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Front Collision TESLA P85. Repair and Troubleshooting Help Needed.
- Thread starter Yauheni
- Start date
This blows me away . . . I'd never have thought that any part of the repair could be a DIY project. I'd still get it to Tim or Chris at the Scottsdale a Service Center to have it checked out before going anywhere. I'd also get hold of a Tesla to insure that they have you registered for the app, monitoring, and service updates.
My understanding is, that Tesla wants to do all repairs itself. Otherwise they would never certify ( at least now, pretty sure it will change later) and therefore i dont really have ability to update. The whole internal system on electric cars alot simpler than any gasoline engine car. For me it seems like since these card relatively new ( on the market, electric cars were before gasoline or diesel) many people afraid to do anything on it. For me it seems like very well knows technology and easy to work on. The main problem is the luck of the information released about it. Hopefully Tesla will change over time, or when new competitors will come to the market.
Kalud
Active Member
Wonderful!
What software version is the car right now ? Did you get software update notification since you have the car ? Granted it has been powered off (12V batt dead) most of the time... I wonder if its still in Tesla servers for automatic updates.
I would also replace the 12V battery as its been dead for extended periods. Its pretty important to have a healthy one as its needed to keep the contactor closed when driving, so if it fails you could get stranded away from home. I'd keep a battery booster pack in the car until its replaced.
My software version is 5.8. I didnt see any messages on software update, but my 3G Sim card is removed, so the car is not connected to internet. New Battery is definitely on my list. Since i have an old battery which as i know was on recall. This battery i dont keep connected all the time yet, i want to recharge it once again and leave it connected to see if it gets charged up from big 400V battery pack.
green1
Active Member
My worry is that this might translate to them not allowing the car to drive. I'm hopeful that once everything is together things will just work, but I'm not confident tesla will do the right thing here.
And yes, electric vehicles are easier and safer to work on than any ice, that's one of the selling points, but one that tesla is happy to brag about, while actively getting in the way of. I am however impressed you were able to buy parts, many others have not been so lucky!
Tesla just wants to cover their own butts if the salvaged vehicle that is running again faults in some way (like brakes failing to work or airbags not deploying). The press would have a field day with that. Hence the reason telsa won't sign off on it unless they give it a complete head to toe thorough inspection.
Kalud
Active Member
green1
Active Member
I don't care what they want, they don't own the car, he does. They are well within their rights to deny warranty coverage, they *might* be able to withhold software updates (though there is nothing in their advertising that ties updates to vehicle not crashing) but they can't morally (or likely legally) disable driving a vehicle that they no longer own.
Sure they can. Just like you don't OWN your copy of Windows (you just have a license to use it), I'm pretty sure that if push comes to shove, Tesla could say that they are denying you the license to use their software, meaning the car is disabled. Since everything is driven by software, and not enough people (besides us techies) care to fight this, we are going to be at the manufacturer's mercy (for the time being).
Check out this Wired.com article about software licenses, and this article about John Deere trying to pull a fast one on its customers. I'm only mentioning this so people are aware of this risk before considering buying a salvage vehicle.
Little updates on the repair process. Last Friday I got the plug and connectors that I needed for my signal plug. So on Saturday I put a new plug and it worked out great. Plugged it is and seemed like the car was good, car drove back and forward on my parking lot. The only other message that i got was that my 12V battery is low. SO, i put my battery on charge while was doing some other things. After about 4-5 hrs i connected it back, and car started. After about 30 seconds i heard some noise from the front, i went outside and I saw that all my coolant is gone. I heard that all my pumps working. I added about half a gallon more to the coolant reservoir to have it at MAX level. After I that I sat down in the car, and new message came on screen - CAR NEEDS SERVICE, UNABLE TO DRIVE.
I spend maybe another hour trying to disconnect the battery, connect it back on, just wait until the pumps stop spinning, coolant level dropped a little more yet, but nothing changed. So now i have 2 messages on the screen - Car Needs Service - Contact Tesla Service Center, & Car Needs Service - Unable to Drive.
Car if Off. Car doesn't Drive
I spend maybe another hour trying to disconnect the battery, connect it back on, just wait until the pumps stop spinning, coolant level dropped a little more yet, but nothing changed. So now i have 2 messages on the screen - Car Needs Service - Contact Tesla Service Center, & Car Needs Service - Unable to Drive.
Car if Off. Car doesn't Drive
Kalud
Active Member
You probably need to bleed the coolant system somehow, I guess you would have to run the coolant pumps at full speed while making sure that the coolant reservoir is always at least above the low level, adding coolant as needed. It might have detected a low coolant or pump abnormalities (air) in the loop.
I agree that most likely car is unable to drive because it has air in the system.
I noticed that when you just "wake up" the car, open the door and get in the car, the coolant pumps start to work for a few minutes. I have no other choice, so I want to try to repeat this procedure a few times and see if its going to bleed the air out of the system by itself.
Any other advice/suggestion???
I noticed that when you just "wake up" the car, open the door and get in the car, the coolant pumps start to work for a few minutes. I have no other choice, so I want to try to repeat this procedure a few times and see if its going to bleed the air out of the system by itself.
Any other advice/suggestion???
