Can you describe what is on the window, what it's like? I feel like ours have some kind of very light overspray over the whole thing - you only see 'speckles' in the right light but it's pretty much the whole window. It may also feel like something is on it, can't be sure.. thanks
Keep in mind this example is after paint correction and protection has been applied. But I think the Midnight Silver my wife chose is gorgeous.
Yes, it seems to be some coating that was not completely removed. It creates an annoying 'sparkle' in the sun. I've tried scrubbing with window cleaner multiple times, and it is difficult to remove. The glass doesn't feel clean and smooth. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Thanks for the clarification. I knew the hardware on the model 3 was AP2.5, but I wasn’t sure how to describe the software in a generic way. And yes, I far far prefer autopilot on my 2016 S with AP1 hardware to autopilot on my 2018 model 3. I’m hoping (and perhaps incorrectly assuming) that software updates will eventually reverse this preference.
I've had my Model 3 for six weeks now and your thoughts are quite similar to mine, especially in terms of the obvious UI fixes. I have owned a Model S since September, 2014 when I got one of the first AP1 vehicles. In December I upgraded to a 100D with AP2.5, which I agree is a step backward in a few ways. I look forward to having FSD features start to show up in both new cars. I'm guessing that will occur in the next couple of months. But, regardless, the Model 3 is an incredible car.
As far as the windshield film, I have used detailing clay on my windows for years. Amazing how much stuff it cleans off, and how crystal clear the windshield is afterwards. Us plenty of quick detailer for lubrication, and some windex after claying to get the clay residual totally removed.
I've not tried it myself, but I have seen it done with one finger. Take your index finger and push on the end where you thumb would go and then "hook" your fingertip in the opening and pull. It was in a video I saw somewhere. Looked like pretty fluid motion when they did it.
I have a MS75 solid roof, no options as in no rear hatch electric motors, has springs, just stripped down and it's very nimble compared to the MS D's and loaded versions I've driven as loaners. I can hang the ass out and have a lot of fun driving my car but not so much the D versions. I'd be interested to try my car against a M3.
Super useful info!! I’ll get my service center to fix this. Does the arm stick out too much on the bottom of rhe windshield after the adjustment?
Tiny bit more, yes. Only I would notice. And the tradeoff is worth it. The clean sweep windshield is more important than the bladearem at bottom being 1/4" to 1/2" higher.
Totally agree. Maybe I’ll try to pull the blade and adjust it myself. Clean sweep is totally worth the slightly protruding arm at rest.
About people using the "wrong" handle to open the front doors. Shouldn't Tesla be able to cause the windows to go down slightly when the manual door handle is used the same way they go down when using the correct door button?
Thanks for this thread! I'm am on the fence about getting in line for an M3 or an X. The feedback for a potential owner is great and does not scare me one bit. I am one step closer. My big fear is when I get it, my wife will just take it and leave me with her 2018 Prius! My son is currently 3D printing me a Tesla Supercharger cell phone cable holder from thingaverse....
I have a few updated reactions to using the locking related issues: 1. Using my iPhone as a key has failed to work on at least two occasions in the past week. Fortunately, I was still able to open the car using the Tesla app. 2. Even after turning off “unlock as you walk up,” the car still reacts to your presence by making irritating clunking sounds as you move around the garage. My S does not do this. Plugging in the Model 3 seems to minimize (and perhaps even eliminate) the issue, but IMO this should be unnecessary. Hopefully software updates will fix these (and other) issues.
RBowen, Car guys think alike. My resume is very similar to yours with 20 years of vintage racing thrown in, so (I think) I know how to interpret what you have told us. I'm doing the studies for the car for my wife because I love learning about new cars & tech. While she has decided that she wants a 'smaller' Tesla, cars are just utilities to her. We were lucky enough to get a 45 minute 'test ride' with a friend of my nephew. I had two major concerns. #1, Would the 'tech' overcome my wife? Probably not. #2, Is the car too harsh & jiggly? (I had a 2004 M3, the real BMW version. After her first drive in the car, [highway, not the twisties] she said she felt sick and never got in the car again.) After driving the car as a daily driver for a year, I finally agreed with her and sold it. I waited a year for a new model AMG a few years after that. The only test drive I had in that car was a quick ride with three large, heavy Merc reps. It felt fine, but I got it and found that it was too stiff & harsh to be an enjoyable daily driver. It wasn't punishing, just not pleasant. You and I know that all suspension tuning is a compromise somewhere between old school Cadillac and Formula One race car. Some manufacturers have the money, time, and engineering expertise to do a better job than others. So, where did I come out on the ride of the car? There aren't many pot holes or expansion joint around Foster City, CA. There were 4 of us in the car. I found it a bit too "wanna be sports car-ish", but still acceptable. BTW, have you tried a razor blade on the windshield? Thanks again for the great write-up.
My understanding is the emergency, interior door release is mechanical, while the interior button is electrical and connected to the electrical window. There is no way for a mechanical release to operate the electrical window in a power failure. DW had a VW convertible with a mechanical door release was connected to the electrical window to lower it upon entry or exit. One time the car lost power and when she entered the car, the window didn't go down that half inch. That turned out to be a $1000 repair bill!
@nutts1 - Maybe check your tire pressure? The first day we had our 3, I felt the rear tires spin a little bit when having fun accelerating into a turn, on dry, flat pavement. Turned out all the tires were at 48 PSI at delivery. Since lowering them to 45 I haven't had any slippage. I've heard brand new tires can also have a little residual oil on them which wears off after a couple hundred miles, so that may be a factor too?