I’m still working on the idea that I can put an inductor in line and get it to only pass a very low bass like sounds…. I honestly think that would probably be the perfect solution as the speaker still technically works, but not in a manner that irritates the crap out of you. Moreover, anybody who is blind is going to hear that a mile away….
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External speaker fault with latest update?
- Thread starter dusty
- Start date
if you went this far I'd probably just cut off the driver and put the resistor or the inductor in there. Removing the cone alone will likely just make it emit weird sounds with a higher pitch (though quieter?)
I'd probably be more comfortable with more than 4 rather than less than 4 due to the current draw, however with a 0.1ohm difference it probably doesn't matter.
This is the exact setup I have - I've been avoiding the 2022.28.2 update until I can find a suitable resistor. Can you post a link to the exact resistor you got? I found some on Amazon but I'm a bit lost in the sea of options, and nothing specifically mentions water resistance.
Black306
Active Member
Not comfortable posting the part number yet. At the moment, I'm feeling pretty confident the 5w resistor selected will do the trick long term. My considerations are (1) the 25w speaker rating is probably peak not RMS, (2) and the speaker isn't being pushed to 'max volume,' and (3) the resistor did not rise in temp at all (by touch) when I ran it for ~30 mins. However, I want to actually measure the watts, measure temps, and run the resistor for a while before I recommend it.
Have the PWS Isolation Kit in stalled in our 2022 MYLR and got the "External Speaker Fault - Service is Required" message after the latest update. Gave brief thought about adding a 4ohm resistor to the cable plug but decided to put everything back to original. Tesla is smart enough to devise a test to determine whether the cable is terminated with a speaker or a resistor and I don't want to go through this again.
Fair enough. Is there any downside of overrating the wattage and getting one of the many 25w 4ohm resistors on Amazon like this one? They come with bulky metal heat sinks, but I suspect that wouldn’t really matter much.
Black306
Active Member
I really hate the UFO sound in reverse. The problem is that it's too loud. I've given additional thought to reducing the sound level as an alternative to disabling the PWS entirely. Ran across a Youtube video recently that showed a big reduction in level by merely taping over the speaker holes in the bottom front panel. I'm going to experiment and go from there. I like the idea of keeping the PWS operational but at an acceptable sound level.
It's a little sad that @Abstract Ocean hasn't made a comment on an updated version coming or even a warning on their page saying these errors might show up...
andaconda
Active Member
Last year a couple layers of black Gorilla Tape worked pretty good for me. Blends well with the under belly.
I'll be amazed if Abstract Ocean, or any other reputable vendor, produces something to bypass this. I'm no lawyer, but I can hear the howl of the attorneys.
I'm one that finds this noise to be too loud, particularly in reverse. The "forward" sound is OK. It's *so* much better than other cars, though. My ID.4 was atrocious. Hopefully this is the end state.
AO has already had an option… but I would like to see an official statement from them that they will not be releasing a version 2, or that they are working on an updated solution, or at least a warning about potential error messages if their product is used.
Black306
Active Member
Ditto; ran the resistor I’m using through ~6.5W using DC current and it got to ~300F/150C in about a 1-2 mins. Plugged the same (part number) resistor to the car, had someone put the car in drive/reverse for a few mins, and the resistor didn’t even go up 1F. Plus, I’ve driven ~600miles so far and no damage to the TE connector.38.2 new message “Audio system unavailable- Horn may not function”
Still waiting on some parts from TE.
Did a test full load 7W with a 7W 4ohm resistor, my FLIR camera estimated a surface temperature @ 150CI hope it will stay a bit lower in the car.
This is Abstract Ocean's disclaimer...
Disclaimer: You are disabling a safety feature by opting to do this, albeit one that will never exist on at least half a million older Teslas, and many other hybrid and EV's. Tesla could also render this unusable with a future software release. With that said, when your Tesla does become fully autonomous, and does not require your supervision to drive and navigate in public spaces, we recommend that you reconnect the speaker.
I corresponded with AO's customer service and they are looking into an updated version.
I'm currently using some A/C insulation tape but will go with Gorilla All Weather tape if needed.