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Fix your door that won't open

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Shouldn't have to remove the window. I've done all four doors without so.

Pulling chrome trim off door, and undoing the lower window regulator beam bolt... creates enough slack to move window over a bit to get a ratchet box end wrench on the bolts you need to get at.

I noticed that too, it does work that way. It was just only a tiny bit more work to remove the window than just to push it out of the way and seemed a whole bunch easier to do the task. Maybe I just don't have very good coordination!
 
Driver’s door handle presents, but got stubborn about opening, then finicky, then refused.

I picked up the $41 harness today on the way home, thanks to this thread. They tossed in half a dozen trim clips for the asking.

Anyone else work around this by pulling the seatbelt forward and hooking it behind the inside door handle, so as to open easily from the back door? ‘cause that’s what I’ve been doing.

Thanks for the info on this DIY everyone.
 
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Anyone else work around this by pulling the seatbelt forward and hooking it behind the inside door handle, so as to open easily from the back door? ‘cause that’s what I’ve been doing.

.. good one!

When my driver's door went, I tied a rope to the handle and strung it across the front seat to get it open from the passenger side.

The most hi-tech car in the parking lot at work... with a rope handle. Way cool.
 
.. good one!

When my driver's door went, I tied a rope to the handle and strung it across the front seat to get it open from the passenger side.

The most hi-tech car in the parking lot at work... with a rope handle. Way cool.
That was my thought too. I went and had another thought. By the time I was planning a strap anchored to the floor that I could reach from the back door, I finally had the facepalm moment. Tesla had already installed one for me!
 
Good news I think - I've discovered that pulling "up" on my door handle opens the door without fuss. Who knows how long that will last? I did get an appointment at the SC in 2 weeks to have it fixed along with my new windshield. Ordered the new struts to fix the dreaded suspension rattle too - hoping the parts come in on time.
 
Before I start taking things apart to attempt this repair (awesome guidance and videos/pictures here), I wanted to confirm that the "symptoms" I'm seeing could be caused by bad microswitches or wiring:

All handles present properly, and LED "puddle lights" illuminate properly.
But the rear door (driver's side) won't open when I pull on the extended/presented outside handle. There's zero movement of the door or any sound of it unlatching.

However if I try opening that same door from the INSIDE door pull, the door seems to unlatch but only opens about 1/4 inch and won't open the rest of the way. I can then push on the door to get it back in and latched so I can drive the car.

I'm concerned because nobody else in this thread has mentioned malfunctioning of the INSIDE door opening handle as well as the outside one. Does a malfunctioning inside handle mean my car has a different problem? Would malfunctioning microswitches in the outside handle controller also affect the INSIDE handle operation of the door?

Thanks!
 
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Inside rear door-handles are electronically activated (vs front doors that are mechanical, via a cable). There is a manual release in the carpet below the rear seats. Try that as a troubleshooting step, but it sounds to me like a failure of the electronics or the little motorized unlatcher (I'm sure that's not what its called).

I've never seen failed microswitches present that way,
 
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Reactions: SW2Fiddler
Does anyone know what the 2013 Model S handle part number from Tesla, or where I can get this micro switch part to repair the door not opening from the outside?
 

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I ordered this from Digikey, 4.16$ a piece a couple of years ago (compared to 1300$ for a handle replacement at Tesla!!) However, you need to solder the contacts and as a result, they are unsealed. (I put hot glue to seal it and it works so far after 2 years, but it might not be as reliable as proper electronics jacket sealing.) I think Tesla Service sells already soldered and sealed switches for ~30$.
 
Wow! The last month has been fun.

In December I accidentally shut the back drivers side door with the handle. It immediately retracted and stopped presenting. I knew exactly what I did, broke the paddle. The good news was that the part from the service center was about $1.34. When I went to pick it up they said Merry Christmas and gave it to me for free. Wasn't that bad of a fix since I'd already done the micro switch in the drivers door a year ago.

Everything was fine until last weekend. Saturday evening I noticed that the passenger side back make a high pitch whine when presenting and the passenger front didn't present. The very next day on Sunday when my wife was out shopping and came back to the car the Drivers side front didn't present. I knew the issue and how to fix, but how in the world could all that have happened in 1 single 24hr period! The nice thing was that on Monday I was able to get the parts from Tesla for a couple $ and do the fix that evening.

So far in my 2014 I've had 2 micro-switches and 3 paddles replaced. The first micro-switch was under warranty and they replaced the whole assembly. When taking it out recently I noticed that it was thicker than the other driver's side and as such had wear marks where the window would rub on it. Coincidentally the rubbing was right where the Micro-switch wire was run. I fixed that wire route before reinstalling this week.

This weekend's events have me thinking that it may have been someone messing with my car. Has anyone heard of people trying to jar the doors of a locked car or simply vandalizing Tesla's by pushing on and over stressing the handles which in turn breaks the paddle or causes damage to the motors?
 
Hello TMC,
I'm driving a Model S P85 Signature. Right now driver's door handle presents but won't open the door.
I can open the door from the inside with no problems at all.
Another thing I realized is that when the door is opened I'm listening like a motor with no end. Sound attached
I'm afraid that not solving the problem only with wire and switch repair for that sound
Thank you for helping
 
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Reactions: Bighorn
Hello TMC,
I'm driving a Model S P85 Signature. Right now driver's door handle presents but won't open the door.
I can open the door from the inside with no problems at all.
Another thing I realized is that when the door is opened I'm listening like a motor with no end. Sound attached
I'm afraid that not solving the problem only with wire and switch repair for that sound
Thank you for helping
Have you seen that site that sells the rebuild kits?
 
Hello TMC,
I'm driving a Model S P85 Signature. Right now driver's door handle presents but won't open the door.
I can open the door from the inside with no problems at all.
Another thing I realized is that when the door is opened I'm listening like a motor with no end. Sound attached
I'm afraid that not solving the problem only with wire and switch repair for that sound
Thank you for helping

Call your local SC and they may cover the repair as Goodwill work. I just had mine done on 14 S
 
My 2012 Signature P85 passenger door handle just stopped presenting. These handles have been replaced by Tesla in the past so I'm not sure which Gen I have. The pressure sensor is working, when I touch the handle all the other doors present and I can hear the motor spin trying to present.

Is this the symptoms of a failed paddle? I plan to DIY the repair.

I wrapped my door handles in carbon fiber vinyl a week ago. I don't think there's any interference... But has anyone else noticed vinyl wrapped handles failing more quickly?