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Exceeding the 1000kg towing rating by 500kg

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I admit that I know lots of people running those CURT controllers and not having issues. Our results seem kind of "one-off" but I don't think brakes are worth risking it for even a one off result.

The other problem with the CURT controller is that it sticks out really far and the mounting location can be an issue. You could NOT use it on a Model X. It fits rather well on a Model Y.

I / my company (I have to tread lightly here, because I've been warned by admins that I can't do any advertising) are happy to help people that are never going to be customers. We regularly send out information and pictures of how we do this. We're a single dealership in Canada and we realize not everyone can come see us.

That said most people don't need our services to tow small utility trailers, or mount a bike rack. I have my experienced opinion, but if you're sticking with less than 1500lb, then what you find on the internet probably won't get you in any trouble.

FOR ANYONE NOT IN NORTH AMERICA: Hitching and towing work completely different in Europe. I have very little knowledge on the EU way of doing things and practically zero knowledge on what products exist for that market. You'll have to do your research specific to your region. I'm happy to help, if I can, but I doubt I can help you very much.
Thank you for the reply and feedback, absolutely agree.

However I have tried to do some decent research on that item, its use, and feedback across many different applications, and that is the first I have read about user feedback of poor reliability and performance.

Just as this device can fail if something is wrong, so can literally every other method.
Still would like to know what is monitoring your trailer mounted battery if it is connected and Not taking any load from the vehicle to be maintained?

That specific controller really makes a brake controller accessible for vehicles Not setup for a native brake controller! And while my setup is sufficient, I feel so much more confident with trailer brakes for anything that may happen Very quickly and unexpectedly, like people that jump out in front of a trailered vehicle not even leaving a considerate amount of space for normal vehicle, let alone one that has the weight of a trailer behind it pushing it forward!...
 
I'm talking about just wear and tear on the car. Like tires and suspension. Do you think the car would hold up well towing that kind of weight long term? Was that 7,000 lb trailer loaded with stuff or was that just the empty weight Trailer? Never seen any more videos of him towing that Trailer any long distance. Or taking that setup camping with family.
 
The only Model 3 pictures I have are of the unit in the video. I don't have up-to-date pictures.
I have a customer orientation with a Model 3 this afternoon. I'll try and remember to take a picture of their trunk.
Our own Model 3 goes out through the bumper cover. The way we currently do them is out the bottom.
We can do it through the bumper cover, but the labor is significantly more.

I noticed from the video that your 2" tow receiver is located just below the reinforced bumper beam.
It seems that you had to cut a little bit the bumber cover, so the bottom of the receiver must be around 10" from the ground.

Reinforced Tow Hich .jpg
 
I don't mean the weight distribution of the trailer's weight.
That's an issue with cargo trailers, where you load them.
With an RV the manufacturer decided this when they built all the cabinets and installed the tanks.

I mean a weight distribution system to balance the tongue weight on front and back axles of the car.

Thank you for the explanation. I found also this video describing the process of weight distribution evaluation.

 
What ever happened to this person? How did the car hold up over time towing the heavy trailer?
Still driving it and towing it. I just used it to deliver a trailer to a customer last Thursday night. No towing related issue. This car has been sitting outside with a trailer attached since this past spring so it's got some mold in the AC (lots of posts about that, it's obviously a common problem). It also has developed a bad suspension squeak, which I think is from sitting still for several months. I took it for a couple of family road trips a week ago and those were the only issues.
 
Be careful with instructions online. Most people, including the SAE, which I'm a card carrying member of, are doing weight distribution wrong.

This video is the Model 3 and Trailer from the Truck King video. This is how to actually do it.
Are there know/recommended brands that have a "Tighter" tolerance/interface for a 2" receiver and shank?
And hopefully able to supply both mating parts if doing a DIY setup, welding/adapting a existing solution to fit specific needs?

Specifically if looking to have a pin lock to remove the shank for normal off season travel without extra towing accessories.

Or possibly is there a "hybrid" pin lock setup to easily nullify the slop induced with most standard 2" receivers?
 
Be careful with instructions online. Most people, including the SAE, which I'm a card carrying member of, are doing weight distribution wrong.

This video is the Model 3 and Trailer from the Truck King video. This is how to actually do it.

Thank you for taking time for making this such informative video.

While driving cross country, I always noticed trailer which have been flipped over on freeways.
In some countries, you need to have a special driving license extension to tow larger trailer or caravan.

 
With a Model 3, is there a "easy" place in the rear trunk area to derive a suitable 12V DC source for a wireless trailer brake like the Curt "Echo"?

If not, how/where do you pull a fused 12V DC line that can handle ~7A Peak ?
Possibly the PCS if no easy source can be tapped closer to the hitch?

You could install a wire coming from the battery and going under the car all the way to the rear bumper.




Also you could tap the 12V output of the DC/DC inverter located under the rear seat, see bloe video.

 
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Thank you for taking time for making this such informative video.

While driving cross country, I always noticed trailer which have been flipped over on freeways.
In some countries, you need to have a special driving license extension to tow larger trailer or caravan.

A trailer getting so bad it flips over is usually an issue with not enough tongue weight in the trailer. "Sway" experienced when towing is usually the tow vehicle. When you connect a trailer with a simple ball mount the tongue weight of the trailer pressing down on the ball will cantilever some weight off of the front tires. This causes a reduction in stability and control and the car wanders on the road. The trailer has to follow the car and thus the trailer wanders too. The driver doesn't notice the car (unless they're actually a good driver, and almost nobody is) they do notice the trailer. The fix is to use weight distribution. If the tongue weight of the trailer is balanced on the tow vehicle then the vehicle handles the same as it did without a trailer.
 
Be careful with instructions online. Most people, including the SAE, which I'm a card carrying member of, are doing weight distribution wrong.

This video is the Model 3 and Trailer from the Truck King video. This is how to actually do it.
I sincerely hope that people watch his other video before trying that. This is the custom built Model 3 from upthread. If you were to apply this magnitude weight distribution torque to a stock Model 3 it wouldn't be surprising if it twists the rear end off the car in a matter of minutes. That rear end upthread broke off even without deliberate torque application:
Make sure you don’t get a flat or have good tires on your trailer or it will rip your ass off lol
View attachment 938828
 
What ever happened to this person? How did the car hold up over time towing the heavy trailer?
BTW, The boss has made me an offer I can't refuse and I'm buying this car.

Currently at 45,000km (2019 car). This car spends it's life either sitting, not plugged in, or doing highway trips, half of those with trailers. I recently got back from a trip that took me from London, ON to Moncton, NB with a Airstream Basecamp-20X (averaged around 420Wh/km driving an average of 95km/h).

Recently did a battery health test before committing to buying it and it scored 89%.

OH, and the boss is selling it to me because he's buying a Model Y to replace it in the fleet. YES we also do the custom reinforcement on the Model Y. The hitch on the Model Y is really no stronger than the CURT hitch for the Model 3.
 
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A manufacturers tow rating allows some liability for the manufacturer.
If you exceed that, by even one oz. all responsibility transfers to you exclusively.
Many have successfully exceeded tow ratings, and got away with it, however others have experienced failures and eat the repair expenses.

This link shows a tow company using their Model Y to get a trailer off the road, when a sufficiently robust tow truck could not be quickly sourced. He only pulled it a little way, at low speeds, so obviously the Y got the job done. This does not mean you could get away with a similar load.