I had a loaner with 22" and now I want to get a set for my MX. I know nothing about rims but have read that a few aftermarket brands are much lighter then the factory ones and therefore range would not be reduced as much. Question is for all the aftermarket brands that are lighter are they easier to get damaged if it were to run over a pothole vs. the factory (heavier) rims? Assuming same tires and going same speed over the potholes. I'm from NJ and often drive through NYC so there are a LOT of those around...Thanks for any comments!
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Peteybabes
redneck drivin' a tesla...
i drove with non-factory low profile tires in NY/NJ with aftermarket 20's in a previous car and i bent the rim so bad the tire couldn't hold air, but then again i only have factory 22's on my X which have performed really well on bad surfaces someone else can speak to an aftermarket 22" and how it performs with potholes.
as for lighter rims providing extra range? puh-lease! the total over weight savings is just a few pounds and even though it's "unsprung weight" i would be surprised if you saw a difference between factory and aftermarket 22" wh/mi usage. you will see about 50-100 wh/mi increase over your 20" wheels or as Tesla used to say; "10-15% decrease in range".
22" rims with wheels and 20" rims with wheels have roughly the same outer diameter. That means, you'll have a lot more rubber with 20" rims, giving you a much bigger cushion when hitting a pothole. Your odds of damaging the 22" rims will go up, but it depends on the size of the potholes whether or not they will get damaged.
Peteybabes
redneck drivin' a tesla...
also like 1-2" wider?? so there's a more vulnerable stiff sidewall sticking a little further out...
I wouldn't recommend a larger diameter wheel if you are constantly running into large pot holes. You're better off running the 20's with a thicker profile to absorb the impact. The 22's require a low profile because of the diameter of the rim which will decrease the protection between tire and the rim. Furthermore, the strength of the rim isn't measured in weight but rather, the type of technology used to make the rim. I.E: Forge vs Cast vs HLT.
Wheel Construction
Wheel Construction
@ckwong I've had T Sportline MX5 22" for over a year on my 75D. No issues and like NYC, potholes are everywhere like land mines in San Francisco.
iericks
Member
I'll say after driving a BMW 328 for almost 10 years, I love having tires (and wheels) that I can ignore potholes (and also not too large parking curbs; anything over three inches would hit the air dam). Used to go through several sets of wheels with the bimmer in its life, sports cars have very low profile tires. The X's 20" inch wheels are like a Hummer in comparison. 
Be careful what you wish for...
Be careful what you wish for...
Peteybabes
redneck drivin' a tesla...
recently i've been driving like a granny and getting 358 wh/mile and yesterday with rainy 396 wh/mile today working my average back down to 360's... lol!
i got passed on a 45mph 2-lane road doing 35mph with autopilot.
(oops) If i drove less conservatively i'm looking at 400-450 wh/mile with my 22's and if my brother drives my car for 30 miles the average goes up to 550+ wh/mi.
I know.. first longish drive today, I got 365 on TeslaFi... but I was trying to see how and when I was blowing watts out the window.recently i've been driving like a granny and getting 358 wh/mile and yesterday with rainy 396 wh/mile today working my average back down to 360's... lol!
i got passed on a 45mph 2-lane road doing 35mph with autopilot.
Tomorrow we are going to Skyline Drive (Shenandoah National Park) for the day, that should be interesting (mountain-ish climb, and almost free coming back down), and another place I'll be glad to have 20" wheels.I would never take 22" wheels unless it was one of those cases where I had ten cars and had two X's.
Let’s clear up some misconceptions.
22” rims are a range hit becaue even when the 22” rim is light, 22” tires are heavier than 20” tires and by virtue of being 22ers, put all that weight farther out towards the end of the tire/rim combo. It’s simple physics. You can take 20” and 22” setups that weigh the same but if the 22” tire is heavier it takes more energy to accelerate (and brake) that combination than it does the the 20”. Go to tire rack and look up the weights for 20” and 22” tires. 22” tires are consistently heavy. That’s where the range hit comes from.
22” setups typically ride harder because of both the shorter and stiffer sidewall, and also because unsprung weight heavily influences ride quality. The heavier the wheel/tire the more the shocks and bushings have to manage. If you have a 22” setup that weighs the same as a 20” setup you avoid the unsprung weight hit on ride quality but you still have the shorter stiffer sidewall.
I’ve looked hard at this and the best you can do with currently available wheels and tires is get to a 22” combo that weighs the same as a 20” but you’ll still have a range hit from the increase in rotational mass (more mass on the edge). With a 24-25lb wheel and 34lb tire (lightest MX setup I could come up with) I estimate it’ll still be a 10% hit on range in the city. Almost no hit on range on the highway since you’re cruising at steady speed for the most part. Personally that’s something I could live with.
Lastly, having lived in NYC for 20 years and several years in the SF Bay Area, there is simply no comparison on pothole gnarliness. NYC potholes are far more severe than SF.
22” rims are a range hit becaue even when the 22” rim is light, 22” tires are heavier than 20” tires and by virtue of being 22ers, put all that weight farther out towards the end of the tire/rim combo. It’s simple physics. You can take 20” and 22” setups that weigh the same but if the 22” tire is heavier it takes more energy to accelerate (and brake) that combination than it does the the 20”. Go to tire rack and look up the weights for 20” and 22” tires. 22” tires are consistently heavy. That’s where the range hit comes from.
22” setups typically ride harder because of both the shorter and stiffer sidewall, and also because unsprung weight heavily influences ride quality. The heavier the wheel/tire the more the shocks and bushings have to manage. If you have a 22” setup that weighs the same as a 20” setup you avoid the unsprung weight hit on ride quality but you still have the shorter stiffer sidewall.
I’ve looked hard at this and the best you can do with currently available wheels and tires is get to a 22” combo that weighs the same as a 20” but you’ll still have a range hit from the increase in rotational mass (more mass on the edge). With a 24-25lb wheel and 34lb tire (lightest MX setup I could come up with) I estimate it’ll still be a 10% hit on range in the city. Almost no hit on range on the highway since you’re cruising at steady speed for the most part. Personally that’s something I could live with.
Lastly, having lived in NYC for 20 years and several years in the SF Bay Area, there is simply no comparison on pothole gnarliness. NYC potholes are far more severe than SF.
CarosDreamCar
Member
I switched to OEM 22"s a week after delivery.They are easy to find and cheaper than aftermarket and in my opinion look better than current aftermarket offerings although heavier.The 22" wheels are a great upgrade but you will have to be very aware of your surroundings i.e.; curbs, potholes etc. Your 100D has plenty of range so decreased about 15% won't matter much. The Pirellis are excellent and are slightly more $ than Goodyears. You will notice many benefits from the new set up. Ride quality will be about the same, Handling and confidence goes up.The car is actually my wife's but I insisted on the wheel/pirelli upgrade.LOL as I drive it on weekends with the family I feel like a million bucks in this car especially with the 22"s. But be prepared for a higher cost per mile as in any wheel/tire upgrade on any car.
Peteybabes
redneck drivin' a tesla...
it's utterly addicting to drive with teslafi running in the browser!I know.. first longish drive today, I got 365 on TeslaFi... but I was trying to see how and when I was blowing watts out the window.
I would never take 22" wheels unless it was one of those cases where I had ten cars and had two X's.
constant updates showing efficiency never gets old.
Now that I haven’t tried. And today it wouldn’t have worked well with crappy signal in the mountains. But something to try, for sure. I keep thinking the browser is worthless. But I guess it’s not that worthless, thanks!it's utterly addicting to drive with teslafi running in the browser!
While driving somewhat mildly I am pulling off 380ish (give or take) with aftermarket 22s on a lowered P100D...couldnt be happier. Thats also with occasional reminders that I am driving the fastest SUV on the planet - if you have it, you gotta use it...and 'driving it like I stole it' for the day might bump that up to 410ish and give me permanent grin.
IMHO stressing over the 20 extra miles per charge you might pull off between the 20s and 22s seems pretty trivial.
IMHO stressing over the 20 extra miles per charge you might pull off between the 20s and 22s seems pretty trivial.
Thanks! They are AG Luxury AGL23s - not cheap, but really the highest price wheels for the money are the OEM wheels....cast wheels for the better part of 4K and for the same price you can get something 40% lighter and forged!
