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dhrivnak
Active Member
That is the only way I am able to get at it. I did see one ranger reach in from above but he must have had smaller hands and I am not a big guy.
I remove it several times a week since it is the only way to get the car to sleep. Remove the pole that holds the lid up on the driver side by removing a metal clip. Then you need a person with a thin arm to remove the orange service plug. Luckily I am such a person
Not sure if pole and lid is the correct words above, but I hope you understand although english is not my native language.
I tried to do this on a Roadster 1.5, it seemed to be a bit harder that with my Roadster 2.0.
Not sure if pole and lid is the correct words above, but I hope you understand although english is not my native language.
I tried to do this on a Roadster 1.5, it seemed to be a bit harder that with my Roadster 2.0.
Just "inhibit" the APS from the service menu to shut down the car. You won't risk breaking that overpriced plug.
Three60guy
Member
Three60guy
Member
Thank you for your informative reply.
I was totally aware this was a Roadster thread but decided to learn something about them. I merely was asking what an abbreviation stood for and what the service menu was. Instead, I was cast to the side and suggested I play in my own sandbox and not yours..
I know that the owners of this forum did not create this for people to treat others like this.
Take care.
Hi,
If you want to see what it is to disable the APS from the service menu, you can have a look at this very informative video
It's explained and showed sometime at the beginning prior the cleaning of the PEM.
I'm sure Wiztecy didn't mean to hurt or be rude. He's just telling you that none of the above ever can apply to the S.
Kind regards
wiztecy
Active Member
?
We get random Model-S owners posting / asking questions in the Roadster forums quite a bit. I believe they see an interesting heading in the latest post link on TMC but fail to look at what car model the thread is actually discussing. We've had people posting incorrect torque specs for the Roadster wheels as well, thinking that this was an S section.... and that can prove to be dangerous if not corrected since the S specs are almost twice as much as the Roadster's. I've never seen you post in the Roadster section (I'm online a bunch) and your sig clearly shows an S so I wanted to make sure you're indeed in the correct forum.
Anyways, APS is auxilary power supply. The service menu is one the tech's use on the VDS screen.
Also if you put "APS" or and "Roadster" in the search bar on TMC you'll get hits that explain this acronym. I try to use the search on forums before posting, it helps keep threads concise and helps you when you do things like searching.
There's nothing wrong with learning something new, that's why we're all here
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Three60guy
Member
Thanks all for taking the time to explain. I apologize for my feedback. I guess my feelings felt a little bruised. I was surprised at the video and the way things all fit together. My guess is a ton of stuff was learned the hard way to get the manufacturing of later models of Tesla to be made. It gives me so much more insight into what Tesla has gone through to get to where they are today. What a wonderful set of minds that had to come together to make Tesla the success it is today.
Thanks again.
Cheers
Thanks again.
Cheers
hi m0rph
nice to see you back here on the roadster forum
So you decided to keep your roadster after all ?
Was the SeC finally able to fix your car ?
cu
Bart
Well, the buyer decided not to wait any longer..
The SeC was involved for a very long time, they installed a new motor but ended up with a car that did exactly what it did the day it broke down: driving yes, charging no. Their next step would have been replacing the PEM at a whopping € 15k. I decided to contact someone here on the forum that offered PEM repair services - they did find a problem, solved it and also did a complete rebuild + extensive test with the PEM so I know that one is OK now. During the PEM repair, Tesla charged me for the work that was previously done, wanted the car out of their service center and they arranged transport to my place. The car came back with my original motor in it (as I requested). Last week I got the PEM back, installed it and also installed the Service Plug. I was welcomed by a new error: BMS Contactor power failure. The procedure would be to take the plug back out, wait a few minutes, place it back, wait another few minutes and bingo, all would have been OK. The thing is, the service plug is now dead stuck in the battery and I can't get it out anymore. I even bought special tools to get it out, nothing worked. So tomorrow, I'm arranging another transport back to Tesla. Worst case scenario would be that they need to take the battery out as the service plug is hard to reach. A new service plug is already arranged, costs € 183 for anyone who's interested. Anyway, I had enough of this story and will let them find the solution now, but it won't involve a PEM swap. It's still unsure if the motor needs replacement or not. It has now been 6 months and 19 days since the car broke down..
It's a horrible story ...
It made me pull the trigger to sell my roadster.
I really advise Tesla to make some Roadster qualified service centres.... Or the cars will be no longer on the road in a couple of year... Wish would be a real pitty.
i hope your story will get a happy ending sooon.
It made me pull the trigger to sell my roadster.
I really advise Tesla to make some Roadster qualified service centres.... Or the cars will be no longer on the road in a couple of year... Wish would be a real pitty.
i hope your story will get a happy ending sooon.
Well, one month later and still not much news. The Service plug was replaced quickly, so that problem is sorted. Then last week, on Monday, I was informed that "special tooling" had arrived from Tilburg, that allows the battery to charge while it's disconnected from the car. They know I'm very much interested in the result of that, and I replied immediately to their e-mail. No response. A week later I resend the e-mail, but received an "out of office". I forward the mail to the general e-mail address of the SeC, no reply. So far, I was not contacted or informed yet about anything. So that adds another 4 weeks to the story since my last post, which made me decide to sell both cars and then go for a boys dream and finally buy my first P.....e car.
Really sorry to hear it's ended up like that @m0rph. There do seem to be similar stories of swamped service centres coming from all over the place. The Roadster tech was good enough to come in on a Saturday to help me out recently, but that came about from me calling the UK Service Director. I understand they are trying to ramp up the service operation now, but it's clearly behind where they need to be. To annoy committed customers and fans is ultimately costing them and the brand dearly.
But you risk locking yourself out from the car...
I just did this and noticed that I was not able to use the keys FOB to unlock the car. So I had to open it from below the door to get inside.
When I went out from the car I forgot to take out the keys so now I cannot get inside again. I am searching for the extra key.
Is this normal Roadster behavour? I ask because I suspect my 12 volts system is not correct.
wiztecy
Active Member
Shutting down the APS among other thinks cuts any voltage to the switchpack and that drives your 12v system such as electric windows, locks, lights, etc.... and yes this is normal behavior.
Just remember to roll the driver's window down before you begin shutting the system down.
Just remember to roll the driver's window down before you begin shutting the system down.
Open and close the charge port door around a dozen times and the APS will turn back on. I can't remember the exact number of times it takes.
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