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Easy and effective low frequency fix

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The PVC caps are a bit too small inside to fit over the OEM rubber extensions without sanding the inside some. I also sanded the flat end some to thin it some. This let me have a little more sleve to grab on the rubber extension. The OEM rubber extensions are set to the minimum height for this mod.
I found these dark gray PVC caps on Amazon; do they look like they would work? Would save a painting step :)

71KB3bq+AOL._SL1000_.jpg
 
The writing on the cap says 1"x2" which is way too large. Personally, I don't like the look if the threaded hole in the middle. When painted, my caps look like they belong there. The painting takes just a minute.
 
I had both buffeting and low frequency resonance and they are not related. You can actually feel the buffeting if you sit in the cargo space and touch the rear glass on hatch while someone else is driving the car over potholes etc. Vinyl tubing fixed that, and no amount of rigid stop adjustments helped before I added vinyl.
The low frequency resonance comes from metal panels and wheel wells and you need to add butyl and maybe foam to fix it (I added both). After fixing both, I took 600 miles trips with no ear pressure or headache. It still not a Lexus and has stiff suspension but I am not committing to coilover yet.
+1

So far, I've had the same experience with regards to pressure buffeting. The only trick that worked was to install clear vinyl tubing (3/16" ID) inside the weather seal. I believe this adds rigidity to the upper part of the hatch near the hinges, which is otherwise unsupported. I tried adjusting the rubber stops, adjusting the latch striker, adding rigid stops, and nothing helped with the buffeting. The vinyl tubing works. I've now put about 500 miles on the car since installing the tubing, and the buffeting is gone, along with the ear discomfort.

I'm convinced the boominess is slightly reduced as a result of this fix. It's still present, but no longer at the level where I want to sell the car. I think the pressure buffeting exacerbates the booming, so solving that is a good first step. I've got 10 sheets of Resonix and some foam lining sitting in my garage waiting to be installed, but I'm less inclined to continue this experiment since my discomfort level has decreased considerably since installing the tubing.

(Also, somewhat related: switching to 19" Geminis/Continentals from the original 21" Uberturbine/Pirelli combo did not solve either issue. However, my consumption went down 14%, steering effort is lighter, and the car is less "crashy" over bad roads, so that was a win in other areas!)
 
+1

So far, I've had the same experience with regards to pressure buffeting. The only trick that worked was to install clear vinyl tubing (3/16" ID) inside the weather seal. I believe this adds rigidity to the upper part of the hatch near the hinges, which is otherwise unsupported. I tried adjusting the rubber stops, adjusting the latch striker, adding rigid stops, and nothing helped with the buffeting. The vinyl tubing works. I've now put about 500 miles on the car since installing the tubing, and the buffeting is gone, along with the ear discomfort.

I'm convinced the boominess is slightly reduced as a result of this fix. It's still present, but no longer at the level where I want to sell the car. I think the pressure buffeting exacerbates the booming, so solving that is a good first step. I've got 10 sheets of Resonix and some foam lining sitting in my garage waiting to be installed, but I'm less inclined to continue this experiment since my discomfort level has decreased considerably since installing the tubing.

(Also, somewhat related: switching to 19" Geminis/Continentals from the original 21" Uberturbine/Pirelli combo did not solve either issue. However, my consumption went down 14%, steering effort is lighter, and the car is less "crashy" over bad roads, so that was a win in other areas!)
Install the sound deadening material if you have time, at least in the rear wheel well area. It made my drive actually enjoyable.
 
Could you point me to the thread that describes this material and its installation please?
That’s the tubing idea. A few posts up in that thread describes the butyl idea.
 
I have solved the low frequency issue with my car. I had a 41 Hz standing wave that would come and go. It wasn't good. If the hatch bumpers are loose, a crazy subsonic buffeting occurs. I'm talking about the annoying rumble that is still there when the bumpers are properly adjusted.

To keep it brief, I placed my phone running the "spectroid" spectrum analyzer on my dash. I then went aound my car, thumping different spots with my hand to see which area(s) caused a 41 Hz resonance. Bottom line, pretty much all of the low frequency is from the hatch. Center glass and center of the metal has resonances at 47 and 50 Hz. The corners where the upper bumpers hit are the 41 Hz culprit.

I made a temporary rigid stop from wood and Epoxy putty to verify that the harmonic could be eliminated, and it can. I then spent a whopping $1.98 on two PVC plumbing pieces, my Epoxy putty, and flat black spray paint for a permanent fix. With the temporary blocks, I knew the exact height needed. I used my sander to shorten the PVC pieces to make the original squishy rubber bumpers ridged at the right length.

You can see the 41 Hz honor- look at read peak line when I thumped the hatch above where the upper bumpers were mounted.

View attachment 692156
Making the temporary rigid stops.
View attachment 692157
Resulting temporary stops.
View attachment 692158
OEM stops with shortened PVC caps, sanded to same length as wood/Epoxy stops. Note, these are shorter than I had my OEM stops set to. These caps had to be hollowed out a little to fit over the rubber stops. Friction probably would have held them on, but I put a bit of Epoxy putty to hold them to the plastic turn collar just to be sure.
View attachment 692159



View attachment 692161
Final product - painted stops are rigid and look OEM. The foam board I'm holding was put inside the hatch above the stops. I don't think this was needed. The bottom stops still need to be adjusted to hit.View attachment 692164
Irritating 41 Hz rumble before this fix is shown above.
View attachment 692166
The 41 Hz is GONE. Every now and then, it is back for a couple of seconds, but 99% of the time, it's gone.

The 47 and 50 Hz sounds are not annoying to me. If I feel inspired, I may make rigid stops for the bottom two.

Bottom line... after careful analysis, I have made my car much more enjoyable for very little cost.
Do you just install one side at a time? Sand it to the right size, with no stop touching at all on the other side, and then repeat procedure on the other side? Or are you doing more of a back and forth process on both sides at the same time?

I am having brutal ear pain and headaches in my one week old MYP. I don’t hear any booming or buffeting really, but it is undeniably caused by the car. Planning to try these rigid stops, praying it helps even a little. I tried quickly adjusting the rubber stops last night (no paper test though) and didn’t really notice much difference this morning.
 
Do you just install one side at a time? Sand it to the right size, with no stop touching at all on the other side, and then repeat procedure on the other side? Or are you doing more of a back and forth process on both sides at the same time?

I am having brutal ear pain and headaches in my one week old MYP. I don’t hear any booming or buffeting really, but it is undeniably caused by the car. Planning to try these rigid stops, praying it helps even a little. I tried quickly adjusting the rubber stops last night (no paper test though) and didn’t really notice much difference this morning.
I did them both at the same time, and they were not the same length. With your issue, it is probably made much better by immediately adjusting the factory stops so it is hard to pull out a piece of paper from each one. The rigid stops fix the ~43 Hz problem. I found headaches were caused by subsonic buffetting, which can be fixed with a 5 minute factory stop adjustment. (I couldn't stand my car until I made that adjustment!)
 
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I did them both at the same time, and they were not the same length. With your issue, it is probably made much better by immediately adjusting the factory stops so it is hard to pull out a piece of paper from each one. The rigid stops fix the ~43 Hz problem. I found headaches were caused by subsonic buffetting, which can be fixed with a 5 minute factory stop adjustment. (I couldn't stand my car until I made that adjustment!)
Can you explain the process
 
Wanted to bump this thread. Thanking everyone who has worked through this issue.

1 week old MYP, 2023 model. I didn’t notice anything within the first couple days and first 100-150 miles. As a matter of fact I thought at highway speeds the car was possibly the quietest car I had driven. They have come a long way since the debut 2020 models. The new suspension is still responsive and quick but also smoother and less jarring than the three different demo MYPs I test drove over the years, while making my decision.

This is a detail I want to add.

I noticed this phenomenon for the first time on my drive home from getting my windows tinted.


It was immediately on this drive that I noticed the low hz pressure/ subsonic booming over uneven pavement. Especially in SoCal over bumpy parts of highways or grated concrete expansion joints.

Today on slightly washboarded roads in other parts of the region, it was almost unbearable to me.

Can anyone verify this happens on non tinted Model Ys? If so could you specify what has been tinted and what hasn’t? For me I used the Xpel XR plus, which I know is a 1.5-2mm high end, extremely durable tint. On all glass including clear on windshield. But nothing on the roof glass.

I’m wondering what sort of effect this is having on the flex/ resonance of the back glass of the car, and how that could be influencing resonance throughout the cabin.

I am of course early on this, and it could be chalked up to sheer timing, but I definitely wanted to bring this up as I noticed it IMMEDIATELY on that drive home.

I don’t want to jump the gun and go ask them to remove the $$$ tint on the car, maybe just the rear windows. But out of all things, that was the only thing I could point to, that changed in my car before this occurred.

One more thought. The first time I opened my hatch on delivery, it clicked at the top in an odd way. After the first 2-3 closes, it never did it again. Does make me think there is an underlying alignment issue and maybe the car was destined to develop the booming with or without tinting.
 
I can see how tint would make the car a bit quieter since it's softer (more sound absorbent) than glass. I don't see how it would make it any louder. I certainly wouldn't pull it off.

My best guess is that while messing with your hatch during the job they somehow changed one or more of your stops.

Adjust them to all be equally firm as the first step. For an hour and a couple of dollars, you could make the rigid stops I described in the first post in this thread. No need to scrap a nice tint job.
 
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Wanted to bump this thread. Thanking everyone who has worked through this issue.

1 week old MYP, 2023 model. I didn’t notice anything within the first couple days and first 100-150 miles. As a matter of fact I thought at highway speeds the car was possibly the quietest car I had driven. They have come a long way since the debut 2020 models. The new suspension is still responsive and quick but also smoother and less jarring than the three different demo MYPs I test drove over the years, while making my decision.

This is a detail I want to add.

I noticed this phenomenon for the first time on my drive home from getting my windows tinted.


It was immediately on this drive that I noticed the low hz pressure/ subsonic booming over uneven pavement. Especially in SoCal over bumpy parts of highways or grated concrete expansion joints.

Today on slightly washboarded roads in other parts of the region, it was almost unbearable to me.

Can anyone verify this happens on non tinted Model Ys? If so could you specify what has been tinted and what hasn’t? For me I used the Xpel XR plus, which I know is a 1.5-2mm high end, extremely durable tint. On all glass including clear on windshield. But nothing on the roof glass.

I’m wondering what sort of effect this is having on the flex/ resonance of the back glass of the car, and how that could be influencing resonance throughout the cabin.

I am of course early on this, and it could be chalked up to sheer timing, but I definitely wanted to bring this up as I noticed it IMMEDIATELY on that drive home.

I don’t want to jump the gun and go ask them to remove the $$$ tint on the car, maybe just the rear windows. But out of all things, that was the only thing I could point to, that changed in my car before this occurred.

One more thought. The first time I opened my hatch on delivery, it clicked at the top in an odd way. After the first 2-3 closes, it never did it again. Does make me think there is an underlying alignment issue and maybe the car was destined to develop the booming with or without tinting.
Did you try recalibrating your windows? They could have pushed down on them when installing tint causing their position to change. I'd do that first, although my instinct tells me that shouldn't cause subsonic noise or you'd hear wind at least.


 
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