Filling tires using 12v

[rotarypower101]

The published specs that I can find about the Viair 300P is that the motor voltage is 12V. Nothing about the maximum or minimum. If you have one of these I'd contact the manufacturer and inquire about a 16V input voltage.

edit: I'd have to think that something like this should be able to accept at least 14.5V input as that is typically what one would see if the (ICE) car is running and the alternator supplying charging voltage.

Thanks, the question is more about how the new 16V battery doesn't have traditional battery posts limiting access with that type of connection, as well as the curiosity does the LV DC system via the power socket also have the elevated voltage of ~16VDC?

Do people have to be careful what items they are utilizing in the power socket with the newer 16V cell, or has it been regulated down to a nominal 12VDC? Because I don't think the trailer plug wiring has, so speculating the existing LV DC system is similar and looking for clarification?

 

[RayK]

Thanks, the question is more about how the new 16V battery doesn't have traditional battery posts limiting access with that type of connection, as well as the curiosity does the LV DC system via the power socket also have the elevated voltage of ~16VDC?

Do people have to be careful what items they are utilizing in the power socket with the newer 16V cell, or has it been regulated down to a nominal 12VDC? Because I don't think the trailer plug wiring has, so speculating the existing LV DC system is similar and looking for clarification?

Ah, I now see the issue. Yes, the new "16V" Li-Ion batteries don't have the traditional round or rectangular posts or screw-in terminals that one could clamp onto. I don't know if there's a place downstream from the battery where your can get an alligator clamp on. My old 2000 BMW had a positive battery terminal under the hood where I could attach a battery charger (the 12V battery was in the trunk behind a side panel).

As far as watching what you plug into the 12V accessory outlet in the car, I would hope that Tesla has regulated the voltage to a constant 12V (or near there). 12V from an automotive cigarette lighter has been a standard for decades and there's a whole ecosystem built around it. As I've previously mentioned, this outlet can go a bit higher, somewhere around 14.5V if the IC engine is running. One would assume that companies have designed their equipment that uses the accessory outlet to account for this, but maybe not as high as 15.5V or whatever is used to charge the Li-ion. Unless somebody with a car that has this new battery can measure it for us, or your equipment has been certified to operate at 16V input. I'd be careful. To my recollection, I've not seen anyone post a voltage measurement of this battery when it's being charged.

BTW, are you a previous Mazda owner? I used to have a 1980 RX-7 GS that had an aftermarket turbo on it.

 

[rotarypower101]

Ah, I now see the issue. Yes, the new "16V" Li-Ion batteries don't have the traditional round or rectangular posts or screw-in terminals that one could clamp onto. I don't know if there's a place downstream from the battery where your can get an alligator clamp on. My old 2000 BMW had a positive battery terminal under the hood where I could attach a battery charger (the 12V battery was in the trunk behind a side panel).

As far as watching what you plug into the 12V accessory outlet in the car, I would hope that Tesla has regulated the voltage to a constant 12V (or near there). 12V from an automotive cigarette lighter has been a standard for decades and there's a whole ecosystem built around it. As I've previously mentioned, this outlet can go a bit higher, somewhere around 14.5V if the IC engine is running. One would assume that companies have designed their equipment that uses the accessory outlet to account for this, but maybe not as high as 15.5V or whatever is used to charge the Li-ion. Unless somebody with a car that has this new battery can measure it for us, or your equipment has been certified to operate at 16V input. I'd be careful. To my recollection, I've not seen anyone post a voltage measurement of this battery when it's being charged.

BTW, are you a previous Mazda owner? I used to have a 1980 RX-7 GS that had an aftermarket turbo on it.

Yeah, FD3S RX7, and a BMW335XI, so acutely aware of the engine bay posts and rear right battery under the side panel.

The user name had some strange back history for me, and just stuck, so use it on forums.

Yes , the power outlet I am REALLY curious about, have not seen anyone state its output voltage, it might be out there, but have not found it yet...So if anyone knows from first hand testing with a multimeter, or has seen a thread they can link and possibly has tested the limit of amperage it can provide, would really like to see that detail answered!

As well as how people have adapted to the change in nominal voltage LV DC system voltage if there is a discrepancy, or how they tap power with alligator leads if/when needed?

 

[rotarypower101]

One would assume that companies have designed their equipment that uses the accessory outlet to account for this, but maybe not as high as 15.5V or whatever is used to charge the Li-ion

To highlight this point, I dont believe they gave any consideration to the wiring output for the trailer lighting output, its also ~16VDC which causes issues for lighting and trailer brake controllers.

Which is why I am SO interested to know how the power socket has been designed for output, I would think they would step down the voltage...But maybe not if they kept the existing harness layout...

 

[brkaus]

To highlight this point, I dont believe they gave any consideration to the wiring output for the trailer lighting output, its also ~16VDC which causes issues for lighting sand trailer brake controllers.

Which is why I am SO interested to know how the power socket has been designed for output, I would think they would step down the voltage...But maybe not if they kept the existing harness layout...

I recall threads here about burned out radar detectors.

 

[Transformer]

I wonder why your car's breaker would trip, but mine doesn't. It could be a difference in the car/breaker or the pump. One thing that is probably different between our cars is that my 12v is lead acid. Yours may be one of the new lithium 12v batteries. Perhaps the lithium 12v is babied a bit more???

The "breaker" has tripped for me, too. Would the initial surge load vary a lot between turning on the pump before vs. after connecting the hose?

When the pump stops working, I have to figure out whether it was the car's "breaker," or the car going to sleep, or the pump blowing its fuse. It might be time to buy a battery-powered pump, but a bike pump works well.

 

[stopcrazypp]

Thanks, the question is more about how the new 16V battery doesn't have traditional battery posts limiting access with that type of connection, as well as the curiosity does the LV DC system via the power socket also have the elevated voltage of ~16VDC?

Do people have to be careful what items they are utilizing in the power socket with the newer 16V cell, or has it been regulated down to a nominal 12VDC? Because I don't think the trailer plug wiring has, so speculating the existing LV DC system is similar and looking for clarification?

View attachment 877887

It is definitely not regulated down to a nominal 12VDC. That's why there is this note just one line down from the screenshot you posted!

Note
For vehicles manufactured after approximately November 2021, power inverters plugged into the low voltage power socket must support 16V DC input to function.

Model 3 Owner's Manual | Tesla

 

[ay221]

This is the link on the radar detectors being burned out in plaid cars.

"12 Volt" Power Outlet in my Tesla Model S Plaid Has Burned Out 3 ~$1000 Escort Redline 360c detectors

I was driving my 2022 Model S Plaid with an Escort Redline 360c radar detector on the windshield and running waze as I always do. I noted a state trooper coming at me on the other side of the median but thought nothing of it given I got no signal on the detector. 30 or so seconds later the...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[roblab]

I carry a portable 12-volt pump, but I also have a more robust pump in my garage. Interestingly enough, I've never used either other than to blow up balls for the kids. I guess I don't drive over bent nails or broken glass, because my tires don't leak.

I once had a slow leak because I ran over a screw, but as I carry a plug kit, I fixed it by the side of the road and drove to a service station to pump it up. Never gave me any trouble.

 

[ay221]

Model 3 Owner's Manual | Tesla

Learn about the electronics available in the interior.

www.tesla.com

Note
For vehicles manufactured after approximately November 2021, power inverters plugged into the low voltage power socket must support 16V DC input to function.

 

[Willy’sEV]

Easy solution: what about the one Tesla sells?

Tire Repair Kit

The Tire Repair Kit contains an air compressor to regularly top off your tire pressure and a one-piece sealant canister to patch punctures. Simply attach the transparent hose to the tire valve and connect the plug to your vehicle's 12V outlet to begin repairing the hole and filling the tire. The...

shop.tesla.com

 

[freeAgent]

The "breaker" has tripped for me, too. Would the initial surge load vary a lot between turning on the pump before vs. after connecting the hose?

When the pump stops working, I have to figure out whether it was the car's "breaker," or the car going to sleep, or the pump blowing its fuse. It might be time to buy a battery-powered pump, but a bike pump works well.

I always connect the power first, then screw the hose on, then turn the pump on. I also keep my driver and/or passenger door ajar while inflating the tires because the power cable has to run out of one or the other anyway. I would think that would prevent the car from sleeping. My process is basically to get the pump plugged into the 12v plug under the arm rest, run the power cable out the driver-side door to the front wheel, connect it, over-inflate the tire, repeat on rear driver-side, then pass the pump over to the passenger side and repeat over there. It stays plugged in until all four tires are (over)inflated. Then, I use a separate manual tire pressure gauge with a bleed valve to bring tire pressure down to exactly the level I want on all four wheels.

It could also be that Viair did something to change the design or construction of the pump without changing the model. It's hard to say. I have another Viair in my ICE car that clips onto the 12v battery directly. That eliminates the fuse issue, but you have to get access to the battery directly.

 

[CKwik240]

It's a bit pricey, but I use a DeWalt 20V pump. It's also my back up pump for camping. It replaced a Husky 120V pump and it's actually faster, and quieter and not having a cord really makes it rather easy to use. Helps that I have a suite of DeWalt 20V tools and a quite a few batteries already.