BTW If I use 3*16A rated Tesla mobile charger for 22 or more amps. So it look like overcurrent. I don't worry about copper wire it can handle more than 32A, also I suggest we can determinate heating before it burn. I worry about Tesla mobile chatger contactor. Do some one know what is the type of contactor come in Tesla mobile charder? Do we have come pictures inside 3 phase Europian mobile charder?
I found some info about Tesla mobile charger. So the over current is not ok for by contact and contractor reason. The knife contact is not strong enough for overcurrent
Hi, my UMC blinks red 3 times. I measured the schuko adapter: Resistor between 1 (Ground) and 6 ("Pilot"): 100kΩ. How can I found the problem?
It is worth resetting and power-cycling the UMC. Similarly, try resetting the car and if that doesn't help, try a power down on the car and leave it off for 10 minutes or so before trying again. I am not sure whether the contactor would be in the UMC or the car. It may be worth trying a different UMC on your and/or a different car on your UMC.
Thanks a lot guys for your contribution. I've charged up to 32A with my UMC and a homemade accesory following your instructions last night and I've posted a reference to this thread in our local Spanish tesla forum with a summary. Jordi
Hmmmm turns out it's surprisingly difficult to find the specs on the female contact pins in the adapters? Anyone have any info on them or where to source them? Closest i can find is Deutsches DT connector pins. I *think* the L lines are 4mm ø, N is 3mm and the pilot pin is either 2mm or 1.6mm? They also appear to be silver plated copper construction... Sensible considering the current draw
Returning to ancient subject, my 2013 car came with UMC that only could charge with two phases. Also 230V charging used only 66% speed.. I opened it up and sure enough, there was one relay melted and also some PCB heat damage. I could get it working for a while with all three phases, but quickly it started blinking GFCI fail. After closer inspection, I could see some melt damage on the GFCI measurement coil also. I decided to discard this one, as I felt I couldn't trust it even if it "worked". However, I got another broken UMC for free from a fellow Tesla owner. It was from a 2014 car. This one is slightly different design! LEDs are not visible, instead they shine through the gray plastic. This one had water damage inside, and also the schuko adapter was streched so that ground wire didn't make proper contact. I thought that I'd use the schuko adapter from my other UMC, but I noticed they are differently wired! The old one (without cable) has line connected to all L1+L2+L3. The newer one (with cable) only connects L1! There's no pin in L2 and L3. But mysteriously, BOTH of these have 100k resistor! Wouldn't you think that if "single phase" version uses 13A from L1, the "three phase" version would take 13A from each L1+L2+L3, thus blowing a fuse? After some consideration I figured that Tesla can't have been so stupid to allow this, surely the connectors would be different so you couldn't even connect them wrongly. So I decided to give it a go. I have online kwh meter on my house, so I could watch from my phone how much power it is using. And sure enough, it worked just fine with the older L1+L2+L3 adapter. I also fixed the cable version, changed a new schuko plug. It works too, taking exact same amount of power from the grid. But I assume there is a difference how on-board chargers are used, one vs all three? BTW you can quite cleanly open the UMC with a dremel. The rubbery protection thing can be removed without breaking it, then just dremel the plastic case open. Below you can see how I'm gluing the 2014 UMC back, rubber thingy waiting to be pulled over after glue has dried. Below is the cover of 2013 UMC, showing the difference in leds..