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Finally! A modern stereo for single-DIN Roadsters

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I got that Joying unit also over the Holidays and started the replacement while trying to avoid taking the dash apart.
I won't use the SIM Card so that's one less 'relocation' to worry about and a pair of antenna I won't need to worry about either.

So far so good, the wiring harness was long enough and easy to pull the old JVC out.
Created an 'adapter' harness that's now working, the radio booted and everything seems to run (except GPS, see below).
All I've left to do, is choosing to replace the radio holder (or not) AND figuring out where to route the GPS antenna.

Did you take the dash apart to position the antennas (pretty sure Xavier did for Rudholm) or did you manage to position them while keep the car 'whole'?
I'm trying to sneak my hand around inside the radio opening but can't feel any gaps to run the wire down to either of the sides.
I was hoping to exit the wires down below the dash on either side and run the wire along the seats into the back, the way I did for OVMS.

If you use Android Auto, see my prior Q. If it's just a screen mirror of phone or like the car implementation
 
If you use Android Auto, see my prior Q. If it's just a screen mirror of phone or like the car implementation

All these other discussions brought me back to your questions...I have no clue.

The unit is running its own version of Android (8.1) and Z-Link seems to require a cable that's out of stock.
Some older forum comments suggests it ran better with iOS than Android and when I started it, it only showed iOS configurations.

Since the unit runs Waze, Chrome AND OVMS, I didn't see a need to push my phone display unto it...
It's not a 10" screen so I prefer to keep the phone in a different app in its holder...gives me more screen real estate to run apps on! :)
 
I got that Joying unit also over the Holidays and started the replacement while trying to avoid taking the dash apart.
I won't use the SIM Card so that's one less 'relocation' to worry about and a pair of antenna I won't need to worry about either.

So far so good, the wiring harness was long enough and easy to pull the old JVC out.
Created an 'adapter' harness that's now working, the radio booted and everything seems to run (except GPS, see below).
All I've left to do, is choosing to replace the radio holder (or not) AND figuring out where to route the GPS antenna.

Did you take the dash apart to position the antennas (pretty sure Xavier did for Rudholm) or did you manage to position them while keep the car 'whole'?
I'm trying to sneak my hand around inside the radio opening but can't feel any gaps to run the wire down to either of the sides.
I was hoping to exit the wires down below the dash on either side and run the wire along the seats into the back, the way I did for OVMS.

More for the archives, since you have the unit installed.

Regarding running the antenna to the sides, I was able to use a wire fishing thing, when installing the back-up camera video cable into my 2.0, to get from the stero to the A-Pillar by the fuse box.

3rd picture in this post.
 
All these other discussions brought me back to your questions...I have no clue.

The unit is running its own version of Android (8.1) and Z-Link seems to require a cable that's out of stock.
Some older forum comments suggests it ran better with iOS than Android and when I started it, it only showed iOS configurations.

Since the unit runs Waze, Chrome AND OVMS, I didn't see a need to push my phone display unto it...
It's not a 10" screen so I prefer to keep the phone in a different app in its holder...gives me more screen real estate to run apps on! :)

On a completely different tack, what phone holder do you use?

I have a vent mount that clips onto one of the vent "tabs" but looking for a better option
 
On a completely different tack, what phone holder do you use?

I have a vent mount that clips onto one of the vent "tabs" but looking for a better option
Before I got the new head unit, I used one of these: Spigen Kuel Stealth Car Mount
It was $18 on Amazon. I stuck it between the center two HVAC vent humps on the dashboard, as far forward as possible. It worked very well. It's landscape-only, if that's an issue.
 
More for the archives, since you have the unit installed.

Regarding running the antenna to the sides, I was able to use a wire fishing thing, when installing the back-up camera video cable into my 2.0, to get from the stero to the A-Pillar by the fuse box.

3rd picture in this post.

I had missed your rear camera install...and that 3rd picture that would have been helpful at the time.
I ended up making it very simple and used John's placement of his GPS antenna on top of the instrument cluster, in his (now fairly old) d-din install thread:
Replacement of Alpine IVA-NAV-10
Forgot to take my own picture but it's exact same spot and I only needed to take out the binnacle.

On a completely different tack, what phone holder do you use?

I have a vent mount that clips onto one of the vent "tabs" but looking for a better option

I have a very simple window sucker mount that I install on the left hand side of the dash and the phone sits hanging on top of the leftmost vent. Nothing fancy.
Someone in the FB "Tesla Roadster Owners Club" (not sure he's on here) posted a magnetic holder that he imbedded in a 3d printed mount that fitted nicely between the two middle vents. Posted this on May 17th. It keeps the phone low enough that it's not blocking your view forward...which is why, mine is on the left hand side...not quite as convenient if I need to charge it from USB though!
 
I have installed this unit and am happy with the result. For sure the radio receipt is much better than with my old Blaupunkt. There is some lag in finding GPS when using a routeplanner
Visibility is somewhat blocked by the steering wheel, heating and ventilation controls easy reachable.
I found this, a new one, on eBay for 265 euro.

looking at it gives me mixed feelings compared to my DDIN dash conversion. I dislike it in that it doesn’t look original and covers the controls. I like it in that it keeps the original vent airflow. I’ve found that me DDIN dash conversion reduced center airflow to about 25% - 35% or original, so you a solid that problem.
 
looking at it gives me mixed feelings compared to my DDIN dash conversion. I dislike it in that it doesn’t look original and covers the controls. I like it in that it keeps the original vent airflow. I’ve found that me DDIN dash conversion reduced center airflow to about 25% - 35% or original, so you a solid that problem.

clearly, I need to proofread before hitting post!!!!
 
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I'm 6'2" and have a long torso, so I didn't have a good view of the HVAC controls to begin with. It was relatively inexpensive and easy compared to trying to convert to a 2.5 dashboard. It doesn't look painfully non-OEM because the face of the screen doesn't protrude forward of the dashboard.
 
I'm 6'2" and have a long torso, so I didn't have a good view of the HVAC controls to begin with. It was relatively inexpensive and easy compared to trying to convert to a 2.5 dashboard. It doesn't look painfully non-OEM because the face of the screen doesn't protrude forward of the dashboard.
How did replacing the head unit affect sound quality? Did you notice a change or improvement?