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Fremont SC only drawing 10A on my car.

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I was at the ATM the other day and my card just wouldn't work and I couldn't get any cash. I did the two-thumbs reboot on it and BAM, Benjamins be flowing out of that slot.

I was walking my beagle and she just refused to actually go potty at the park. I begged her and ran around with her to get her in the mood, nothing. I rebooted using the two scroll wheels, and BAM, business concluded swiftly.

I was at work and this really big problem with substantial financial exposure was about to go sideways, even after a lean six sigma workout team did a black belt judo chop on it. To thumbs up on the buttons and a reboot, BAM ... zero-to-hero in 3.2 seconds.

- K
 
look at my posts #2 and #4 from this thread and my last one with a photo. You are correct, it said charging, not supercharging, and yes, I was at the factory in Fremont at the SuperChargers. And also had the same issue with my level 2 Siemans @ 30A only pulling half that around 12A.

So it wasn't the chargers as the problem, it's confirmed as the "Gateway" issue, resolved with a hard reboot, not the factory reset in the controls screen.
 
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I won't go so far as say confirmed, but it's likely the issue. I trust Tesla!
 
Ahh....thought all was well. Stopped at the SC today to top off for a drive to Santa Cruz today and she did it again. Won't draw full amps at the supercharger and reports a full charge complete at 51 miles and low SOC.

waiting as I type this for my loaner MS.

Sad, but I hope "black beauty" is ok.
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Internal battery fault issue. No other details now but something with the battery. Loaner battery just installed and original battery out for repair. That's all the detail I have now. I'm in Paris and my car was returned to my home in care of my visiting dad from NJ.
 
keeping this updated. Just returned from France and the car is still on the loaner battery that charges up to about 90% @ 240 odd miles. Pretty good for a loaner and maybe even better than my exisiting battery with now 57k miles on it. Should be another 3 weeks for the repair on my current battery. I'm a geek, so I will press and see if i can get an update on exactly what was done and if "root cause" RC is found.
 
keeping this updated. Just returned from France and the car is still on the loaner battery that charges up to about 90% @ 240 odd miles. Pretty good for a loaner and maybe even better than my exisiting battery with now 57k miles on it. Should be another 3 weeks for the repair on my current battery. I'm a geek, so I will press and see if i can get an update on exactly what was done and if "root cause" RC is found.

Thanks for keeping us posted. Don't believe anyone else has ever seen 240 at 90% on an 85 kWh.
 
My S85 charged to 244 at 90% when new. Now I only get 221 with 23k miles on the car and 2 range charges. It's dropping fast lately.

On 6.x? or a previous software version?

On previous versions, 240 was the number and my car hit it, but in 6.x the algorithm shifted a bit and now it's 238ish.
 
I did check with the loaner battery installed today before sending my dad off for two days to visit Napa and stay in SF before going back to NJ. At 90%, the loaner battery read 232 and since it's a loaner, I hit it up to 100% and it read 255 for rated. I have app screen shots if needed to prove.

I wonder. Would Tesla let me keep the loaner and they can have my repaired battery? Seems like the loaner batt is newer than my 50k+ mileage battery, perhaps fewer cycles? Who knows? I like the idea of asking Tesla service if this is doable.
 
So we're coming up on a month since the original battery swap for repair. The loaner battery has been working so well and still has more range than my 50k+ mile battery, I really wonder what was wrong with the original.

I might ask for the full report on the root cause/failure analysis. Perhaps I can get an 8D report?

haha i love working in batteries and Failure Analysis.
 
December 14, 2015: In the Fremont SC getting a few things taken care of:
- Drive door panel due bill, backup camera intermittent fail, drive door belt line sagging a little
- check up status on the battery repair

Well, now December, and nope battery is still out for repair. We can confirm it's not a bad contactor issue as that could have been fixed at the SC. I asked for a current failure status, but seriously doubt Tesla would share that.

Guess I just need to join them on the battery team!
 
I'm having the exact same problem. It just started hapenning today. It says charge complete at 52mi range, and won't take any more charge. Computer reset didn't do anything.

Update: They pulled the battery data from my car. They says they are getting multiple failures, so they are coming to tow the car to the SC.
 
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Butcher,

You my friend are about to receive either A) a new battery, or B) a reconditioned battery both of which are unconfirmed going to have better capacity than yours did before failing. My battery has been gone almost 3 months now and i don't really expect it will be fixed any time soon.

I suspect had it been a logic board or controller board inside the pack, these could have been replaced albeit not easily. (thus the 1 month repair time estimate)

That being said, your issue sounds the same as mine, and reminds me of my old Power tool battery development at PowerGenix (A battery company). Seems if since these batteries are "wired" in a series/parallel configuration, it's possible a fusable link blew in one or more banks in the pack, but the overall voltage trigger isn't killing the safety stop in the GG (Gas Gauging, see Texas Instruments for details). On charging, the system is triggering some kind of voltage/current/temperature value that stops charging at ~50 miles range. My guess is one or more of the "bad" banks of cells is hitting top of charge sooner, and now the whole pack becomes out of balance. This seemed to happen to me. Car was drivable but wouldn't supercharge and under any circumstance would stop at 50 miles range.

Needless to say, I didn't let it stay like this more than a day before bringing my car in for service.

Hey Elon, are you sure you don't want a battery guy like me helping with these awesome packs and reliability? Send me the GG file from my battery pack and I can tell you why the pack failed in <5 minutes. I just need the primary and secondary FC codes. (Yes Hex format is OK)