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Fix your door that won't open

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Thans for your input. We ended up just using a hot glue gun to seal it. I got it back on and now the handle won't even come out so I suppose we will have the ranger fix it. Hopefully it don't cost the $1k per handle to fix but I'll find out tomorrow.

Need an update on the ranger fix... was it just that you didn't press together the main/power connectors at the handle firmly enough? Did the car "forget" about the handle somehow, requiring a re-boot, or re-calibration (ranger software tools)? .... curious!
 
Need an update on the ranger fix... was it just that you didn't press together the main/power connectors at the handle firmly enough? Did the car "forget" about the handle somehow, requiring a re-boot, or re-calibration (ranger software tools)? .... curious!

We can't get in for a couple of weeks and then he said he'd need 3 days to fix it. We will be dropping it off the 23rd and that's when we should know something.
 
I have a new door handle problem I've seen alluded to but not seen an explanation for. My handle (driver's) does not present, but there is a constant motor whirring sound that only stops when the fuse is pulled. Powering down the car from the center screen does not stop it. If I manually extract the handle, it will sometimes open the door and if it doesn't I can hold the handle out until the whirring motor partially engages it and feebly attempts to push it out, perhaps a third of the normal excursion.

I'm out of warranty with 122k miles and Denver service says it will take a couple weeks to get a handle ordered. I'm wondering what the mechanism of failure might be from those who have dissembled theirs and if it is likely a DIY fix if I decide to unbutton the door. It sounds like something metal may be loose or detached. Another factor is that I'm 500 miles from service.

Thanks for any possible theories or suggestions!
 
I have a new door handle problem I've seen alluded to but not seen an explanation for. My handle (driver's) does not present, but there is a constant motor whirring sound that only stops when the fuse is pulled. Powering down the car from the center screen does not stop it. If I manually extract the handle, it will sometimes open the door and if it doesn't I can hold the handle out until the whirring motor partially engages it and feebly attempts to push it out, perhaps a third of the normal excursion.

I'm out of warranty with 122k miles and Denver service says it will take a couple weeks to get a handle ordered. I'm wondering what the mechanism of failure might be from those who have dissembled theirs and if it is likely a DIY fix if I decide to unbutton the door. It sounds like something metal may be loose or detached. Another factor is that I'm 500 miles from service.

Thanks for any possible theories or suggestions!

Only fix is a door handle motor replacement. That's the motor running that your hearing but it has broken the teeth that push or pull the handle in our out. I've not heard of anyone actually fixing that part without replacing the whole thing. Sorry we have the same issue with our car. I wish Tesla would give us the option to be left pushed out all the time then we wouldn't have this issue.
 
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I have a new door handle problem I've seen alluded to but not seen an explanation for. My handle (driver's) does not present, but there is a constant motor whirring sound that only stops when the fuse is pulled. Powering down the car from the center screen does not stop it. If I manually extract the handle, it will sometimes open the door and if it doesn't I can hold the handle out until the whirring motor partially engages it and feebly attempts to push it out, perhaps a third of the normal excursion.

I'm out of warranty with 122k miles and Denver service says it will take a couple weeks to get a handle ordered. I'm wondering what the mechanism of failure might be from those who have dissembled theirs and if it is likely a DIY fix if I decide to unbutton the door. It sounds like something metal may be loose or detached. Another factor is that I'm 500 miles from service.

Thanks for any possible theories or suggestions!

If you are buying a new handle out-of-warranty, the old one is yours to keep.

So KEEP IT.

I would like to examine the part and help determine if there's a potential DIY fix for this problem.

I will PM you.
 
Only fix is a door handle motor replacement. That's the motor running that your hearing but it has broken the teeth that push or pull the handle in our out. I've not heard of anyone actually fixing that part without replacing the whole thing. Sorry we have the same issue with our car. I wish Tesla would give us the option to be left pushed out all the time then we wouldn't have this issue.

Thanks--just the answer I was looking, but not hoping, for! I'll use the string trick for the time being.

If you are buying a new handle out-of-warranty, the old one is yours to keep.

So KEEP IT.

I would like to examine the part and help determine if there's a potential DIY fix for this problem.

I will PM you.

Thanks, Scott--sounds like a plan. It sort of reminds me of replacing worn plastic gears on the garage door opener.
 
This seems like as good a thread as any to ask this.

Any tips on how to get them to replace the handle when you are still under warranty, but they can't reproduce the issue at the service center? My driver's handle presents but sometimes doesn't open the door when I pull it, it just goes back in, then presents again and works the second time... This issue was happening once every couple weeks, but it's happened at least 3 times in less than a week now. I've sent the local Tesla service center the date and time that it's happened but they said there are no error logs and they can't replace it unless they can reproduce it.

Has anyone gotten them to replace the handles without it happening at the service center? Maybe by taking video of it not working or something? It's not a huge issue right now since it's always worked the second time, but it's going to get more frustrating the more it happens. In my case it always seems to happen at lunch or the end of a work day, I'll walk up to the car, the handle presents but pulls back in then works fine after re-presenting.
 
This seems like as good a thread as any to ask this.

Any tips on how to get them to replace the handle when you are still under warranty, but they can't reproduce the issue at the service center?

Video wouldn't hurt... but are you going to video each time you try opening though? If frequency of occurrence increases to the point of nuisance it will become easier catch!


My driver's handle presents but sometimes doesn't open the door when I pull it, it just goes back in, then presents again and works the second time... This issue was happening once every couple weeks, but it's happened at least 3 times in less than a week now.

Has anyone gotten them to replace the handles without it happening at the service center? Maybe by taking video of it not working or something? It's not a huge issue right now since it's always worked the second time, but it's going to get more frustrating the more it happens. In my case it always seems to happen at lunch or the end of a work day, I'll walk up to the car, the handle presents but pulls back in then works fine after re-presenting.

This has happened to me too. On rare occasion. All other doors are still presenting...but the one I pull does a retract instead of open the door, then presents again, then my pull opens it. Always just the one door too... driver's side rear.

It happens so infrequently that I consider it just a weird software glitch that might have come down with some small version OTA. It definitely has not done this for the whole life of the car.. just started one day within the last 6 months maybe. It's most likely to happen when I have been driving, park, get out, shut driver's door, go to rear door, pull. When I'm grabbing my gym bag from the back seat. Which I could take as a sign or hint from the car that I should not be working out as much. Hmm.
 
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This seems like as good a thread as any to ask this.

Any tips on how to get them to replace the handle when you are still under warranty, but they can't reproduce the issue at the service center? My driver's handle presents but sometimes doesn't open the door when I pull it, it just goes back in, then presents again and works the second time... This issue was happening once every couple weeks, but it's happened at least 3 times in less than a week now. I've sent the local Tesla service center the date and time that it's happened but they said there are no error logs and they can't replace it unless they can reproduce it.

Has anyone gotten them to replace the handles without it happening at the service center? Maybe by taking video of it not working or something? It's not a huge issue right now since it's always worked the second time, but it's going to get more frustrating the more it happens. In my case it always seems to happen at lunch or the end of a work day, I'll walk up to the car, the handle presents but pulls back in then works fine after re-presenting.
I had this happen. I lived with it for a few weeks until it got worse and the door usually wouldn't open when the handle was pulled. Made an appointment with a service center to have it fixed (meant an overnight in a motel and I waited the next day during the service because of the huge distance involved: 378 miles each way). They tried to replace the micro switches but that didn't fix the problem so they put on a new handle instead. And checked over the car, replaced an old style fob, checked an error code I had seen, washed the car (it hadn't been that clean since I got it). I was pretty pleased with the service.

Just my experience, I went to a low volume service center: Salt Lake City. YMMV.
 
We got lucky yesterday. We had a motor go out on our rear passenger side door handle and the Kansas City Service Center replaced just the motor part of the door handle. The service agent stated that they rarely carry that part. So there does appear to be a fix IF you can find the part. Cost us $200 instead of nearly $1000
 
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It seems everyone has its own failure scenario so here is mine, on a rear door of a Classic 2013 TMS.

Car is set to automatically present driver's door only. When applying a second unlock command (either by pushing the key FOB again, by using the central touch screen, by going to Parking mode or by opening another door from inside), the rear right door opens (i.e. the door handle extracts AND the door unlocks and opens).

Could this be linked to one of the two micro switches discussed in this thread?
 
It seems everyone has its own failure scenario so here is mine, on a rear door of a Classic 2013 TMS.

Car is set to automatically present driver's door only. When applying a second unlock command (either by pushing the key FOB again, by using the central touch screen, by going to Parking mode or by opening another door from inside), the rear right door opens (i.e. the door handle extracts AND the door unlocks and opens).

Could this be linked to one of the two micro switches discussed in this thread?

Early gen 1 handles had this problem, they trigger their own "pull handle" switch when presenting, if the handle gets out of calibration (really narrow tolerances). These handles are wired differently but still use micro switches.. I don't think it's a broken wire. It's calibration. If this is in warranty press for newer gen handle replacement. Even if out of warranty, doors popping themselves open is a safety item so you've got a strong case for getting a goodwill fix on that door... possibly, all around the car.