Front cooling louvers

[airborne spoon]

Mine is throwing same message , what did Tesla fix ?

I don't let Tesla work on my car, I do my own work that way I know it was done correctly and it saves me a fortune.
In my case I bought all 3 louvers and installed them. It was about $500 for all 3 of them.
Always properly diagnose a problem before throwing parts at it. If you aren't skilled enough to do this you can pay Tesla for a 1/2 hours of shop te for a diagnosis and then once you know the problem you can buy the parts to fix it yourself.

 

[Victor Godoy]

My car was throwing an error “air conditioning reduced” , AC not working all the yoke and this is what they want to charge , anyone knows who can fix it without going through Tesla ?

 

[vanwho]

So, if louvers open and close smoothly on car power up check, but never open when fans high during supercharger (battery well over 40c) never anytime else, either, what's the fix? Asking Tesla to resync? Anything they do they add almost two hundred bucks diagnostic fee.

 

[ResHacker]

So, if louvers open and close smoothly on car power up check, but never open when fans high during supercharger (battery well over 40c) never anytime else, either, what's the fix? Asking Tesla to resync? Anything they do they add almost two hundred bucks diagnostic fee.

Yes, seems to me like a possible fix, but so far not tested it yet.. One possibility would be to ask Tesla or to purchase Tool box 3 access and try to DIY process it.

 

[Stivi83it]

You don't have to change the flaps if they haven't broken off. I repaired my flap on the right with a cane tie that I pushed through the hole because the pivot axis of the flap had too much play in its guide. The flap moves every time you start the vehicle. But if the shaft has too much play, the flap rotates to 110 degrees and hits the inside of the bumper. The flap can only be opened 90 degrees. The flap moves every time to the stop specified by the shaft. You don't need to learn a new flap.

I think the error message "no feedback" actually means "no right feedback" because the motor cannot open the flap 90 degrees but 110 degrees because it is a production error.

 

[maximizese]

You don't have to change the flaps if they haven't broken off. I repaired my flap on the right with a cane tie that I pushed through the hole because the pivot axis of the flap had too much play in its guide. The flap moves every time you start the vehicle. But if the shaft has too much play, the flap rotates to 110 degrees and hits the inside of the bumper. The flap can only be opened 90 degrees. The flap moves every time to the stop specified by the shaft. You don't need to learn a new flap.

I think the error message "no feedback" actually means "no right feedback" because the motor cannot open the flap 90 degrees but 110 degrees because it is a production error.

That makes sense to me. I'm getting a "no feedback" error on the right radiator shutter. It opens and closes every time the car starts and some point during charging. When it does open, I noticed a louder than usually "click or popping" sound, which I suspect is the flaps opening beyond the intended limit. I will pay more attention the next time I start or charge the car. I recall the flap positions (angle) being different on the left vs the right shutters which makes sense based on what you proposed.

 

[Stivi83it]

That makes sense to me. I'm getting a "no feedback" error on the right radiator shutter. It opens and closes every time the car starts and some point during charging. When it does open, I noticed a louder than usually "click or popping" sound, which I suspect is the flaps opening beyond the intended limit. I will pay more attention the next time I start or charge the car. I recall the flap positions (angle) being different on the left vs the right shutters which makes sense based on what you proposed.

 

[Stivi83it]

You can see how the shaft is pushed upwards in its passage when it is fully open, and the flap opens 110 degrees. this is too much.

 

[tkizzy]

Thanks for writing back! I think it was around 52-54° f during the session described above. But regardless of if the louvres are opening or not, this charge curve is suspect. I even drove the car hard for a while before charging To warm up the battery. Oddly I even managed to get higher peak charging in freezing winter temps with the louvres stuck OPEN, so I’m confused as to why in warmer temps, with the flaps closed, it couldn’t hit above 80 kW. for what it’s worth the session referenced did not occur on a road trip, but at a V2 (w/v3 units also) supercharger near home base, and also we have lifetime unlimited supercharging so I wonder if there’s some special logic surrounding that… long story short maybe there’s more going on than just my louvres, time to finally get around to checking out scan my Tesla Or other app.

Just an update months later I’m charging now, I’ve seen charge rates go up to 127 kW at very low states of charge but tapers off to around 100 by the time it hits 20% state of charge. But I am still not seeing the louvers open and close upon plugging in and it’s 75° or so right now.
(… the above was saved in my drafts from last time I was writing here.…)
I’m super charging right now and it’s 82°F. The flaps have not opened once. I got over 120 kW below 10% and by the time I hit 15% I was getting 100 kW. Down to 78 kW by 30% . I don’t understand why the louvers wouldn’t open. Had them replaced at the beginning of this year and I did observe them opening at least once or twice. Thinking it’s time to go have them diagnosed again…

 

[ResHacker]

Just an update months later I’m charging now, I’ve seen charge rates go up to 127 kW at very low states of charge but tapers off to around 100 by the time it hits 20% state of charge. But I am still not seeing the louvers open and close upon plugging in and it’s 75° or so right now.
(… the above was saved in my drafts from last time I was writing here.…)
I’m super charging right now and it’s 82°F. The flaps have not opened once. I got over 120 kW below 10% and by the time I hit 15% I was getting 100 kW. Down to 78 kW by 30% . I don’t understand why the louvers wouldn’t open. Had them replaced at the beginning of this year and I did observe them opening at least once or twice. Thinking it’s time to go have them diagnosed again...

Do you have the related faults in service mode? Did you also hear loud noise coming from the fans in front? There might be no reason for them to open if the battery is cold enough.

 

[hydro]

I don't let Tesla work on my car, I do my own work that way I know it was done correctly and it saves me a fortune.
In my case I bought all 3 louvers and installed them. It was about $500 for all 3 of them.
Always properly diagnose a problem before throwing parts at it. If you aren't skilled enough to do this you can pay Tesla for a 1/2 hours of shop te for a diagnosis and then once you know the problem you can buy the parts to fix it yourself.

Hi, thanks for the suggestions to DIY. I think like you. I was about to change the right louver and the fan is now starting to be noisy. So I might as well fix that at the same time. Now I looked at the parts manual for the fans to order it but I'm kind of confused about which item I need for a noisy fan. Maybe you could point me in the right direction ?

 

[airborne spoon]

Hi, thanks for the suggestions to DIY. I think like you. I was about to change the right louver and the fan is now starting to be noisy. So I might as well fix that at the same time. Now I looked at the parts manual for the fans to order it but I'm kind of confused about which item I need for a noisy fan. Maybe you could point me in the right direction ?

If the fan is making odd noise it may be going out, perhaps some wd40 but I dono. If it's just running at full speed it's pretty damn loud so it could just be played tricks on your ears. But just like any part you can usually just order it from the SC and install it yourself

 

[hydro]

ok thanks