Candleflame
Active Member
Model 3 doesnt have any imbalance issue. Also battery imbalance is an issue of cellpack management not battery chemistry...
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I'm a complete laymen, and know that you're already past this point, but just wondering - could you have dumped the bad module out of the original pack and just kept the functioning 75% (or whatever) capacity of the original pack?
The modules in Tesla vehicles are all arranged in series. If you take one out, you no longer have the correct working voltage. In a S or X, there are 14 or 16 modules, so taking one out has a smaller effect. However, there are only 4 modules in the 3 & Y 2170 packs, so running without one is completely out of the question.I'm a complete laymen, and know that you're already past this point, but just wondering - could you have dumped the bad module out of the original pack and just kept the functioning 75% (or whatever) capacity of the original pack?
No, but I honestly don't expect to get much from that. Maybe $2-3k. Car was $23k, battery was $9k, shipping and taxes added up to $3k. Best-case is probably $32k and many, many hours of learning.One thought would be to use your original parts and consider the ones from the replacement pack to be spares. In general it just seems less risky to me. Of course the experts might have much better insight into this.
Did your $35k net included parting out the old pack?
This is not a solution, unfortunately, as explained above by @wk057 - anything short of entire pack replacements will eventually lead to a voltage imbalance that will result in the BMS refusing to close the HV contactors. Model 3 BMS appears to be extremely sensitive.I found a video on YouTube related to this.
I still haven't found why this brick is discharging, but I think signs point to a tiny internal short in a cell. There are 4,416 cells in this pack, so it is entirely possible for a ~150k mile car to have an issue with one of them. The draw isn't enough to melt the fusible link, but it's plenty to overcome any balancing. I think (and hope) that this is a rare event, but it's still a little early to tell since most Model 3s are still under 50k miles, much less 150k.This is the first documented instance I am seeing of a Model 3 battery imbalance issue. I was under the impression the "new battery chemistry" (if that's even a real thing) in model 3 would alleviate these types of problems.. Perhaps a naive/ill-informed assumption.
Should we expect similar life in our batteries as much as earlier Model S/Model X? Maybe 250-300k on our batteries if we're lucky?
Definitely not on the 3. Even if you could magically make the software ignore the missing BMS board, you're well below minimum voltage requirements for the inverter. With some configuration changes, it COULD be possible to remove 2 out of 16 modules on an S depending on the pack, I guess. I don't think it's been worth it for anyone to even attempt, though.I'm a complete laymen, and know that you're already past this point, but just wondering - could you have dumped the bad module out of the original pack and just kept the functioning 75% (or whatever) capacity of the original pack?
No, but I honestly don't expect to get much from that. Maybe $2-3k. Car was $23k, battery was $9k, shipping and taxes added up to $3k. Best-case is probably $32k and many, many hours of learning.
This is not a solution, unfortunately, as explained above by @wk057 - anything short of entire pack replacements will eventually lead to a voltage imbalance that will result in the BMS refusing to close the HV contactors. Model 3 BMS appears to be extremely sensitive.
I still haven't found why this brick is discharging, but I think signs point to a tiny internal short in a cell. There are 4,416 cells in this pack, so it is entirely possible for a ~150k mile car to have an issue with one of them. The draw isn't enough to melt the fusible link, but it's plenty to overcome any balancing. I think (and hope) that this is a rare event, but it's still a little early to tell since most Model 3s are still under 50k miles, much less 150k.
Definitely not on the 3. Even if you could magically make the software ignore the missing BMS board, you're well below minimum voltage requirements for the inverter. With some configuration changes, it COULD be possible to remove 2 out of 16 modules on an S depending on the pack, I guess. I don't think it's been worth it for anyone to even attempt, though.
As for an update on the car, stay tuned. Going to make another post for that.
The four modules are in series, as are the 23 or 25 bricks that make up the modules. The 46 cells in each brick are in parallel.ithought the modules are wired in parallel not in series? so removing a module should just reduce capacity, not voltage?
I thought the Model 3 battery and motor had an 8 year unlimited mileage warranty. Don't they? My 3 is an April '18 build, and I'm hoping for the original battery to make it 7 years and 10 months then crash out then get a FREE warranty replacement pack!
Are there flaws in my plan?
From what I recall, the Model 3 LR (RWD and AWD) launched with 8 years 120,000 miles back in 2017.I'm going to have to go through my papers for my car. I remembered it being 8 years unlimited miles, not 8 years OR 120,000 miles.
From what I recall, the Model 3 LR (RWD and AWD) launched with 8 years 120,000 miles back in 2017.
Article here: Tesla releases Model 3 warranty with new 70% battery capacity retention guarantee
I think Gruber in Arizona is the closest.Are there any shops on the West Coast, Or. or Ca. that repair HV batteries..just thought I would ask.
Thanks codenko!...I hope I won't have to use them for years... >they are at this address>I think Gruber in Arizona is the closest.