Has anyone tried this set of two controllers with single wireless receiver?
https://www.amazon.com/C-Zone-Wireless-Controller-Joystick-2003VISTA/dp/B06XBCRN3X
https://www.amazon.com/C-Zone-Wireless-Controller-Joystick-2003VISTA/dp/B06XBCRN3X
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Found Wireless Adapater/game Controller Combination For Tesla Arcade Atari Games
- Thread starter DCEV
- Start date
I haven't tried this but I would love to know if they work. I prefer the PS4 controller to the Xbox One controller personally.
Sadly, I can now confirm that these controllers are not recognized by my Model 3 running 2019.32.11 bac8c51.
The little wireless receiver plugs into the USB port, the controller LEDs show that they're connected to the receiver, but the car doesn't recognize that anything has been plugged in -- won't run Cuphead.
The little wireless receiver plugs into the USB port, the controller LEDs show that they're connected to the receiver, but the car doesn't recognize that anything has been plugged in -- won't run Cuphead.
strykeroz
Member
I just picked up a pair of Logitech F710 wireless gamepads (Australian retailer EBgames have them marked down 40% at the moment). They come with a compact USB bluetooth adapter and seem to work great even with the console shut so no need for line-of-sight as some have reported with others.
So far have only tried beach buggy single player but have a 2nd one to "test" with my boys later.
With these wireless controllers there's no obvious way to power them off completely, aside from removing the cells. They go to a low power state when there's no activity, but does that mean they'll stay running if the USB bluetooth adapter is plugged into the car permanently? Next week I've got one of the Jeda USB hubs arriving, and I was hoping to keep them in the two USB A sockets, have the SSD inside, and power the two phones from the USB-C sockets. Just wondering if I need to keep the AA's removed when the controllers are stored in the glovebox as a precaution, or how the experience of the brains trust here has been for battery life...thanx.
So far have only tried beach buggy single player but have a 2nd one to "test" with my boys later.
With these wireless controllers there's no obvious way to power them off completely, aside from removing the cells. They go to a low power state when there's no activity, but does that mean they'll stay running if the USB bluetooth adapter is plugged into the car permanently? Next week I've got one of the Jeda USB hubs arriving, and I was hoping to keep them in the two USB A sockets, have the SSD inside, and power the two phones from the USB-C sockets. Just wondering if I need to keep the AA's removed when the controllers are stored in the glovebox as a precaution, or how the experience of the brains trust here has been for battery life...thanx.
I bought the Mayflash MAGIC-NS adapter, and it wasn't until I tried pairing it with my XBox 360 controller, failed, and did a bunch of google searching and manual reading that I figured out that XBox 360 controllers are only supported with the Mayflash if you set its LED to green and connect a "Microsoft Xbox 360 Wireless Receiver for Windows" to its USB port. Not wanting to spend another $45 on this project just for that simple 2.4GHz receiver (I think that's what it is), I decided to try this $19 generic clone. It appears to work -- I can finally run cuphead in my Model 3 with a wireless controller. I'll try it with Beach Buggy and also will try pairing a second controller.
strykeroz
Member
Minor update as have been living with these and the Jeda hub now for about a month - they work great with Cuphead or Beach Buggy racing, I leave the two USB dongles plugged in all the time with the controllers in the glovebox with batteries in and so far still on the first cells so that appears good too.
The Jeda USB hub means the dongles are always plugged in, so we're always ready to go. All up this has worked a treat.
Which Xbox controller did you use? I tried this one with the Magic NS and it works for Asteroids but not Cuphead or Beach Buggy
https://www.amazon.ca/Xbox-One-Wireless-Controller-White/dp/B01GW3H3U8
Last edited by a moderator:
In case anyone finds themselves in a similar situation I figured out my problem. You need to set the Magic NS to green for PC input. Don't use the Xbox input. It works perfectly in all games now btw.
LakersCentral
Member
Just got a model 3 (feb 2020, os v10.2.8)
Tried pairing the magic-ns with my old xbox 360 controller, no luck. i tried every which method of pairing, with multiple controllers, in the car and on the computer. the hardware simply wouldn't communicate.
Here's what i bought:
Did I not get the right adapter? (I noticed there was a black one that was $50 vs $20 for the white) Has anyone have any luck with this combo? I'm bout to throw in the towel ;(
Tried pairing the magic-ns with my old xbox 360 controller, no luck. i tried every which method of pairing, with multiple controllers, in the car and on the computer. the hardware simply wouldn't communicate.
Here's what i bought:
Did I not get the right adapter? (I noticed there was a black one that was $50 vs $20 for the white) Has anyone have any luck with this combo? I'm bout to throw in the towel ;(
That's the right adapter, but I haven't tried with a Xbox 360 controller. It did work with the Xbox one controller. Did you updated the firmware on the adaptor?
It appears that all of the links have been stripped from the original--would you (or anyone) care to re-post the "working combination" of gear, please?
Anyone have updates to share since this was posted (nearly a year ago)? I've got a new MSLR+, s/w 2020.8.2.
Thank you!
Well, I found it in a quote of the original:
DCEV said:
Also, on the Tesla Forums, I found a post (from only a couple of days ago) saying that this wireless controller works flawlessly:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X4W9L8J
For <$20 bucks & no additional adapter required, I've got one on order to try it out--will report back how it works!
LakersCentral
Member
Yea, I think that one was mentioned in this thread too. Only 3 1/2 star rating, but free returns. think i'll take a shot at it as well.
Yea, updated the firmware... though the only change was added support for a newer xbox controller. Didn't like the lack of instructions either (clearly a Chinese product). Had to search online and watch some videos to figure out how to use / setup. Ultimately, didn't work with the 360 controllers anyways. Maybe there's a firmware update for the controllers (bought back in 2008), or maybe newer 360 controllers would work?
Yea, updated the firmware... though the only change was added support for a newer xbox controller. Didn't like the lack of instructions either (clearly a Chinese product). Had to search online and watch some videos to figure out how to use / setup. Ultimately, didn't work with the 360 controllers anyways. Maybe there's a firmware update for the controllers (bought back in 2008), or maybe newer 360 controllers would work?
Well, it arrived. Pairs up with zero drama. "How well is it working"...? Answer: I don't know. I took the earlier discussions on this thread to indicate the problems folks were having were the controller talking to the car & vice-versa in the first place; that's not my problem.
While it's clearly recognizing the controller, I have zero experience with any Tesla versions of these games, and some I've never even heard of. In "Cuphead," I get as far as the tutorial: I can "jump" no problem, but the "hold to jump high" doesn't seem to work, so I can't even get to the next trial item. I was able to use the Settings>>Controls menu in Cuphead to verify each button works/is recognized--but, again, apparently NOT the "hold" function??
In "Stardew Valley," I got into a menu (looked like a saved game menu, but with nothing in the queue), and nothing I did to the controller got me out.
Older arcade games seemed a mixed bag. "Centipede" worked pretty well; "Tempest" worked, albeit a bit awkward to control (that game really needs its original spinner); but "Breakout" is essentially uncontrollable (full left or full right with the slightest touch to the joystick--it's responding to the input, but it's "all or nothing").
QUESTIONS:
- Are these problems with this controller, or are these issues inherent to however they ported these games into the Tesla environment?
- The Home, Select, Menu, etc. buttons don't seem to be recognized--should they be?
- Are there any global-level settings for the controller that I can access, to change the sensitivity, or default buttons, etc? Barring that, can I change the buttons for games that don't have an explicit settings menu (such as I found in Cuphead)?
Thanks for any words of advice!
LakersCentral
Member
Got mine too. Basically no instructions, but none really needed I suppose. Feels like it could shatter if I squeezed strong enough.
This. Only game i tried was Beach Buggy, and it worked. I really haven't played that game much yet, though, so idk if all functions work. I was able to accelerate and fire all items picked up. Steering was very easy... much better than the car's wheel (which even at lowest sensitivity feels too touchy).
The instructions did indicate it can operate in different modes and that "PC360" mode was the default. I didn't yet try changing it to the "Android/PS3" mode, as i really haven't played it enough in the first mode or on the touchscreen to be able to tell any differences.
This. Only game i tried was Beach Buggy, and it worked. I really haven't played that game much yet, though, so idk if all functions work. I was able to accelerate and fire all items picked up. Steering was very easy... much better than the car's wheel (which even at lowest sensitivity feels too touchy).
The instructions did indicate it can operate in different modes and that "PC360" mode was the default. I didn't yet try changing it to the "Android/PS3" mode, as i really haven't played it enough in the first mode or on the touchscreen to be able to tell any differences.
Going to add my adventures to this thread in hopes to help others. I started by trying to pair my XBox One to the Magic NS with no success. Then I tried some old XBox 360 controller I have in a closet with similar levels of success. After these failures, I researched what XBox One controller the Magic NS controller was compatible with. I found that you have to have a controller that is compatible with the XBox One S. Microsoft switch to bluetooth with the One S and the Magic NS device is bluetooth only. Luckly when I found this out, I knew the PS3 used bluetooth. So I tried connecting my PS3 controllers, and they paired. But that wasn't the end of my issues. As some have mentioned it was rather spotty controls. But having really dug into understanding the Magic NS, I figured it was likely that I was in the wrong mode. I proceed to test each mode and found as also mentioned in this thread, Green is best.
TLDR - XBOX Controllers must be XBOX One S compatible.
PS3 Controllers work well with this setup.
Use the green mode on the Magic NS with the Model 3.
TLDR - XBOX Controllers must be XBOX One S compatible.
PS3 Controllers work well with this setup.
Use the green mode on the Magic NS with the Model 3.
bollar
Disgruntled Member
Thanks for the research on this. It was very helpful.
One thing I did note, which I thought confusing was the Magic NS didn't have "green" in its color cycle *unless* it was plugged into the car *and* a game was running. Very strange, and maybe it's cosmic rays, or just me, but I tried several times while connected to a PC and connected to the car without a game running with no success.
I also got caught up in the incompatible Xbox One controller issue, but found I did have an Xbox One S controller that I could use. If I didn't have controllers already, I would recommend the Logitech F750 or maybe a knockoff. That USB dongle is very compact and doesn't have any configuration requirements.
I wanted to share installation pictures with you. I decided to run one of the usb ports under the mats and to the front of the center console. There I connected an unpowered Aukey usb hub (not Anker, which didn't work). A bonus is that one port faces forward, which makes it easy to deal with a dash cam drive. (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPFKL4X/). The boxes at the bottom are a Cellular WiFi Hotspot attached to a battery pack. I found the car had no problem powering the sentry drive, hotspot and game controller at the same time. My experiments also indicated the Tesla Qi charger needs its own USB circuit (makes sense).
One thing I did note, which I thought confusing was the Magic NS didn't have "green" in its color cycle *unless* it was plugged into the car *and* a game was running. Very strange, and maybe it's cosmic rays, or just me, but I tried several times while connected to a PC and connected to the car without a game running with no success.
I also got caught up in the incompatible Xbox One controller issue, but found I did have an Xbox One S controller that I could use. If I didn't have controllers already, I would recommend the Logitech F750 or maybe a knockoff. That USB dongle is very compact and doesn't have any configuration requirements.
I wanted to share installation pictures with you. I decided to run one of the usb ports under the mats and to the front of the center console. There I connected an unpowered Aukey usb hub (not Anker, which didn't work). A bonus is that one port faces forward, which makes it easy to deal with a dash cam drive. (https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPFKL4X/). The boxes at the bottom are a Cellular WiFi Hotspot attached to a battery pack. I found the car had no problem powering the sentry drive, hotspot and game controller at the same time. My experiments also indicated the Tesla Qi charger needs its own USB circuit (makes sense).
Attachments
Reviving an old post, but to share my experience and maybe get some tips from others.
I've recently upgraded to MCU2, so got the games too. And indeed wanted to have wireless controllers working
With this in mind, I read TMC and purchased two Magic Mayflash-NS, in the hope of using the wireless controllers we have (PS4 & Xbox One) in house.
I've partial success.
1- Xbox one
Impossible to pair to the Mayflash, but above comments made me understand it is an "old" Xbox One, so without Bluetooth, so won't ever work. Thanks for the info btw.
2- PS4
I can pair them successfully, but I have this weird behaviour.
When paired, the MCU2 acts as if no controllers are connected: games like Cuphead, which require controllers, cannot be started (start is greyed out). Somehow, the controller is not seen. Only if I connect one controller with the USB cable, then I can start the game.
Here is the weird part: some games that work with both screen controls and controllers, like the most recent game, Sky Force Reloaded, will start (indeed, they don't mandate a controller), and once started, the controller is recognised and works perfectly. I tested in Stardew Valley, same: works perfectly. But Beach Rally does not. Only works with USB cables. Ain't it something.
So somehow, there is a software bug/feature (for me?) that makes the controller(s) "invisible" to games not loaded (like Cuphead).
Anyone else recognise this or found a solution?
I've recently upgraded to MCU2, so got the games too. And indeed wanted to have wireless controllers working
With this in mind, I read TMC and purchased two Magic Mayflash-NS, in the hope of using the wireless controllers we have (PS4 & Xbox One) in house.
I've partial success.
1- Xbox one
Impossible to pair to the Mayflash, but above comments made me understand it is an "old" Xbox One, so without Bluetooth, so won't ever work. Thanks for the info btw.
2- PS4
I can pair them successfully, but I have this weird behaviour.
When paired, the MCU2 acts as if no controllers are connected: games like Cuphead, which require controllers, cannot be started (start is greyed out). Somehow, the controller is not seen. Only if I connect one controller with the USB cable, then I can start the game.
Here is the weird part: some games that work with both screen controls and controllers, like the most recent game, Sky Force Reloaded, will start (indeed, they don't mandate a controller), and once started, the controller is recognised and works perfectly. I tested in Stardew Valley, same: works perfectly. But Beach Rally does not. Only works with USB cables. Ain't it something.
So somehow, there is a software bug/feature (for me?) that makes the controller(s) "invisible" to games not loaded (like Cuphead).
Anyone else recognise this or found a solution?
We bought the same model of wireless controllers. Plugged in the adapter and it says a controller is connected. However, the game doesn’t respond. Is there something else we need to do besides plug in the USB adapter?
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