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Forged vs cast aluminum wheels ?

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What is the benifit of the forged rims? They cost more so I assume they are better. But I run aluminum rims on my other car to help keep the weight of and I have never had a issue. Do the aluminum rims offer better milage due to power:weight ratio ?
 
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What is the benifit of the forged rims? They cost more so I assume they are better. But I run aluminum rims on my other car to help keep the weight of and I have never had a issue. Do the aluminum rims offer better milage due to power:weight ratio ?

Both are aluminum. But the method of manufacture is different. Forged rims have higher strength and lower weight than standard cast rims. They are harder to manufacture.
 
Lighter wheels have the potential of reducing the power required because there is linear, vertical, and angular inertia that the motor must overcome rather than just linear inertia. However, unless the weight difference is very great (resulting in a cost difference that is also very great) the end result will require some really sensitive equipment to show the difference. This is because the wheel is closer to the centre of rotation than the tire so it's easily overpowered by tire choice.
 
Lighter wheels have the potential of reducing the power required because there is linear, vertical, and angular inertia that the motor must overcome rather than just linear inertia. However, unless the weight difference is very great (resulting in a cost difference that is also very great) the end result will require some really sensitive equipment to show the difference. This is because the wheel is closer to the centre of rotation than the tire so it's easily overpowered by tire choice.

It sounds a little complicated. But I kinda understand it from racing classes. Although this is one of those time I wish i furthered my education. Lol. The casted rims from TMC must be lighter? 2200 cost difference can't be all labor ? Anyone bent those cast rims? I see them on roadsters.... But like most, im sure those roadsters have less than 10 or 15 thousand miles on them. So sad!!
 
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I have bent both the forged and cast rims. It doesn't take much. The forged are supposed to be stronger. That may be true but not by much.

It sounds a little complicated. But I kinda understand it from racing classes. Although this is one of those time I wish i furthered my education. Lol. The casted rims from TMC must be lighter? 2200 cost difference can't be all labor ? Anyone bent those cast rims? I see them on roadsters.... But like most, im sure those roadsters have less than 10 or 15 thousand miles on them. So sad!!
 
  • Funny
Reactions: Mark77a
...The casted rims from TMC must be lighter?...
The other way around actually. Forging makes the aluminum stronger and so you can have less spoke material for the same strength. So forged wheels tend to be lighter, but cost more.


Cast Wheels vs Forged Wheels | HRE Performance Wheels | Luxury Street Motorsport
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Forging
Forged wheels are different in that they start out as aluminum billet, typically 6-7 inch diameter bar stock. These are then cut into the right length (the volume needed), heated, and pressed into shape (using very accurate dies and successive steps) under about 6-12000 tons of pressure. The forging process imparts a lot of energy into the metal and changes the internal grain structure of the aluminum (metals have a crystalline structure) and this change in the grain structure is what gives a forging additional strength in comparison to the original billet rod. They are then heat treated to a T6 condition in the case of 6061-T6 to get the right mix of strength and ductility. A forged aluminum wheel has a higher specific strength as well as higher toughness (engineering term for its ability to absorb energy) in comparison to a casting. This allows an engineer to design a wheel that is lighter, stiffer and less susceptible to cracking under impact and with better fatigue properties than a casting...
 
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Reactions: dhrivnak
> casted rims [jbini1]

If the rim weighs around 16 pounds it had better be forged. Around 21 pounds cast is commonplace. Max weight info on spoke is usually around 1700 pounds per rim, sufficient for any Tesla IMHO. If you seriously hit a curb any rim is gonna be toast, forged or otherwise.

Snow is now on the mountaintops, so the G6 rims with snow treads are going on the Roadster soon. All that bodacious chrome - but I'm trusting the hill folk will understand.
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Some special sport package for Prius includes forged wheels.

They make sure everyone knows you got the special wheels:
forged.jpg



http://www.esi-group.com/products/casting/Etips/e-tips/eTip16.pdf
 
What is the benifit of the forged rims? They cost more so I assume they are better. But I run aluminum rims on my other car to help keep the weight of and I have never had a issue. Do the aluminum rims offer better milage due to power:weight ratio ?



I changed brake pads today so I weighed the wheels. I have a set of both unused cast and used lighter weight forged ones on the car. Both were supplied by Tesla UK.

The front 16" forged wheel with part worn tyre weighed in at 14.9 kg.
An used 16" cast wheel with unused tyre weighs 18.0 kg

Difference of about 18% lighter.


The rear 17" forged wheel with part worn tyre weight in at 18.1 kg
The rear 17" cast wheel with new tyre weighed 22.2kg

Difference of about 19%.

Hope this helps ..


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ETA :-

I was putting new Carbotech AX6 pads on my car today. I've compared the thickness of pad material of the new pads to the 1st/original set that came off around 25k and the originals had very very little wear on them, like 1mm missing from about 7 or 8mm thickness. The discs were not worn much either. Amazing what regen can save you :)
 
I've heard where Forged rims bend and get damaged striking a pot hole, Carbon Fiber rims today exhibit no damage at all. The CF absorbs shock, so less stress when getting jarred by road imperfections. Also a smoother ride since much of the road rattle and banging does not transfer from the road to the wheel and through the car. They use CF wheels on motorcycles and street wheels today. Only negative side is the cost. If you curb-rash them as long as the CF weave is not damaged they're ok, but once the weave has been damaged they're pretty much done and not sure if they can be repaired.
 
You'll have to do your homework and start contacting carbon rim manufacturers if you're interested. Need to know the bolt pattern size, offset, and size you want to run. I can tell you this right now, nobody will be making them nor will they be any off the shelf due to the odd / limited wheels made with our bolt pattern size. You'll need to ask someone to custom make them and that's going to cost you.
 
I bought Kinesis K108 forged 3 PC wheels in 2013 (20" x 8.5"). Every single winter here in Michigan since then, pothole strikes have bent my wheel lips. Usually BOTH on the side where the pothole strike happens. I've used my $500 deductible insurance to replace the rims in 2014, 2015, I skipped 2016 because I only bent one wheel and it was not that noticeable, and just now this year two wheels are badly bent again after a hidden pothole strike.

They are custom painted and have a long lead time to manufacturer. The damage is extremely noticeable because I have a custom machined pin stripe around the outer circumference (which has to be done at a separate facility and costs $200 per wheel).

I am sick and tired of the time, expense, and frustration. Each wheel costs $1,500.00 to replace (due to the custom painting and pin stripe), plus the time to take pictures and document everything. Two wheels is $3,000.00 plus shipping, the $500 deductible of course helps a lot, but I have to document EVERYTHING, take pictures of EVERYTHING, plus my insurance wants me to file a claim with the township (again where I have to document EVERYTHING), which they always reject, but my insurance wants a physical copy of the rejection.

I think I am going to replace them with Lexani (which has owned Kinesis since like 2007 now anyways) cast rims instead, because this just isn't worth it. I really like Lexani Lust.

Here is damage from 2014, this pothole strike happened at about 40 mph:

Side01Day.jpg



I hit the pothole at night when the road was wet and the pothole wasn't visible. For insurance I came back during the daylight and took a picture of it:

PotholeDay01.jpg



I would say having the experience that I did, I would only use forged wheels for track or areas where roads are in very good condition. I've heard that if you get a smaller wheel (18") and inflate the tire a little more (to say 38 or 39 psi) it might help, but I've also read that it isn't going to make a difference if you hit a big enough pothole, which we have every winter on our REALLY bad Michigan roads.