The rate of charge is very low. On a 15 amp household circuit, the Tesla will charge about 3 miles an hour. I carry 110/220 adapters for various dryer/stove outlets including the normal 14-50. The only reason I carry a heavy duty 110VAC cord is in dire emergency--so far it stays in the trunk.
EV-lutioin
Active Member
It works fine in a pinch. Sometimes when staying at hotels or with family on road trips I deploy the extension cord and mightly 110 adapter. 30-40 miles range overnight can be very helpful the next day.
Derek Kessler
Active Member
It'll be fine, so long as you use a decent extension cord. I did that for 6-7 months before I was in a position to access a higher-power outlet. You might occasionally see reduced charge, but so long as the extension cord is a quality one (thicker cable, chunky plug, etc) you'll likely get full 15-amp 3-4-mile/hour charge out of it. Just be sure you'll be able to get by charging at that rate with your regularly driving habits.
There is a way to combine two 15A or two 20A outlets into one 220V, 15A or 20A source for charging, effectively doubling the rate of charge aforded by 110V outlet. I've bought the gizmo from quick20.com. It is a quality, UL listed product. Make sure to read all the instructions on the website before buying, though. The salient points are that it does not work with GFI outlets, and you'll likely need additional extension cords as the gizmo needs to be plugged in two outlets on separate 110V legs of the system, and such outlets will not necessarily be in close proximity to each other.
I've used this gizmo for about a month at the rental property, charging at about 9 miles per hour.
I've used this gizmo for about a month at the rental property, charging at about 9 miles per hour.
Knightowl
Whovian
I charged this way when visiting my parents, it worked mostly ok, did stop a couple times due to low voltage/fluctuations I ended up have to dial it back to at the end of my 2 week visit, so 75% of the time it was 3mph and 25% of the time it was 2mph charge rate. Granted I was plugged into an exterior outlet and it was raining.
the key to getting a decent charge on a 110 extension cord is to be certain to have a heavy duty cord. a narrow gauge cord may not do it.
I use this one from wal mart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/US-Wire-...ted-Extension-Cord-Yellow/34536300#about-item
I use this one from wal mart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/US-Wire-...ted-Extension-Cord-Yellow/34536300#about-item
At the risk of sounding like your Mom--shouldn't you have GFI anyplace you might plug in your car?
Installation of NEMA 14-50 outlet in the garage does not require GFI.
As for the "voltage converter" I linked in the original post, it need to be plugged in the proper outlets in the house, which do not require GFI, hence the mention of the extension cords.
Get yourself a minimum of 12guage cord (one that is temperature shielded for the cold) and you should get 3-4 miles per hour. Not super fast but it'll help in a crunch no matter where you are.
iwannam3
Member
Size matters! Not the size of the insulation, the size (gauge) of the wire. Plastic is way cheaper than copper so some cords have a large diameter, but small gauge wire. The higher the gauge, the SMALLER the wire! Normal 15 amp circuits use 14 gauge wire. 20 amp circuits use 12 gauge wire, better! I would go with 12 gauge, shown as 12/3, it will be significantly more expensive because you are paying for the copper. I would avoid Walmart since they sell the absolutely cheapest stuff they can find so the suppliers must cut every corner to get the price down.
Insulation matters if you are gonna use it in extremely cold weather. Cords become stiff and are hard to wrap up. If you live in a warm climate doesn't matter at all. The longer the wire the lower the gauge number. Anything lower than 10/3 would be expensive with minimal benefit regardless of length
How do you get the cord from in the house to the car without opening a window or door? Also, even if you could, I would worry about electrocution in the event of rain or puddles.
You've lost me here. Here is what I did in the rental house:
Step 1. Connect "voltage converter" to two non-GFI outlets *inside* the house. No rain or puddles there. As safe as plugging any appliance into the regular wall outlet.
Step 2. Snake two incoming (into the "Voltage Converter") 115V cables under the door into the garage. The rubber weather strip at the bottom of the door that covers the gap between the bottom and threshold was compressed over the cables which were smaller in the diameter than the gap between the threshold and the bottom of the door. The threshold was adjustable, so I could've increased a gap a bit if I needed to.
Step 3. Park MS in the garage. Plug Tesla UMC into the "Voltage Converter". As safe as plugging Tesla UMC into any designated outlet in the garage. Once again according to Tesla Installation Instructions for dedicated charging outlets, no GFI is required for them, as the UMC has much more sophisticated monitoring of the circuit than the one offered by a GFI receptacle.
When exactly you think there was an abnormal risk to get "electrocuted"?
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Lloyd
Well-Known Member
If you have to use an extension cord get a heavy gage one! NO 14 wire, 12 is ok 10 is better!
50ft 10 Gauge Heavy Duty Indoor/Outdoor SJTW Lighted Triple Outlet Extension Cord by Watt's Wire - 50' 10/3 Rugged Lighted Grounded Pigtail Power Cord - 10AWG 125Vac 15Amp 1875Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FX6JRWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_j7ePzbXDYRJFX
50ft 10 Gauge Heavy Duty Indoor/Outdoor SJTW Lighted Triple Outlet Extension Cord by Watt's Wire - 50' 10/3 Rugged Lighted Grounded Pigtail Power Cord - 10AWG 125Vac 15Amp 1875Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FX6JRWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_j7ePzbXDYRJFX
I would not unless the cord is damaged. People plug in RVs with extension cords all the time, and older posts did not have GFCIs. If the cord is damaged all bets are off, of course.
