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Enhanced Anti-theft add-on from Tesla

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Could you please elaborate?

Can we not install a spliter for the power there?

More to the point, I'm not that concerned with their policy is but I want to continue to be able to draw power for my dashcam from where it current gets power near the microphone area. Can someone explain how easy it is to have a splitter so that the security option can be added while retaining power to the dash cam without extra wiring issues?

I assume the security option uses very little power?

This will be an important issue for folks installing third-party or non-original upgrades. I have a 4-channel Blackvue 750 setup, which uses T-Tap connectors, which snap over the 12V wiring, penetrating the insulation to provide a connection (a "vampire tap," which leaves the cable and its connector otherwise intact). I am also preparing to install the new sun visors, which include LED-illuminated vanity mirrors, and hope to tap into the same power source for those. I'd like to get the Enhanced Anti-Theft Upgrade as well, which would plug into the connector, leaving me with three systems running off of the same power source. I am hopeful that the Service Center would choose to tolerate/overlook the use of T-Taps for the dashcam and visors. The concern then shifts to the wiring and fuse for this circuit, to ensure that the installed systems are not drawing too much current.

(1) My Blackvue is spliced into the 12V cable, so that one cable is feeding both the new Enhanced Anti-Theft system and my Blackvue.
(2) The microphone speakers are position differently in this version.
(3) For some reason there is now a new connector just idle sitting there. I didn't see this before. I have a 2017 Sept build Model S P100D.

Check out these detailed pictures I just snapped. One showing the new part, one zoomed into the splice for my Blackvue, one showing the new microphone placement (look carefully for the different shade in the outside of the grill at the angels, and the last image is of that new connector which I haven't seen before, so no idea what this is for...
 
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This will be an important issue for folks installing third-party or non-original upgrades. I have a 4-channel Blackvue 750 setup, which uses T-Tap connectors, which snap over the 12V wiring, penetrating the insulation to provide a connection (a "vampire tap," which leaves the cable and its connector otherwise intact). I am also preparing to install the new sun visors, which include LED-illuminated vanity mirrors, and hope to tap into the same power source for those. I'd like to get the Enhanced Anti-Theft Upgrade as well, which would plug into the connector, leaving me with three systems running off of the same power source. I am hopeful that the Service Center would choose to tolerate/overlook the use of T-Taps for the dashcam and visors. The concern then shifts to the wiring and fuse for this circuit, to ensure that the installed systems are not drawing too much current.

I consider dash cams to be absolutely essential and I bet many get power for their dash cams near the microphone area so hopefully they have already figured out a way to do the installation of the security package leaving power for the dash cam intact.
 
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Phil, who is "they"? If you mean Tesla, I would not count on it. And I doubt they even make a suggestion. They do not help with any grey market/third party accessories, in case you didn't already know that. That's just the way it is.
 
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I consider dash cams to be absolutely essential and I bet many get power for their dash cams near the microphone area so hopefully they have already figured out a way to do the installation of the security package leaving power for the dash cam intact.

That the kicker. It's essential to you, and not to them and they don't care. That's why it's up to you to have wired the Blackvue correctly in order to leave the connector for the Enhanced Anti-theft device. If you see the images I uploaded, I did just that. I spliced the Blackvue into the 12V, leaving the connector in tact last year, and it just happened to be the right move, as the connector was used for the Enhanced Anti-Theft device. Now if you had weird your Blackvue directly into the connector, then you're going to have an issue as they'll just simply removed that connection, plug in the Enhanced Anti-Theft device and let you decide on your own how to re-wire in the Blackvue.

Take a look at my image above to see a zoomed in picture I took of the cable splice for my Blackvue and the actual connector in use for the Enhanced Anti-Theft device.

Source = img_4631-jpg.359263
 
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That the kicker. It's essential to you, and not to them and they don't care. That's why it's up to you to have wired the Blackvue correctly in order to leave the connector for the Enhanced Anti-theft device. If you see the images I uploaded, I did just that. I spliced the Blackvue into the 12V, leaving the connector in fact last year, and it just happened to be the right move, as the connector was used for the Enhanced Anti-Theft device. Now if you had weird your Blackvue directly into the connector, then you're going to have issued as they'll just simply removed that connection, plug in the Enhanced Anti-Theft device and let you decide on your own how to re-write in the Blackvue.

Take a look at my image above to see a zoomed in picture I took of the cable splice for my Blackvue and the actual connector in use for the Enhanced Anti-Theft device.

Source = img_4631-jpg.359263

That was super smart if you to leave that connector available.

Rather than splice the cable though, is there an option to install a splitter plug there so you can then use one to connect the Blackevue leaving the other splitter connection available for the anti theft?
 
That was super smart if you to leave that connector available.

Rather than splice the cable, is there an option to install a splitter plug there so you can then use one to connect the Blackevue leaving the other splitter connection available for the anti theft?

Sure, if you can find or make one, I don't see why not. I highly doubt that Tesla will have one.

I left the connector in tact because, (1) I couldn't find a splitter, (2) It was easier to just splice into the 12V directly for the Blackvue, (3) There was a reason why Tesla left the connector there, so I suspect that it might come in handy in the future for some sort of upgrade. I had no idea it was for an enhanced Anti-theft security upgrade.

Now the more interesting question is what is that new connector that I found after the Enhanced Anti-theft was installed? I have no idea.

Source = img_4632-jpg.359262
 
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That was super smart if you to leave that connector available.

Rather than splice the cable though, is there an option to install a splitter plug there so you can then use one to connect the Blackevue leaving the other splitter connection available for the anti theft?

Posi-Taps are really nice. They pierce the insulation with a tiny needle, and the insulation is flexible enough to seal the hole back up when they're removed.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BLZWQ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Is it possible that the new connector available after the alarm installation is a split of the old connector? The new connector is 3 conductor but I can’t tell if it is the same type of connector and the same number of wires as the original connector. If the new connector is the same type as the original connector, perhaps one of the 3 wires in it is 12 volt and the dashcam can be plugged into it?

Sure, if you can find or make one, I don't see why not. I highly doubt that Tesla will have one.

I left the connector in tact because, (1) I couldn't find a splitter, (2) It was easier to just splice into the 12V directly for the Blackvue, (3) There was a reason why Tesla left the connector there, so I suspect that it might come in handy in the future for some sort of upgrade. I had no idea it was for an enhanced Anti-theft security upgrade.

Now the more interesting question is what is that new connector that I found after the Enhanced Anti-theft was installed? I have no idea.

Source = img_4632-jpg.359262
 
View attachment 359264
(3) For some reason there is now a new connector just idle sitting there. I didn't see this before. I have a 2017 Sept build Model S P100D.
Now the more interesting question is what is that new connector that I found after the Enhanced Anti-theft was installed? I have no idea.
Is it possible that the new connector available after the alarm installation is a split of the old connector?
It sure looks to me that you accidentally disconnected the driver's side ultrasonic sensor when you pulled the grille down. That plug is meant to connect to that connector on the left, just as the right is connected. Checkout the pic of the EU grille with both plugs being plugged into both connectors.

(or maybe the service center forgot to plug it in...)
 
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I am still hoping for someone with more in-depth knowledge to work out why this cannot be installed on cars pre-September 16, 2015. which also has this connector available so would seemingly should also work with them?

But I would assume we can't just go buy this part and install it ourselves... and that Tesla has to activate it in the options

So those of us that really want it... we just can't go retrofit it ourselves even if we dont need their support
 
It sure looks to me that you accidentally disconnected the driver's side ultrasonic sensor when you pulled the grille down. That plug is meant to connect to that connector on the left, just as the right is connected. Checkout the pic of the EU grille with both plugs being plugged into both connectors.

(or maybe the service center forgot to plug it in...)

You know what. You're 100% correct. That is the ultrasonic plug. I'm guessing there isn't enough slack and when I removed the piece it may have come out, or maybe it was put in correctly. Great catch!

I'll make sure to put it back in tonight when I get home.

That solves the "unknown" cable...
 
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You know what. You're 100% correct. That is the ultrasonic plug. I'm guessing there isn't enough slack and when I removed the piece it may have come out, or maybe it was put in correctly. Great catch!

I'll make sure to put it back in tonight when I get home.

That solves the "unknown" cable...

See, aren't you glad you posted those photos? :p
 
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Your DIY cred is enormous here, @Akikiki, so it is clear that this posting is important, but might I ask that you provide a detailed description of what we are seeing? This thread has discussed a number of connectors and harnesses for a number of products/projects for a number of different iterations of Model S, and some interested/motivated readers have not yet had the opportunity to dive into the wiring of their own vehicles, so you will understand that more than a few of us will be confused by what we are seeing. My thanks in advance for further clarification, and for your continuing contributions to multiple threads on the TMC forum!
 
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Thank you berkeley_ecar. That was very generous thought. I guess I overstepped my enthusiasm a bit assuming its self explanatory. :)
The black connector is the OEM connector in the car that has been unused or by Tesla owners - used for dash cam power. (The black connector unattached is to simulate the car.) The blue connector is the OEM connector that matches the black connector - the mate. The black connector on this splitter is the same OEM connector on the car for the anti-theft device.

The black (gnd) and red (12v) wires coming from the main three wire connection will provide power and ground to a dash cam such as the Blackvue. The black and red pigtail is simply the hookup that I like to use because it allows me to gracefully connect/disconnect without soldering or cutting wires. (The T-connectors could be opened and directly connect the dash cam power cable.) So you could take the loose pigtail and attach it (solder and shrink wrap) to the power cable used on the dash cam. Then after the anti-theft device is installed and working, just unplug it, plug the splitter in, and plug in the pigtail/power cable for the dash cam and bingo, anti-thief and dash cam powered together.

We need only two wires for the dash cam. But I suspect the anti-theft device needs power, ground and signal wire, (the center wire) to communicate with the car, hence three wires for the other. I wanted to demonstrate that we could make the power splitter and a couple versions that several people had been talking about in this thread.