EVOffer / Tesla Offer electric frunk install

[ngng]

Spent some time at the shop today and checked this off my TODO list. The install is pretty straight forward...but the instructions are not great.

Things I am not happy with:

1. You must use zip ties or double sided tape to secure the ECU and emergency release module. IMO, this is unacceptable for the price point. Zip ties? Really?
2. My emergency release pull cable does not actually work
3. The struts need longer wiring harnesses, the current length severely limits wire routing
4. The system does not detect load, I damn near killed myself when the hood started closing on me. I could NOT force it open. Lucked out and was able to find my remote and reverse the hood
5. System appears to be hardwired to the battery. I need to get around to measuring the load to determine if the system will kill my battery long term

Things I like:

1. ECU is sealed nicely and wire connector is high quality
2. Feels OEM, once installed

 

[chukiechz]

Thanks for testing out the load feature! . I’ll make sure to stay clear when it’s closing.

I’ve had mine for about a year now and no issues with 12v battery. I did get the battery replaced about a month after I installed it, and it was covered under warranty without question.

 

[Richbot]

Safety features are boring until things get exciting when they're gone

 

[balefire]

Didn't know this existed.
Please let us know about battery effects.
Definitely on my wish list now!

 

[rducharme]

I started my install and ran into a few problems. Some that may not be issues and one that is:

1. The instructions are bad. I ordered one for a 2022 Model S Plaid. Their Mark 5 (Variant C). No video so I watched the Variant B video. It explained things the web page did not cover.
   • Parts list did not match. No struts backplate/screws - not sure if this is older information.
   • Instructions parts list should show pictures of the harnesses so you are sure you are using the right ones.
   • They need to make a video because the instructions assume you know what things look like. Figured out most if it from Variant B video but there are differences in the latch area.
   • The firmware upgrade instructions say to insert in ECU but that unit is totally sealed up. There is a rubber plug on the side but when removed, looks like a place for another connector, not a MicroSD card.
   • It would be nice to have a overhead shot of an installed system showing where everything is mounted and where to route the cables.
   • DO NOT like how they pick up power off the battery. Wrapping bare wire around the post (covered with a red cap), putting electrical tape on it, then covering with red cap.
2. In Variant B video, it says to test the struts by pulling down on the frunk hood - pulled down hard enough and nothing moved. Almost thought I would bend the frunk hood. The instructions do not say to do this test so maybe the new type of struts only work with power and the manual pull down should not be done.
3. Now for the issue. After putting everything on (latch, struts, latch motor) all the electrical cables were connected and things seem to be right. However, the instructions say to:

Connect the brown connector from the major harness to the latch motor. Place the latch motor in a location near the wheel well. This is for extra backup measure in case if the emergency pull wire fail, so you can access the latch motor from behind the wheel well. Try to zip tie the latch motor to secure it.​

​

There is no brown connector. After installation, there is only 1 connector left coming off the major harness and 1 port on the latch motor (see pictures). Unfortunately, these connectors are not compatible - whoops.​

​

I have contacted EVOffer to get this clarified - need to use "Telegram", cannot use email so that took a little time to get all setup. Will let you know what happens when they respond.

By the way, since the car was not drivable with the hood lifted all the way up, I had to remove the powered structs since not able to lower them manually. The procedure to do that is:

1. Remove the lower connection first (can get access with screw driver.
2. Lift strut and point to outside of car so you can get to the top clip
3. Pull out clip and then remove top portion of strut.
4. Install original strut on that side
5. Repeat on other side.

 

[rducharme]

I started my install and ran into a few problems. Some that may not be issues and one that is:

1. The instructions are bad. I ordered one for a 2022 Model S Plaid. Their Mark 5 (Variant C). No video so I watched the Variant B video. It explained things the web page did not cover.
   • Parts list did not match. No struts backplate/screws - not sure if this is older information.
   • Instructions parts list should show pictures of the harnesses so you are sure you are using the right ones.
   • They need to make a video because the instructions assume you know what things look like. Figured out most if it from Variant B video but there are differences in the latch area.
   • The firmware upgrade instructions say to insert in ECU but that unit is totally sealed up. There is a rubber plug on the side but when removed, looks like a place for another connector, not a MicroSD card.
   • It would be nice to have a overhead shot of an installed system showing where everything is mounted and where to route the cables.
   • DO NOT like how they pick up power off the battery. Wrapping bare wire around the post (covered with a red cap), putting electrical tape on it, then covering with red cap.
2. In Variant B video, it says to test the struts by pulling down on the frunk hood - pulled down hard enough and nothing moved. Almost thought I would bend the frunk hood. The instructions do not say to do this test so maybe the new type of struts only work with power and the manual pull down should not be done.
3. Now for the issue. After putting everything on (latch, struts, latch motor) all the electrical cables were connected and things seem to be right. However, the instructions say to:

Connect the brown connector from the major harness to the latch motor. Place the latch motor in a location near the wheel well. This is for extra backup measure in case if the emergency pull wire fail, so you can access the latch motor from behind the wheel well. Try to zip tie the latch motor to secure it.​

​

There is no brown connector. After installation, there is only 1 connector left coming off the major harness and 1 port on the latch motor (see pictures). Unfortunately, these connectors are not compatible - whoops.​

​

I have contacted EVOffer to get this clarified - need to use "Telegram", cannot use email so that took a little time to get all setup. Will let you know what happens when they respond.

By the way, since the car was not drivable with the hood lifted all the way up, I had to remove the powered structs since not able to lower them manually. The procedure to do that is:

1. Remove the lower connection first (can get access with screw driver.
2. Lift strut and point to outside of car so you can get to the top clip
3. Pull out clip and then remove top portion of strut.
4. Install original strut on that side
5. Repeat on other side.

Quick update. EVOffer responded and I was able to locate the brown connector. I was using the wrong harness when trying the connection. A separate video on the Model 3 helped with the new latch system. Will continue install later tonight. Do not expect any further problems

 

[ngng]

They have finally sent me a replacement ECU. Crossing my fingers it solves the latch issue, but it sounds like it might be related to the spring. At least, based on another person's experience.

 

[John Coctason]

I started my install and ran into a few problems. Some that may not be issues and one that is:

1. The instructions are bad. I ordered one for a 2022 Model S Plaid. Their Mark 5 (Variant C). No video so I watched the Variant B video. It explained things the web page did not cover.
   • Parts list did not match. No struts backplate/screws - not sure if this is older information.
   • Instructions parts list should show pictures of the harnesses so you are sure you are using the right ones.
   • They need to make a video because the instructions assume you know what things look like. Figured out most if it from Variant B video but there are differences in the latch area.
   • The firmware upgrade instructions say to insert in ECU but that unit is totally sealed up. There is a rubber plug on the side but when removed, looks like a place for another connector, not a MicroSD card.
   • It would be nice to have a overhead shot of an installed system showing where everything is mounted and where to route the cables.
   • DO NOT like how they pick up power off the battery. Wrapping bare wire around the post (covered with a red cap), putting electrical tape on it, then covering with red cap.
2. In Variant B video, it says to test the struts by pulling down on the frunk hood - pulled down hard enough and nothing moved. Almost thought I would bend the frunk hood. The instructions do not say to do this test so maybe the new type of struts only work with power and the manual pull down should not be done.
3. Now for the issue. After putting everything on (latch, struts, latch motor) all the electrical cables were connected and things seem to be right. However, the instructions say to:

Connect the brown connector from the major harness to the latch motor. Place the latch motor in a location near the wheel well. This is for extra backup measure in case if the emergency pull wire fail, so you can access the latch motor from behind the wheel well. Try to zip tie the latch motor to secure it.​

​

There is no brown connector. After installation, there is only 1 connector left coming off the major harness and 1 port on the latch motor (see pictures). Unfortunately, these connectors are not compatible - whoops.​

​

I have contacted EVOffer to get this clarified - need to use "Telegram", cannot use email so that took a little time to get all setup. Will let you know what happens when they respond.

By the way, since the car was not drivable with the hood lifted all the way up, I had to remove the powered structs since not able to lower them manually. The procedure to do that is:

1. Remove the lower connection first (can get access with screw driver.
2. Lift strut and point to outside of car so you can get to the top clip
3. Pull out clip and then remove top portion of strut.
4. Install original strut on that side
5. Repeat on other side.

I started my install and ran into a few problems. Some that may not be issues and one that is:

1. The instructions are bad. I ordered one for a 2022 Model S Plaid. Their Mark 5 (Variant C). No video so I watched the Variant B video. It explained things the web page did not cover.
   • Parts list did not match. No struts backplate/screws - not sure if this is older information.
   • Instructions parts list should show pictures of the harnesses so you are sure you are using the right ones.
   • They need to make a video because the instructions assume you know what things look like. Figured out most if it from Variant B video but there are differences in the latch area.
   • The firmware upgrade instructions say to insert in ECU but that unit is totally sealed up. There is a rubber plug on the side but when removed, looks like a place for another connector, not a MicroSD card.
   • It would be nice to have a overhead shot of an installed system showing where everything is mounted and where to route the cables.
   • DO NOT like how they pick up power off the battery. Wrapping bare wire around the post (covered with a red cap), putting electrical tape on it, then covering with red cap.
2. In Variant B video, it says to test the struts by pulling down on the frunk hood - pulled down hard enough and nothing moved. Almost thought I would bend the frunk hood. The instructions do not say to do this test so maybe the new type of struts only work with power and the manual pull down should not be done.
3. Now for the issue. After putting everything on (latch, struts, latch motor) all the electrical cables were connected and things seem to be right. However, the instructions say to:

Connect the brown connector from the major harness to the latch motor. Place the latch motor in a location near the wheel well. This is for extra backup measure in case if the emergency pull wire fail, so you can access the latch motor from behind the wheel well. Try to zip tie the latch motor to secure it.​

​

There is no brown connector. After installation, there is only 1 connector left coming off the major harness and 1 port on the latch motor (see pictures). Unfortunately, these connectors are not compatible - whoops.​

​

I have contacted EVOffer to get this clarified - need to use "Telegram", cannot use email so that took a little time to get all setup. Will let you know what happens when they respond.

By the way, since the car was not drivable with the hood lifted all the way up, I had to remove the powered structs since not able to lower them manually. The procedure to do that is:

1. Remove the lower connection first (can get access with screw driver.
2. Lift strut and point to outside of car so you can get to the top clip
3. Pull out clip and then remove top portion of strut.
4. Install original strut on that side
5. Repeat on other side.

Thanks for taking the time to write up these issues with your install. I am about to install one on my X Plaid. I ordered the Variant B as I was told thats the one I needed. I don't see the Variant C as an option on the website. Is this a newer variant that just got released? Thanks

 

[Genie]

I installed mine last summer ,12/20 built MX, it has worked flawlessly and I use it every day. No battery issues.
The install was a little cumbersome because their video is so poorly lit, but it wasn’t difficult.
I wasn’t missing any parts and they can be reached on WhatsApp but that wasn’t necessary.

As ngng mentioned the controller and release modules don’t neatly fit into place, if I remember the instructions right, they said something like “find a good place to secure them” or some BS. I don’t know the best way, I suggest getting some adhesive backed hook n loop tape, and then ziptie for good measure. They seem to be generic units so they won’t simply clip in anywhere.

I would absolutely do it again (for myself). If the installation is holding you back I bet a car stereo or alarm shop would take the job.

 

[rducharme]

EVOffer's comments and pointing to an additional video helped me get mine done. I do have a little glitch in that if I put the cover on over the battery, it does not want to do the second latch. I probably have not pushed in the clips in far enough. I did run the power wire over that cross bar on the model s plaid. Wondering if I should have routed it around. Should not get pinched between cover and the cross bar. If I press slightly down on hood as it latches, locks in. More tweaking tomorrow.

The latch motor ended up as far forward and down on the driver's side with the 12v jumper and place to put mechanical pull.
The mechanical pull is really difficult. I was not able to manually open the hood using it. Will play with it more.
I put the control unit on the passenger's side down near the frame with the plug pointing towards the driver's side. Used wire ties to attach to the metal above the frame.