Front Collision TESLA P85. Repair and Troubleshooting Help Needed.

[Yauheni]

Hi everyone. Im pretty new to this forum. I have red a few threats from here and that's about it. Recently I got TESLA P85 which was hit on the front. So the now we are working on the body repairs while doing some troubleshooting on the electric problems. Basically when i received the car, it was dead. So i had to connect its 12V battery terminals from the front reinforcement to my other car to wake the car up. After it was connected, the dash and the screen light-up and there were 6 message errors: low coolant, battery many have to be replaced, car needs service, airbag, and 2 other ones that i cant remember now. Anyways, i was able to put the car in D mode, but the car didnt move at all. I didnt hear the click of the 400v battery solenoids, so I assume that the 400v battery was not turned ON. My car had dc-dc converted damaged, so I had to replace it and my signal connector is destroyed, therefore its not connected yet. I dont know whats the Signal Connector for exactly, but I assume its somehow important. Overall, i have some other connectors unplugged, like headlights and i think 2 other ones. So maybe thats the problem, not sure yet. I just throw the facts, something to think about why its not moving. The battery has about 170kW on it yet. So its shouldnt be a problem. BTW I connected both contacts of the the pyro fuse with a wire. I heard if its not connected then its not going to move.

Alright, Im pretty sure I will need Your Help and Advice.

Cheers

 

[green1]

Good luck with your project. I have heard that Tesla themselves are quite conservative about these sorts of repairs, and once the computer decides that the car is severely damaged, it may not allow the car to drive until Tesla gives it the ok (Could be why you couldn't get it to shift to "D" with the battery pack error and "needs service" error)

 

[Blu Zap]

@green1 +1
this has to be approved by Tesla. Sorry OC.

 

[Yauheni]

Yesterday I got it plugged in to a good 12V battery and these are the Error Messages that I got:
1. ABS Needs service
2. Regen Disabled
3. Key Battery Needs Replacing
4. Vehicle Coolant is Low
5. Car Needs Service (Car May Not Restart)
6. Stability Control Disabled
7. Traction Control Disabled.

My firmware is 5.8. Like I explained, when I put it to Drive or Rear it wont move. Also, there was a message, i dont remember when it was up on the dash, but it says - Car Off, and below it said Car Needs Service. Here are some pictures...

 

[Red Sage]

Yeah... Contact Tesla Motors, be sure to have the VIN on hand. Explain that you picked up a car on auction, possibly salvage, and need to have it checked out. They may ask you to have it towed to their Service Center for inspection. There may be a $100 fee, and they'll ask that you to sign a waiver. If they determine the vehicle is roadworthy, they'll let you know. If not, they'll explain what repairs are needed to make it so, or note it cannot be done safely. Then you can also find out if there is an authorized body shop that can get you replacement parts. Good luck!

 

[Gizmotoy]

That #4 there is going to be the expensive one. Either it's a false reading and communication with the HV pack is failing, or the battery was actually damaged and shed its coolant. Either way, it's not a good situation.

IIRC, there's a wire loop up front first responders can snip to disable the HV pack. Presumably, best case is that someone made use of that.

You'll likely need to get the thing to Tesla, unfortunately, and they're not going to OK a DIY repair if the battery's involved. You'll likely be shuttled off to an authorized repair center, and an associated gigantic repair estimate.

 

[Yauheni]

My center radiator was damaged, so I assume that the coolant just drained away from the system, because there is no coolant in the coolant tank. Im waiting to get few parts that i need to close the loop on the coolant system to fill it up with the coolant. Also, my temperature sensor was damaged, so the car doesnt know whats the temperature is outside. Im not sure how important it is, but i assume it is important. The wire loop on top of the right suspension is good and not damaged.

 

[mmh]

If you haven't already, you may want to read through this thread:
http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/showthread.php/38198-Need-some-help-figuring-out-my-salvage-model-S

Please keep up updated. These threads about bringing back-to-life, wrecked, Model S's are very very informative.

Good Luck!

 

[Kalud]

I am 99% certain that you can't have the High Voltage battery contactor to close without coolant. Here's what I feel is happening in order normally:

1. Car locked, HV contactor open.
2. Unlock, door open, car check coolant level, its within limits.
3. HV Contactor closes
4. Coolant pumps starts (you can clearly hear them)
5. Check flow and coolant temperature profile. If anything unusual then open HV contactor

Before you get to charge that car you certainly need to have the coolant loop closed and filled, that's 100% certain. Then there could be some further action needed (presumably from Tesla Service).

 

[Yauheni]

Thank you so much for this thread. I have red it thru, it was very informative. So now I decided to post mine, just to see how its going to end up. Im just doing my process of searching some parts and advice. Hoping to get it running. for some reason i cant post any more pictures

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you so much for your input. I was thinking the same thing, that Coolant lever should be within the limits. Now I cant check it since I need center radiator and a few hoses. Hopefully I'll get them soon. I called Tesla few days ago and ordered coolant, and they sold it to me without any problems. I was surprised, after i have red so many stories that Tesla wont sell you basically nothing. Anyways. I got my coolant and now trying to find some other parts that I need.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW, does anybody knows what SIGNAL connector is on the DC-DC Converter??? My plug was destroyed and it is not connected now to the converter.

 

[Kalud]

Thank you so much for your input. I was thinking the same thing, that Coolant lever should be within the limits. Now I cant check it since I need center radiator and a few hoses. Hopefully I'll get them soon. I called Tesla few days ago and ordered coolant, and they sold it to me without any problems. I was surprised, after i have red so many stories that Tesla wont sell you basically nothing. Anyways. I got my coolant and now trying to find some other parts that I need.

You might get trouble getting the actual parts for repair, but not coolant... Tell us how it goes with your Tesla parts specialist.

BTW, does anybody knows what SIGNAL connector is on the DC-DC Converter??? My plug was destroyed and it is not connected now to the converter.

Probably CAN Bus related, voltage and current sensors. You most likely need that one active too, because my guess is that the car need these before closing the HV contactor too as a safety measure, but maybe not.

 

[kennybobby]

Yes the dc-dc does need the CAN bus working and coolant also. It also has a High Voltage interrupt loop Signal (switch contacts) to sense if the HV connector cover is screwed in properly. The HVIL runs to several places and any one can open the loop and prevent pack powerup. This may be the SIGNAL line, it is a switch underneath the high voltage cover.

 

[qwk]

Oh boy. You better hope the car isn't marked as salvage(slim chance). Tesla will not be very cooperative once they find out that you are repairing a salvage car. Sent you a PM.

 

[Yauheni]

Thank you so much for your replies. I will certainly make sure that I need to Connect Signal to the dc-dc inverter and put the coolant to level. Thank you!

 

[Yauheni]

I got a coolant, but i cant put it in, because i need to replace few hoses and center radiator. if anybody knows who may have these parts, please let me know. Thanks

 

[brianman]

Observations...
1. Your first post says "battery has about 170kW" which at first I didn't understand. Now I understand you meant "172 miles" based on the pictures in post #4. Note the missing "Rated" or "Ideal" in that UI (which implies older firmware).
2. You said it's on 5.8 which means it's probably been sitting in that state for a while -- as most cars have had newer firmware for a long time now. Consequently, it was probably *fortunately* at a pretty high state of charge when the collision occurred, and it's just been doing (vampire) drain since.

Good luck with the salvage. It might be a long road.

 

[Yauheni]

Yeah. Thats right, its around 170 miles. Trying to get some parts which is not easy and trying to figure out why it wouldnt start.

 

[Rawad H.]

Hey there, I recently had a front end accident with my car and it became undrivable. Per the service center when air bags deploy the car has a fuse that blows that makes the car not drivable as a safety precaution. As soon as that was replaced it became drivable. If the car is salvaged you might be out of luck, and tesla does not have used parts and only certified collision shops may purchase parts from tesla so I wish you the best of luck.

 

[Yauheni]

Yeah, i was aware of this PYRO FUSE which is right on top of the 12V battery. I Tried to connect both ends of this fuse with a wire just to try if its going to help, but nothing happened, same thing. I even put 2.2Ohm resistor to the connector that goes to this fuse, didnt help. I will see if I can order it from Tesla.
About the SIGNAL connector that goes to DC-DC Converted, not sure what its for, but the seats and mirrors and steering wheel adjustment dont work, so its probably for an interior moving components, but im not 100% sure yet. Will see when I will get this new connector and replace it.

Will keep you posted.

 

[Yauheni]

While the body of the car is getting repaired, Im trying to figure out some wires that were cut or damaged. Does anybody know that this connector is for??? It is right by the WHITE & BLACK connector that connects to the front bumper harness.