Ear pain/Pressure help

[skyworxx]

It was too big. Tubing here only mentions the internal diameter, but I went with a 6mm internal diameter this time rather than 8mm

https://www.bunnings.com.au/pope-6mm-x-5m-clear-vinyl-tubing_p3130561

This one worked flawlessly. No rips and managed to put the whole thing in in just two parts. I used the silicon variety of wd40

Hatch is having still some issues of closing though. It's been pretty cold here, so I'll give the vinyl a bit more time to soften up.

 

[skyworxx]

I checked the tire pressure on my Model Y and it was at 46PSI cold. It must have come with that from the factory. I let out some air and am sitting now at 42. Going to try a run later and see if it is an improvement

 

[Raurele]

I checked the tire pressure on my Model Y and it was at 46PSI cold. It must have come with that from the factory. I let out some air and am sitting now at 42. Going to try a run later and see if it is an improvement

Even Elon says he goes 39. I go 39 cold.

 

[Kirks!]

Thanks for posting this video. I adjusted my MY using this method and it solved my problem! Hope everyone else finds a solution.

Interesting. I wonder if this pressure differential occurs from the Frunk as well.

 

[MY-Y]

Interesting. I wonder if this pressure differential occurs from the Frunk as well.

No, it's the back hatch only.

 

[jerome8283]

Seems so simple for Tesla not to have solved this during the build process. That video is 4 years old!

 

[PecuniaNonOlet]

It takes time adjust the hatch stops. You can't just eyeball it. I think about this too. Maybe if people like you and me stopped buying the cars they would invest the time to get it right.

 

[Noflash]

Ryan Shaw took delivery of a '22 Y on Sept 15th. Several comments about ride and noise in the video. To summarize: Rides like it's on a cloud, there have been 30+ suspension improvements, road noise is much better, there is a cargo cover, but it doesn't help with the rumble at speed, rides like a luxury car should now.

Seems like Tesla has figured out the suspension, but not the hatch/boom issue.

 

[Pianewman]

Early adapter here, Dec. 2020 delivery. Started out with the rumble, buffeting, uncomfortable ears. Adjusted the stops, problem solved.

Now at 32k miles, noticed a hint of rumble, decided to check the hatch stops.

HAHA!!! The right side upper stop wasn't supporting the hatch. Screwed it out (longer) about 3/4 turn, now all 4 stops are contacting, supporting firmly.

Interesting that having only ONE of the hatch stops out of adjustment would allow a small amount of the rumble/buffeting to return. I guess this points out how critical this adjustment is!

 

[mightaswell]

For some of us, no amount of adjustment can fix the discomfort and pain. I have tried adjusting the stops everywhere from a letting a thick envelope slide out, to ripping a single piece of copy paper. I’ve tried rigid stops, and two different sizes of tubing so thick that the hatch would barely close. I’ve packed the entire rear end full of pillows. I’ve tried driving with the hatch cracked open. None of it made any appreciable difference to the point where I could live with the car. I have no idea whether it really is the hatch or not. The only thing that made a noticeable deference was wearing foam ear plugs.

If I am totally honest, I do think that it is worse for me with the AC on full blast. But it is still there with it off.

I borrowed a friend’s identical ‘22 MYP and felt the same thing. My friends, wife, kids, feel nothing. So it is obviously a matter of some hyper sensitivity I have. Interestingly, my brother rode with me on a two hour round trip, and he said he definitely felt building ear pressure.

I traded cars with my wife for a week just to make sure I wasn’t losing my mind, and it took a couple days but eventually it all went away and I felt fine.

I have resigned myself to the fact I will have to sell this car, which is a painful financial hit. I never in my life imagined this could happen.

 

[ElectricAnt54]

For some of us, no amount of adjustment can fix the discomfort and pain. I have tried adjusting the stops everywhere from a letting a thick envelope slide out, to ripping a single piece of copy paper. I’ve tried rigid stops, and two different sizes of tubing so thick that the hatch would barely close. I’ve packed the entire rear end full of pillows. I’ve tried driving with the hatch cracked open. None of it made any appreciable difference to the point where I could live with the car. I have no idea whether it really is the hatch or not. The only thing that made a noticeable deference was wearing foam ear plugs.

If I am totally honest, I do think that it is worse for me with the AC on full blast. But it is still there with it off.

I borrowed a friend’s identical ‘22 MYP and felt the same thing. My friends, wife, kids, feel nothing. So it is obviously a matter of some hyper sensitivity I have. Interestingly, my brother rode with me on a two hour round trip, and he said he definitely felt building ear pressure.

I traded cars with my wife for a week just to make sure I wasn’t losing my mind, and it took a couple days but eventually it all went away and I felt fine.

I have resigned myself to the fact I will have to sell this car, which is a painful financial hit. I never in my life imagined this could happen.

hope you find a good set of wheels in the future.

 

[Happy Hippo]

For some of us, no amount of adjustment can fix the discomfort and pain. I have tried adjusting the stops everywhere from a letting a thick envelope slide out, to ripping a single piece of copy paper. I’ve tried rigid stops, and two different sizes of tubing so thick that the hatch would barely close. I’ve packed the entire rear end full of pillows. I’ve tried driving with the hatch cracked open. None of it made any appreciable difference to the point where I could live with the car. I have no idea whether it really is the hatch or not. The only thing that made a noticeable deference was wearing foam ear plugs.

If I am totally honest, I do think that it is worse for me with the AC on full blast. But it is still there with it off.

I borrowed a friend’s identical ‘22 MYP and felt the same thing. My friends, wife, kids, feel nothing. So it is obviously a matter of some hyper sensitivity I have. Interestingly, my brother rode with me on a two hour round trip, and he said he definitely felt building ear pressure.

I traded cars with my wife for a week just to make sure I wasn’t losing my mind, and it took a couple days but eventually it all went away and I felt fine.

I have resigned myself to the fact I will have to sell this car, which is a painful financial hit. I never in my life imagined this could happen.

Sorry to hear that but I am sure you will get a good price for it now when you sell it. Did you bring it in to Tesla and what did they say?

 

[ilovecoffee]

For some of us, no amount of adjustment can fix the discomfort and pain. I have tried adjusting the stops everywhere from a letting a thick envelope slide out, to ripping a single piece of copy paper. I’ve tried rigid stops, and two different sizes of tubing so thick that the hatch would barely close. I’ve packed the entire rear end full of pillows. I’ve tried driving with the hatch cracked open. None of it made any appreciable difference to the point where I could live with the car. I have no idea whether it really is the hatch or not. The only thing that made a noticeable deference was wearing foam ear plugs.

If I am totally honest, I do think that it is worse for me with the AC on full blast. But it is still there with it off.

I borrowed a friend’s identical ‘22 MYP and felt the same thing. My friends, wife, kids, feel nothing. So it is obviously a matter of some hyper sensitivity I have. Interestingly, my brother rode with me on a two hour round trip, and he said he definitely felt building ear pressure.

I traded cars with my wife for a week just to make sure I wasn’t losing my mind, and it took a couple days but eventually it all went away and I felt fine.

I have resigned myself to the fact I will have to sell this car, which is a painful financial hit. I never in my life imagined this could happen.

Echoing what others have said, I'd urge you to make a service appointment with Tesla first.

If your earlier post about how you have your hatch stops is still relevant... I'm 99% certain those inner hatch stops are wrong wrong wrong! From atlchamp's pictures they looked wayyyy too overextended, something isn't right and I think you calibrated them wrong. Let Tesla service redo it for you and then take it from there.

You need to consider that the goal is to have the hatch sealed properly against the gasket, while at the same time, preventing flex of the door on any bumps. This means your hatch can't be floating above the gasket either. And also, those inner stops, are the least important ones, that should be adjusted only after the outer ones are adjusted, just until they are tight on paper. The ultimate goal is to have all the stops screwed in as far as possible while maintaining rigidity.

Regarding your A/C, some complain about fan speed 4 or 5 being some kind of resonant frequency that bothers them...not sure how to deal with that other than manual fan speeds.

 

[Pianewman]

ilovecoffee: "inner" and "outer" stops. There are 4 stops, right? Do you mean upper and lower? I'm confused.

 

[ilovecoffee]

ilovecoffee: "inner" and "outer" stops. There are 4 stops, right? Do you mean upper and lower? I'm confused.

I thought about saying upper or lower...but that depends on if the door is closed or open LOL. So I am referring along an x axis instead.

Outer are taillights. Inner is...not the taillights.

 

[Pianewman]

Echoing what others have said, I'd urge you to make a service appointment with Tesla first.

If your earlier post about how you have your hatch stops is still relevant... I'm 99% certain those inner hatch stops are wrong wrong wrong! From atlchamp's pictures they looked wayyyy too overextended, something isn't right and I think you calibrated them wrong. Let Tesla service redo it for you and then take it from there.

You need to consider that the goal is to have the hatch sealed properly against the gasket, while at the same time, preventing flex of the door on any bumps. This means your hatch can't be floating above the gasket either. And also, those inner stops, are the least important ones, that should be adjusted only after the outer ones are adjusted, just until they are tight on paper. The ultimate goal is to have all the stops screwed in as far as possible while maintaining rigidity.

Regarding your A/C, some complain about fan speed 4 or 5 being some kind of resonant frequency that bothers them...not sure how to deal with that other than manual fan speeds.

I respectfully disagree. I think the stops farthest from the hinges (you call them "inner stops") need to be adjusted first, as they support the full weight of the hatch, and prevent it from flexing in the middle. I then adjust the ones in the middle (you call them the "outer ones") until they're snug.

As I posted about (YIKES: #929), I recently felt/heard some of the fluttering/buffeting, and discovered the right side higher stop (outer) wasn't snug, while the other three were snug. I lengthened that stop a bit, and the fluttering/buffeting stopped.

Either way, the objective is the same. The hatch needs to engage the rubber gasket, and then be firmly supported by all 4 stops, to keep it from flexing.

 

[ilovecoffee]

I respectfully disagree. I think the stops farthest from the hinges (you call them "inner stops") need to be adjusted first, as they support the full weight of the hatch, and prevent it from flexing in the middle. I then adjust the ones in the middle (you call them the "outer ones") until they're snug.

As I posted about (YIKES: #929), I recently felt/heard some of the fluttering/buffeting, and discovered the right side higher stop (outer) wasn't snug, while the other three were snug. I lengthened that stop a bit, and the fluttering/buffeting stopped.

Either way, the objective is the same. The hatch needs to engage the rubber gasket, and then be firmly supported by all 4 stops, to keep it from flexing.

I don't believe the ones in the middle support the full weight of the hatch to a greater extent. This is why they don't have plastic nuts for support and they are slightly smaller in diameter. They also have some degree of flex as a result of no plastic nut.

In any case I'm not suggesting they are unimportant. I'm suggesting during calibration the upper/middle/inner ones are last. Proper alignment for the furthest apart contact points with plastic nuts requires more work and is a bit trickier. So you simply achieve that first, then continue to increase the length of the middle ones at the same rate until they have firm contact. Then you should be set. Because they are close together, if you start with them fully screwed in (I also marked mine with permanent marker) you can twist them together to see they are roughly in the same position.

Undoubtedly if any are not contacting you will have problems which is what you have illustrated.

 

[JonB65]

I thought about saying upper or lower...but that depends on if the door is closed or open LOL. So I am referring along an x axis instead.

Outer are taillights. Inner is...not the taillights.

I'm still confused. Can we get a picture with some circles around the designated stops?

 

[ilovecoffee]

I'm still confused. Can we get a picture with some circles around the designated stops?

This is how I look at them when referring inner vs outer.

 

[Notch Peak]

Very strange phenomenon for me. Earlier in this thread I commented about how I had some serious ear pain pressure issues when I went for a test drive. Fast forward months later when my car was delivered and I haven't experienced any like I did in the demo once. We've driven up to almost 12,000 feet and back down again pretty fast and was in the car in multiple high altitudes for a long period of time and nada. Such a strange issue.