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Firmware 6.2
- Thread starter spentan
- Start date
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
Perhaps it only affected some cars in some configurations.
After MarcG reported it here, I waited until I had .236, and then tested to see if I had the bug or not. Once I confirmed that I did, I reported it to Tesla. That was Wednesday evening, May 27. The update tracker shows 25 updates to .236 happening that day, and then 4, 2, and 1 the next three days, including today.
Can anyone else confirm the bug MarcG discovered, and can anyone who just updated to .238 or .239 check whether it is present on your car or not now?
Thanks.
Thanks for clearing that up. Thankfully I'll get my Tesla MS soon so I'll have my own experience to go off of.
My interpretation of the Tesla MS behavior that was being described in the other thread was that they were changing drive selection slightly too early before they reached a full stop. So they thought they had switched, but the car ignored it. In the Tesla MS it's not changing any gear. It's simply telling the motor controller which direction you wish to go. Their mistake is they're making the direction change before they've stopped, but they do stop completely (or nearly) before they hit the gas. Only the selection change was ignored so they go the wrong way.
I think it's mostly edge related cases. Where most people fall within the range tesla allows and they're the ones that are doing it slightly outside the allowable speed.
Lots of people have done that so it terms of design for user ability one has to wonder what's going on. Are they do something a normal ICE car is fine with? I can't say I've ever done this with my Jeep Wrangler because why would i? it just seems like it would grind the gears even if it let me. Like you said it's bad practice in any car. But, it doesn't matter if it's bad practice or not because they're crashing. So they cause our insurance rates to go up and they wreck such a fine looking piece of machinery. It doesn't heal itself (yet).
Is there something about the Tesla MS that's changing their behavior? Is the electric drive speed/smoothness causing them to do things rapidly? On Electric vehicles you can change directions really fast and smooth. I do all the time on my Boosted board, but of course the entire user interface is different.
As aside my favorite thread is this one because of TACC related firmware 6.2 changes. It's mostly what I'm keeping up to date on. So I don't meant to interrupt that.
My walk away door lock has always worked, last night just before installing the update I verified that it worked since it was locked on its own in my garage, and this morning after the update I've tested it again it was working.
Hope it helps!
I do not understand the direction to not do a reboot, since I thought that this was a recommended practice following a update.
FWIW, I got the notification of 2.4.236 the evening of 5/26, installed overnight and rebooted the next morning. I had walk away door locking enabled prior to the update and it is currently working for me on 2.4.236 (just checked by unlocking the car in my garage, walking away and checking the state via the Tesla App (reported locked). I use this mostly as a back up and manually lock the car when leaving in a public lot, because I don't like getting 15+ feet away before the car locks.
MarcG
Active Member
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
I was just suggesting that to clx, to test the issue with his new update, since I think it is possible that the issue corrects itself if a reboot is performed. The vast majority of Model S owners aren't going to take a firmware update, and then perform a reboot, so would still be susceptible to the bug. If you were getting a new update, and had not already done the reboot, you could have checked for the bug, and then done the reboot. I wasn't suggesting that you or anyone do anything radically different, like not reboot the car for a week or something. Sorry if that confused you.
Todd Burch
14-Year Member
For what it's worth, I've never done a reboot after a software update (have had 2 Model S's since Dec. 2012) and have never had an issue. The car reboots itself after an update anyway.
In 2.5 yrs of software updates, I've never had a problem as long as you start the update, then leave the car alone to finish the install (don't even bring the FOB nearby).
In 2.5 yrs of software updates, I've never had a problem as long as you start the update, then leave the car alone to finish the install (don't even bring the FOB nearby).
Bugeater
Member
Todd, then you've been lucky! I have had an install fail after starting it late at night and only checking on it in the morning. No interaction at all during the update.
Two years ago I was on the second day of a three week trip when the dash went completely blank. While driving I had to reboot it for the first time. That was scarey but it worked just fine!
Two years ago I was on the second day of a three week trip when the dash went completely blank. While driving I had to reboot it for the first time. That was scarey but it worked just fine!
Ok. I'm on 236. I went for an hour drive that I have done a lot and I usually got 375 -400 wh/mi doing about 75mph to 80. Well I did the same drive with this new firmware and got 300-330 doing 75mph almost all the way there and back????? It was also colder today here in Chicago than the other days I drove it. I'm scratching my head on this one.
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
You don't say what version you were on before getting .236. If it was something earlier than .188 that might explain it, as a lot of us with Ds saw pretty significant improvements to efficiency in .188.
Another possibility is that you might have had a serious tailwind.
Kalud
Active Member
I haven't seen it mentioned earlier. My car was updated to 2.4.213 build last week and since then the contactor opening sound is different.
Before it was closing in a two step (probably ground then positive) and was opening together at the same time. So there was two distinct sounds for closing and opening. Now the two sounds are identical so they are now opening the contactor in a two step procedure.
Stated with onomatopoeia:
- before it was "Clink-Clunk" when closing (enabling the high voltage) and just "clunk" when opening (disabling high-voltage)
- now its "Clink-Clunk" for both
Before it was closing in a two step (probably ground then positive) and was opening together at the same time. So there was two distinct sounds for closing and opening. Now the two sounds are identical so they are now opening the contactor in a two step procedure.
Stated with onomatopoeia:
- before it was "Clink-Clunk" when closing (enabling the high voltage) and just "clunk" when opening (disabling high-voltage)
- now its "Clink-Clunk" for both
breser
AutoPilot Nostradamus
Noticed last night that the issue with the screen taking 5 minutes to flip over to night mode after leaving my bright garage has been resolved.
Problem with Slacker on 2.4.236 - corrected on reboot
Since getting 236 (upgrade from 188) I am finding that Slacker has trouble advancing to the next song and also is failing to display artwork when on 3G. (Works fine when at home on WiFi). Other elements of the symptoms
I rebooted after getting 236. Will try rebooting again, but not confident that this will solve it.
----------------updated------------------------
Rebooting main display appears to have cleared up the problem, although the 3G was totally nonfunctional for about 5 minutes before it started working after the reboot.
Since getting 236 (upgrade from 188) I am finding that Slacker has trouble advancing to the next song and also is failing to display artwork when on 3G. (Works fine when at home on WiFi). Other elements of the symptoms
- Starts fine on song when leaving home (starts on WiFi).
- At end of song, get the spinning cursor, which normally only happens on a weak connection. Stays this way for minutes.
- Hitting pause, followed by play, usually plays the next selection but no information about the artist nor the cover art is displayed.
- Happens after every song, not just intermittently for weak 3G signal.
- Sometimes recovers after stopping and starting car (away from home, no WiFi).
- When switching from USB to Slacker, continues to play USB and reports "trying to reconnect" in the upper right corner of the app but never connects.
- This is at locations around home where everything worked fine on 188
- Seems like the 3G signal is always showing 2 bars everywhere, whereas it used to be stronger in most places in town.
- Google maps updates and displays fine, so it seems to be a media app problem rather than a connection problem per se.
I rebooted after getting 236. Will try rebooting again, but not confident that this will solve it.
----------------updated------------------------
Rebooting main display appears to have cleared up the problem, although the 3G was totally nonfunctional for about 5 minutes before it started working after the reboot.
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R²B
All Star
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
At least for some of us, but apparently not all of us, if we had walk-away door locking enabled when we updated to .236 the walk-away door locking would no longer function, even though it would still show as enabled. One fix was to disable it and re-enable it. That definitely resolved the issue for MarcG. My issue resolved either as a result of a scroll-wheel reset (likely), or as a result of disabling and re-enabling mirror tilting in reverse (less likely). Those were the only two things I did after identifying the problem, and then realizing that it was gone.
So if you had walk-away door locking set, have updated to .238, and have not done a scroll wheel reset or enabled or disabled options, you should be able to at least provide one more data point.
Thanks!
