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Firmware 7.0 - For Classic Model S

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I was going to hold off on installing 7.0, but my timing was poor. A couple of months ago I made an appointment with the SC for this week to rotate tires and install LTE upgrade. The SC told me that the firmware would have to be updated as part of the LTE upgrade. LTE install was completed yesterday, so now I have 7.0. I didn't want to hold off on installation of LTE, so now I'm going to live with 7.0.
 
Good news, classics. It appears we have the same drive units as single motor AP builds. So whatever it is that excludes us from the perf boost is external to the DU suggesting a retrofit might be feasible, if desired.


My DU replacement does not match what that post lists. I am not sure if the 00-K is a later DU than the 00-P DU I have now. On the face of it I am not sure a retrofit is possible.

Peace,
Father Bill
 
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My DU replacement does not match what that post lists. I am not sure if the 00-K is a later DU than the 00-P DU I have now. On the face of it I am not sure a retrofit is possible.

Peace,
Father Bill

Your DU is newer, actually. My point was basically to squash the theory that a "V2" DU is required for the performance increase as has been suggested. They are the same part number regardless of revision.
 
I was going to hold off on installing 7.0, but my timing was poor. A couple of months ago I made an appointment with the SC for this week to rotate tires and install LTE upgrade. The SC told me that the firmware would have to be updated as part of the LTE upgrade. LTE install was completed yesterday, so now I have 7.0. I didn't want to hold off on installation of LTE, so now I'm going to live with 7.0.

This is what bugs me -- assuming you were on 6.2 with build 2.5.21 or newer*, they support LTE just fine, there's no need for a firmware update. I wonder if people firmly request not to upgrade the firmware, if the SCs will respect that?

*I'm sure earlier 6.2 builds support LTE, but I don't know the build number when it came out.
 
Yes, I know that the earlier 6.2 build supports LTE. I specifically asked the SC to remain on 6.2 if at all possible. He said he would check; he telephoned me later to tell me that as part of the LTE upgrade there is a firmware update required....don't know if that is a separate piece of firmware.....but he told me that they would have to install the 7.0. Since I wanted LTE, I told them to go ahead. So it is done. I'm not crazy about all the 7.0 "features", but my biggest peeves are the clock, lack of date/temp on the IC, small battery icon, and numbers on the analog speedo/pwr meter that are difficult to see.
 
Yes, I know that the earlier 6.2 build supports LTE. I specifically asked the SC to remain on 6.2 if at all possible. He said he would check; he telephoned me later to tell me that as part of the LTE upgrade there is a firmware update required....don't know if that is a separate piece of firmware.....but he told me that they would have to install the 7.0. Since I wanted LTE, I told them to go ahead. So it is done. I'm not crazy about all the 7.0 "features", but my biggest peeves are the clock, lack of date/temp on the IC, small battery icon, and numbers on the analog speedo/pwr meter that are difficult to see.

Well that blows... now I have to decide between getting LTE or staying with 6.2. yuck.
 
Of course, I do the exact opposite. I use full auto except make sure its always on recirculate except when its raining (then its fresh only). This doesn't give me any fogging and keeps the other smelly cars from intruding into my cabin.

I'll hit Recirc to deal with smell issues too, but where I live, the humidity combined with cooler temps will lead to bad fogging... and not just on the windshield. Side and rear windows will all start to fog over unless I keep it mostly on fresh air. This is nothing unique to Tesla. The same has been true of every other car I've owned. It's just that the Tesla seems to keep it on Recirc way more in Auto than on any of my other past cars.
 
That's interesting - I find my car keeps the air almost always on fresh air... and in fact I have rarely seen it set itself to recirc. I started a thread about this months ago (link). I'm quite curious what the (approximate) algorithm is for when the car decides to set itself to fresh vs recirc...
I'll hit Recirc to deal with smell issues too, but where I live, the humidity combined with cooler temps will lead to bad fogging... and not just on the windshield. Side and rear windows will all start to fog over unless I keep it mostly on fresh air. This is nothing unique to Tesla. The same has been true of every other car I've owned. It's just that the Tesla seems to keep it on Recirc way more in Auto than on any of my other past cars.
 
That's interesting - I find my car keeps the air almost always on fresh air... and in fact I have rarely seen it set itself to recirc. I started a thread about this months ago (link). I'm quite curious what the (approximate) algorithm is for when the car decides to set itself to fresh vs recirc...


To be fair, maybe I should check this again. It was bad for over a year after I got my car. I had horrible fogging issues until I discovered that Auto was keeping the car on Recirc most of the time. I now just over-ride the Air setting "by default". Except when it's hot, I manually set A/C Off and Air to Outside Air. I leave Fan and Mode on Auto for the most part.
 
Elon Musk on Twitter:

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Good news, classics. It appears we have the same drive units as single motor AP builds. So whatever it is that excludes us from the perf boost is external to the DU suggesting a retrofit might be feasible, if desired.
Source: 100% drive unit failure rate?? - Page 5
According to my notes I had a 1002633-01-M installed back in February and didn't get the Performance improvement release notes in case that helps anyone. It's not entirely clear if that's a post-AP drive unit or not based on the part listing.
 
According to my notes I had a 1002633-01-M installed back in February and didn't get the Performance improvement release notes in case that helps anyone. It's not entirely clear if that's a post-AP drive unit or not based on the part listing.

See the parts catalog listing here: 100% drive unit failure rate?? - Page 5

What's not clear to me is if 100xxx is a brand new unit and 102xxx is reman or if one has a "high speed encoder" and the other does not. Can someone else offer an interpretation of the parts catalogue?