actually, you missed the point. You can’t always plan a tax liability. My income is all taxed. Someone else may have zero taxable income in a year. It is able to be planned if you have an option where you draw your income. Or maybe this person has a sizable inheritance from years ago and is living off of it. Again no income tax this year. You do not know everyone’s situation.
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For AWD owners wanting a P3D-
- Thread starter Urbancowboy
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actually, you missed the point. You can’t always plan a tax liability. My income is all taxed. Someone else may have zero taxable income in a year. It is able to be planned if you have an option where you draw your income. Or maybe this person has a sizable inheritance from years ago and is living off of it. Again no income tax this year. You do not know everyone’s situation.
i seriously doubt someone who can buy a 60k car doesn't have enough diversified sources of income to find some tax somewhere ..
we're only talking about a 7.5k liability -- its peanuts.
even if you live off an inheritance -- that estate (or trust) or whatever has taxable events .. plan to pass them through so you can offset. --
its harder to avoid taxes than generating them ..
@ras2247 @Knightshade
My car in July 2018 was 79,500.
Today it is 65,990.
With complete basic math, that is a 13,510 delta.
Take away 12.5K, it's like $1000 in difference.
Adding up things like Homelink, Premium Connectivity, Connectors, etc makes it a wash.
There's a few number manipulations such as taxes+registration on actual sales price but it's a petty *sugar* thing to argue over.
Depending on options picked, maximum delta is like $5,000 if you took the $1875 credit right now. All in, that's less than the sales tax paid on the car.
Really a small amount to cry over given the big picture. Being able to drive a 3P 18 months longer than a new buyer today carries > 0 value as well.
If you took the $5,000 FUSC refund, you also got the sales tax % of that $5,000 as well. This is why you have to assume no sales tax to create apples to apples comparison.
My car in July 2018 was 79,500.
Today it is 65,990.
With complete basic math, that is a 13,510 delta.
Take away 12.5K, it's like $1000 in difference.
Adding up things like Homelink, Premium Connectivity, Connectors, etc makes it a wash.
There's a few number manipulations such as taxes+registration on actual sales price but it's a petty *sugar* thing to argue over.
Depending on options picked, maximum delta is like $5,000 if you took the $1875 credit right now. All in, that's less than the sales tax paid on the car.
Really a small amount to cry over given the big picture. Being able to drive a 3P 18 months longer than a new buyer today carries > 0 value as well.
If you took the $5,000 FUSC refund, you also got the sales tax % of that $5,000 as well. This is why you have to assume no sales tax to create apples to apples comparison.
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... or that you live in a state (NJ) with $0 sales tax on EVs.
(I have no dog in this hunt; just wanted to rub salt in the wound and brag about our lack of sales tax.... sorry
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Looks like your prayers have been answered!
OTA upgrade for M3 AWD owners to go 0-60 in 3.9 sec. $2k!
OTA upgrade for M3 AWD owners to go 0-60 in 3.9 sec. $2k!
Who knows if this will do anything, but I thought it would be fun to try.
Sign the Petition
Sign it, share it, and tweet it to Elon and Tesla, and let’s see what happens
Sherlo
Member
Attachments
You can look at my spreadsheet above to do the full math. You're welcome to post your own itemized spreadsheet and we can compare and contrast. I always like well reasoned (and well intentioned) discussions. I'd be the last person to cry over what we I spent. However facts are still facts and forum bullies need to be challenged.
Also you do need to include taxes to do an apples to apples comparison - the federal credit for example comes out after taxes, so by ignoring sales tax, you are understating the delta. Sorry but I am nitpicky about math accuracy, having gone to perhaps the most well regarded school for finance/economics.
As a side note, this is all irrelevant to the thread topic, which is AWD power increase. Maybe there's a way to move our posts to a pricing related discussion.
Let'd do this:
If you could please post your MPVA. Here is mine. If a few others from CA can post theirs, we will get right down to the dollar difference?
One thing you HAVE to include is the option to give back FUSC for $5,000*1.0XX (tax paid). The person buying the 3P today does not get FUSC.
86,454.25 - 7500 = 78,954.25
78,954.25 - 5,462.5 (FUSC) = 73,491.75
73,491.75 - 546.25 (Homelink+Mats+Cables) = 72,945.5
If someone in California can post their 3P, Black/White with FSD, we'll get down to the exact dollar delta between July 2018 and Dec 2019.
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EfficientWatts
Member
@ras5500 and @Knightshade both of ya'll are talking like politicians right now and shouting over each other. looking at both of your replies. it looks like both of ya'll are technically correct, for your specific situation and consideration.
sometimes, you gotta remember that there can be more than one correct answer, especially when you factor in the state you live in, the consideration of the rebates, etc.
it is clear knightshade, for the person's situation, did come out ahead in buying in 2018 vs 2020. it is clear that ras5500, for their situation, would have come out ahead with a 2020 purchase for their situation.
i hope the mods really clean up this thread...
sometimes, you gotta remember that there can be more than one correct answer, especially when you factor in the state you live in, the consideration of the rebates, etc.
it is clear knightshade, for the person's situation, did come out ahead in buying in 2018 vs 2020. it is clear that ras5500, for their situation, would have come out ahead with a 2020 purchase for their situation.
i hope the mods really clean up this thread...
Bro, was your "well regarded" school teaching you math or maffs? I see it didn't teach you reading comprehension or how to use a spreadsheet. You see, the spreadsheet does the maff for you. Start from the top left corner (your left, not my left) and count over 3 boxes, then down 2 boxes. That's called C2. Then you want to add up all the boxes down to the 8th box which is C8. Here type this into the C9 box: =SUM(C2:C8). See you got it! There's great YouTube videos on how to use a spreadsheet that you should check out. I should also let you know that the post you were referencing was referring to a 2020 delivery which affects the tax credit.
Can we please make a new thread on this math stuff and value of performance then and today. Next y’all wanna start talking about CPO cars. Can we just talk about the software uncork here please.
Sooo.....returning to the uncorking....
I keep hearing that the 0-60 is 'better', but the 40-90 is MUCH better.... that's interesting, because it was my impression that the AWD and P were(in the past) basically the same after 40, or even 30...
If the 40-90 has indeed become much better, does that mean that the boosted AWD is now better accelerating after 40 than a P?
I should note that I have no interest in track mode... unless one plans to actually track the car, there's no point, IMHO.
I keep hearing that the 0-60 is 'better', but the 40-90 is MUCH better.... that's interesting, because it was my impression that the AWD and P were(in the past) basically the same after 40, or even 30...
If the 40-90 has indeed become much better, does that mean that the boosted AWD is now better accelerating after 40 than a P?
I should note that I have no interest in track mode... unless one plans to actually track the car, there's no point, IMHO.
MagnusMako,
Thank you for posting these times!
If your 11.86 1/4 mile time in the AWD+ is accurate, that seems to be P3D speed. The best 1/4 mile time I was able to find on YouTube was 11.685 for a P3D. Can you please confirm that your 11.86 was in a standard AWD with the new speed boost? If so, that is amazing and definitely worth 2K IMO.
11.685
11.72
11.90
All these people talking about track mode probably has never been to one. They just want the clout.
so yeah...been banging on the car a couple of days now and it’s been a joy. Reminds me of back in my turbo days. Just downshift a gear and hear the motor spool the turbo and just tap the gas. It feels like now the car just wants to be unleashed. The pedal is cocaine now.
also how’s y’all’s efficiency. It’s been honestly better for a lack of words. I’ve been getting about 20 miles per 10% which i was about 25 miles and I’ve been on it from every stop light to on/off ramp. Oem 19s
I'm wondering if Tesla kept the 0-60 speed down to appease the P owners, but turned up the 40-90.... If that's true, the P owners should expect a 'ludicrous' boost(paid) to get the P's 40-90 to match the boosted AWD's.
I do not have the apps or tools to run tests in my car, but the biggest difference that I feel after the boost is punching it when already going about 30-40MPH. I tested this getting on I-95 yesterday. 0-30 feels faster, but 30-90 feels way faster.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Nope... since the last 5% update folks have been hitting 11.4ish in a P and have posted draggy results on here showing such.
https://ww.electrek.co/2019/11/14/t...cceleration-dips-below-3-sec-software-update/
11.48 in that video for example
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