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EV Offer frunk not unlatching *SOLVED*

Just relaying my experience in case it helps someone else.

I installed the EV Offer auto-frunk on my '21 MYLR5 last August, and it worked perfectly up until about a week ago. I went to open it to show off to some coworkers, and I heard the OEM latch actuate and saw the arms try to lift the frunk, but it wouldn't open. I tried pushing down on it and pulling up on it when actuating, but nothing worked. Tried pulling on the manual release, but the cable didn't budge.

Tesla mobile service came out and they tried to use one of their airbags to open it, but it wouldn't budge. He tried messing with it for a good 30-45 min before he gave up and made me an appointment to bring it into an SC where they could look at it closer.

I engaged EV Offer support (probably what I should have done first) and they sent a video of how to use two pliers to get more leverage when pulling the manual release cable. This method did give me more leverage.....to the point that the cable snapped. They then suggested I cut the cable between the latch motor and the latch by going through the wheel well. After removing the wheel and the plastic wheel well liner, I was able to snake my arm in, find the latch motor, and very carefully cut the cable (I wasn't thrilled about using cutters in such a small area with lots of wires around). I tried to open the frunk again, and it popped right up.

So now the frunk will open and close itself, but I have to manually latch it. Support said they'll send me a new motor. All things considered it could have been a lot worse, but this was my second positive experience with EV Offer support.
 
There are two wires that are behind the cover for the front tow-hook (the big circle on the driver side of the front bumper). They recommend zip-tying the pull cable to these wires so that you can access it without popping the frunk. That'd be the first place I'd check. If it's not there then you'll either have to take the frunk tub out and look (assuming you can open the frunk) or ask whoever installed it for you where they put the cable.

If all else fails, you may be able to take the driver wheel and wheel well liner and see/feel where the cable goes from the latch motor.
 
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There are two wires that are behind the cover for the front tow-hook (the big circle on the driver side of the front bumper). They recommend zip-tying the pull cable to these wires so that you can access it without popping the frunk. That'd be the first place I'd check. If it's not there then you'll either have to take the frunk tub out and look (assuming you can open the frunk) or ask whoever installed it for you where they put the cable.

If all else fails, you may be able to take the driver wheel and wheel well liner and see/feel where the cable goes from the latch motor.
I did the wheel well cover and reached for the latch motor and I opened the motor and as soon as I did that the frunk popped open. Now I am dealing with Henshaw to get a replacement.
 
Is the cable you cut from the motor to the latch the long steel cable that is under tension, or was it an electrical one?

I have the same product and I am always concerned about it not opening - if this works, I might open it and position the cable-to-cut closer to the wheel base so i can access it in case of emergency ( and the front loop snaps, breaks, or doesn't work ).
 
Is the cable you cut from the motor to the latch the long steel cable that is under tension, or was it an electrical one?

I have the same product and I am always concerned about it not opening - if this works, I might open it and position the cable-to-cut closer to the wheel base so i can access it in case of emergency ( and the front loop snaps, breaks, or doesn't work ).
Yes, the one from the motor to the latch. At first I also wasn't sure if they wanted me to cut the cable or the wires and asked them to clarify.

If you have the time/energy, I agree it's a good idea to route the cable near the wheel well so that you're sure you can reach it.
 
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