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BTW If I use 3*16A rated Tesla mobile charger for 22 or more amps. So it look like overcurrent.
I don't worry about copper wire it can handle more than 32A, also I suggest we can determinate heating before it burn.
I worry about Tesla mobile chatger contactor. Do some one know what is the type of contactor come in Tesla mobile charder?
Do we have come pictures inside 3 phase Europian mobile charder?
I don't worry about copper wire it can handle more than 32A, also I suggest we can determinate heating before it burn.
I worry about Tesla mobile chatger contactor. Do some one know what is the type of contactor come in Tesla mobile charder?
Do we have come pictures inside 3 phase Europian mobile charder?
amiral_sub
Member
Hi, my UMC blinks red 3 times.
I measured the schuko adapter:
Resistor between 1 (Ground) and 6 ("Pilot"): 100kΩ.
How can I found the problem?
I measured the schuko adapter:
Resistor between 1 (Ground) and 6 ("Pilot"): 100kΩ.
How can I found the problem?
.jg.
Member
amiral_sub
Member
.jg.
Member
It is worth resetting and power-cycling the UMC. Similarly, try resetting the car and if that doesn't help, try a power down on the car and leave it off for 10 minutes or so before trying again. I am not sure whether the contactor would be in the UMC or the car. It may be worth trying a different UMC on your and/or a different car on your UMC.
amiral_sub
Member
Hmmmm turns out it's surprisingly difficult to find the specs on the female contact pins in the adapters? Anyone have any info on them or where to source them? Closest i can find is Deutsches DT connector pins. I *think* the L lines are 4mm ø, N is 3mm and the pilot pin is either 2mm or 1.6mm? They also appear to be silver plated copper construction... Sensible considering the current draw
Returning to ancient subject,
my 2013 car came with UMC that only could charge with two phases. Also 230V charging used only 66% speed.. I opened it up and sure enough, there was one relay melted and also some PCB heat damage. I could get it working for a while with all three phases, but quickly it started blinking GFCI fail. After closer inspection, I could see some melt damage on the GFCI measurement coil also. I decided to discard this one, as I felt I couldn't trust it even if it "worked".
However, I got another broken UMC for free from a fellow Tesla owner. It was from a 2014 car. This one is slightly different design! LEDs are not visible, instead they shine through the gray plastic. This one had water damage inside, and also the schuko adapter was streched so that ground wire didn't make proper contact. I thought that I'd use the schuko adapter from my other UMC, but I noticed they are differently wired!
The old one (without cable) has line connected to all L1+L2+L3. The newer one (with cable) only connects L1! There's no pin in L2 and L3. But mysteriously, BOTH of these have 100k resistor! Wouldn't you think that if "single phase" version uses 13A from L1, the "three phase" version would take 13A from each L1+L2+L3, thus blowing a fuse?
After some consideration I figured that Tesla can't have been so stupid to allow this, surely the connectors would be different so you couldn't even connect them wrongly. So I decided to give it a go. I have online kwh meter on my house, so I could watch from my phone how much power it is using.
And sure enough, it worked just fine with the older L1+L2+L3 adapter.
I also fixed the cable version, changed a new schuko plug. It works too, taking exact same amount of power from the grid. But I assume there is a difference how on-board chargers are used, one vs all three?
BTW you can quite cleanly open the UMC with a dremel. The rubbery protection thing can be removed without breaking it, then just dremel the plastic case open. Below you can see how I'm gluing the 2014 UMC back, rubber thingy waiting to be pulled over after glue has dried. Below is the cover of 2013 UMC, showing the difference in leds..
my 2013 car came with UMC that only could charge with two phases. Also 230V charging used only 66% speed.. I opened it up and sure enough, there was one relay melted and also some PCB heat damage. I could get it working for a while with all three phases, but quickly it started blinking GFCI fail. After closer inspection, I could see some melt damage on the GFCI measurement coil also. I decided to discard this one, as I felt I couldn't trust it even if it "worked".
However, I got another broken UMC for free from a fellow Tesla owner. It was from a 2014 car. This one is slightly different design! LEDs are not visible, instead they shine through the gray plastic. This one had water damage inside, and also the schuko adapter was streched so that ground wire didn't make proper contact. I thought that I'd use the schuko adapter from my other UMC, but I noticed they are differently wired!
The old one (without cable) has line connected to all L1+L2+L3. The newer one (with cable) only connects L1! There's no pin in L2 and L3. But mysteriously, BOTH of these have 100k resistor! Wouldn't you think that if "single phase" version uses 13A from L1, the "three phase" version would take 13A from each L1+L2+L3, thus blowing a fuse?
After some consideration I figured that Tesla can't have been so stupid to allow this, surely the connectors would be different so you couldn't even connect them wrongly. So I decided to give it a go. I have online kwh meter on my house, so I could watch from my phone how much power it is using.
And sure enough, it worked just fine with the older L1+L2+L3 adapter.I also fixed the cable version, changed a new schuko plug. It works too, taking exact same amount of power from the grid. But I assume there is a difference how on-board chargers are used, one vs all three?
BTW you can quite cleanly open the UMC with a dremel. The rubbery protection thing can be removed without breaking it, then just dremel the plastic case open. Below you can see how I'm gluing the 2014 UMC back, rubber thingy waiting to be pulled over after glue has dried. Below is the cover of 2013 UMC, showing the difference in leds..
В моем переделанном UMC из US стоял Резистор на 9 Ком, что позволял заряжать машину 40а одна фаза.
Hello. Can you give us some detail about that? I have an gen1 UMC with the shucko adaptar, but wanted to make it up to 32A monofase.thanks
By the way, I am from Portugal
Hi!Hello. Can you give us some detail about that? I have an gen1 UMC with the shucko adaptar, but wanted to make it up to 32A monofase.thanks
By the way, I am from Portugal
Ups! long time without checking this post, but let me don't loose the opportunity to asnwer.
I attach some pictures about the adaptor I build "home made".
I used a plastic glue gun to create a frame with additional components and to proctect any undesired electric contact. Also you could see the 20kOhms resistor covered by the plastic
I tested for a few hours and it works without overheating and any other issue.
Let me know if you need further information.
Regards and enjoy your electric style of life
Jordi
Here is Spain I don't know if it's still available. Any way, you can't adapt the schuko adapter to 32A because the resistor, it isn't only a physical change. It should be fully replaced by your homemade adaptor with the proper specifications or getting the official from Tesla.
At least in ebay you can find them.
That one is in Ukraine!
"Gen2" adapters are more common but it does not fit the Gen1 UMC.
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That one is in Ukraine!
"Gen2" adapters are more common but it does not fit the Gen1 UMC.
Great thread!
Do you think it is possible to modify an existing adaptor as follows:
- Replace the internal resistor (or disable the pilot wire and divert it outside the adaptor)
- Fit a variable resistor piloted by a tiny computer
- Manage the charging amps with the tiny computer
My goal is to control the charging amps by a computer without using an internet connexion (due to being without 4G signal). I thought of using BLE, CAN bus and now the mobile charger.
I guess I could always cut open a mobile charger and fit a variable resistor in there, but I'm not sure how to close it again.
My big question is: Will the mobile connector react to a varying resistance during charging? What else can I do to achieve this goal?
Do you think it is possible to modify an existing adaptor as follows:
- Replace the internal resistor (or disable the pilot wire and divert it outside the adaptor)
- Fit a variable resistor piloted by a tiny computer
- Manage the charging amps with the tiny computer
My goal is to control the charging amps by a computer without using an internet connexion (due to being without 4G signal). I thought of using BLE, CAN bus and now the mobile charger.
I guess I could always cut open a mobile charger and fit a variable resistor in there, but I'm not sure how to close it again.
My big question is: Will the mobile connector react to a varying resistance during charging? What else can I do to achieve this goal?
I suggest you forget mobile connector and buy a complete EV charging station with programmable current. There are versions with wifi, bluetooth or rs485 modbus connectivity. I use "OpenEVSE" myself. When connected to local LAN, it can vary it's output based on a MQTT data stream.. Pretty awesome.
Or if you like tinkering, you can cut the cable between mobile charger and the car, and then add your own circuitry to create the "pilot" signal that instructs car how much current it can take. It's not a simple resistor coding, but instead uses PWM so PWM duty cycle tells the c urrent. More information here:
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