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Everlasting pursuit of a dashboard rattle

Discussion in 'Model S' started by selfbp, Nov 14, 2019.

  1. selfbp

    selfbp Member

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    Location:
    East, TN
    After the Service center failed me 2 times, I’ve taken it into my own hands to fix this awful noise. My hands hurt, it’s been too cold outside, my car is in pieces, and I haven’t found the source yet. It’s further in the dash but I’m making progress! FE3D0198-6F01-40E3-BBFB-E1BA0B80B79B.jpeg F4C9D2B9-33E2-446B-BC59-5EE32079A983.jpeg
     
    • Love x 3
    • Like x 2
  2. Gixx1300R

    Gixx1300R Member

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    Mine was a clicking sound, it was the actuator doors for the A/C
     
  3. NoMoGas

    NoMoGas Supporting Member

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    My clicking noise is coming from the sunroof area... can't find it to save my arse.
     
  4. NoMoGas

    NoMoGas Supporting Member

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    You must tell us when u find it.
     
  5. demundus

    demundus Active Member

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    I admire your persistence, but good luck getting that long trim piece back on without bending or scratching it :(
     
  6. selfbp

    selfbp Member

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    I’ve been watching the dang thing with every move! Taken me 2 days of fiddling with it to get this far!
     
  7. NoMoGas

    NoMoGas Supporting Member

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    You sir, are a crazy person. :p
     
  8. whitex

    whitex Well-Known Member

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    I've been driving Teslas for a while. In the "old days" service would kindly try to fix any reproducible noises, but I learned after a while that most fixed were temporary. I also learned that I can do it myself with some VHB, foam, rubber seals, etc, and it's less hassle than making an appointment, dropping off the car, then dropping off the loaner, etc. To love you Tesla is to learn to love its noises, or learn how to fix them.
     
    • Like x 2
  9. NoMoGas

    NoMoGas Supporting Member

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    Aghhh but what did you find? I wonder if there are "common creaks"?
     
  10. DCEV

    DCEV Member

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    On the bright side you now have a Cyber Model S!
     
    • Funny x 1
  11. selfbp

    selfbp Member

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    Honestly everything is pretty secured in the dash like harnesses and such. They did a good job on my 2017 not too sure about any earlier cars.

    I’m about to remove the top skeleton of the support to check deeper and I’ll see what else I’ll find!
     
  12. docl

    docl Member

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    Location:
    Denmark
    What car do you have?
    Is it a low volume, slightly metallic sound that occurs every time you drive over slightly uneven surfaces?

    I have a TMS 100D from December 2017,
    and have an annoying sound like the one described above. It sounds like it comes deep from the middle, or a little right to the middle, of the dashboard.
    Tesla spent two weeks trying to solve it, and in the end gave up, with the explanation that it comes from the wheelsuspension, and is a design flaw on this particular version of the TMS, where the sound is conducted via the metal frame to the dashboard. They claim that can be improved a little by changing some hardware, but not removed. Hence I still have the sound.
     
  13. selfbp

    selfbp Member

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    Where did you read that? I’d like to review some of it I’ve been searching for a while.
    I’m a 75 RWD car owner, although the sound is exactly what you’re talking about
     
  14. xbox4me62

    xbox4me62 Member

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    Location:
    SF bay area
    Is there a guide on where to start prying? When they replaced my airbag due to the recall the rattles up front got much worse. Does the entire top piece come off first?
     
  15. selfbp

    selfbp Member

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    o_O
    No you’ll need to remove
    1. The side panels on the dash where it meets the door
    2. Remove the knee trim panels by pulling them towards you with excessive amounts of force
    3. Then pull off the underside trim panel located 12o’ clock to the drivers display
    4. Remove the two upper of the four screws holding on the driver display bezel
    5. Remove the steering column rubber sleeve clips by popping it out towards you from its left and right pop clips
    6. Remove the A pillar’s airbag logo bolt by popping off the cap and removing that (8mm I think) and pull the two clips at the bottom of the A pillar trim out of the mesh dash (mine needed a lot of force)
    7. Remove the lower display bezel screws
    8. Lift up on the dash to expose some air vent trim screws (I think there’s one upper screw for each vent)
    9. Remove the driver left side air duct trim screws (2 lower and the 1 upper) and pull it away. There’s two clips also. One on each lower side
    10. Remove the passenger side air vent trim by removing its two screws (towards the top sides.. I think you lift the dashpad out of its front clips some) and pull the panel away from its 4 clip sockets (two in the center area, two towards the touch screen bezel above the glove box button)
    11. Remove pop in trim panel under glove box
    12. Remove the 6 forward facing glove box screws (3 on top 3 on bottom near hinge) and disconnect the plugs towards the back left as you pull away
    13. Remove your frunk large middle cover to expose the airbox tray. Remove the airbox tray by lightly pulling up on the side clips that meet the frunk weather seal area. Take that out to expose the airbox ducting, remove its two little similar clips and pull it out.
    14. Disconnect your Firefighters safety plug by pulling the loop connector. (Turns off power to the battery)
    15. Then disconnect your negative terminal then positive terminal from your 12 battery
    16. Back inside, Above where you just took out the glove box, lower Autopilot computer box from its 4 small bolts (not scary just be mindful to not put hard pressure anywhere on it)
    17. With the computer hanging down there will be 2 10mm airbag bolts (1 towards left 1 towards the right of the airbag located under the dashpad)
    18. With the battery disconnected and no power to anything, pull up from left and right sides of the dash pad popping out the many clips on the way... and remove the left and right airbag connectors by pulling their center safety tabs out with a pick (L-Shaped pick work best)
    19. Remove the slip on antenna connector above the touch screen from the dashpad remove the rest of the dashpad from the car!
    Wasn’t so hard now was it.... o_O

    I’ll make this into a separate post with pics at some point. I really wish there had been a step by step for me.
     
    • Helpful x 1
  16. BrianS85

    BrianS85 Member

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    Dec 1, 2018
    Messages:
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    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    This happened to me as well. Ironically, I went in to the SC to get a suspension rattle fixed and they performed the airbag replacement as well. I was stoked when they said they found the source of the suspension rattle and fixed it. Sadly, that was not true and the suspension rattle is exactly the same as it was before. In addition, I now have an interior squeak coming from the front passenger side due to the airbag replacement. I don't think I'm as motivated as selfbp though. I still love this car and wouldn't drive anything else, but the build quality and service is just awful compared to my Lexus.
     
  17. dcevelyn

    dcevelyn Member

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    Apr 26, 2017
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    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    I had the exact same problem that the SC just fixed yesterday under warranty. Went through at least 2 or 3 visits where they could not replicate the sound I was hearing. Feelsgoodman now that it is fixed.
     
  18. GeoX750

    GeoX750 Member

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2018
    Messages:
    231
    Location:
    Chicago
    My dash rattle turned out to be the strut tops. They replaced the struts and the rattle went away.
     
    • Love x 1
  19. whitex

    whitex Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Seattle area, WA
    Not at all in my experience with 4 Model S cars, all different. Rubbing, road noise entering through thin walls or holes, loose pieces or plastic rolling around (broken off clips), one one seat ticking noise I still don't know what it is because I don't want to take apart the seat with the airbags in it. The clicking comes and goes with the seasons, probably temperature related. SC even swapped the seat back in 2015, which fixed it for about 9 months, and then the new seat started doing the same.
     
  20. mike25

    mike25 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2016
    Messages:
    56
    Location:
    Seattle
    For me as well it was the strut brace contact point on the right side. Tesla fix it. It really sounded from the middle of the dash.
     

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