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Front USB, is it always on?

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I recently updated my 2017 Model S 100D from MCU1+HW2 to MUC2+HW3.
Since the upgrade I noticed that the front USB seem to NOT be always on anymore.

I have a small WiFi hot-spot connected to one of the front USB and with MCU1 it was running 24/7 with very minimal battery consumption. It was very handy, because it is the only way for me to get WiFi coverage in my parking spot and download new firmware revisions and maps.
Now, with MCU2, after a few hours parked the hot-spot turns off because it's internal battery goes down to zero, which to me is a symptom that front USB is no more giving out power when parked.

Can anyone here confirm my suspicion? and in case: how can I have the front USB always on, giving out power to my WiFi hot-spot?
 
Power to the USB ports and the 12V Auxilary power socket in the front console is available whenever the vehicle is considered "awake" The vehicle may be awake for many reasons. For example, when using features such as Summon, or when features such as Smart reconditioning, Cabin Overheat Protection, Keep Climate On, Dog Mode, Sentry Mode, etc. are enabled. The vehicle is also awake whenever the 12V battery is being charged or is in use, during HV charging, when the vehicle is communicating with the mobile app, etc. Leaving an accessory plugged in does not deplete the 12V battery.
 
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Reactions: KyleDay
Thank you for your answer, but I'm getting different results.
E.G. I have a small USB converter plugged into the 12V socket, and it has a red LED showing when power is available.
As soon as I exit the car and close the door, the LED goes off, meaning that power is cut to the 12V auxiliary socket.

I suspect that the same is true also for the front USB, but I have no way to check it.
I will probably have to buy a small USB LED lamp, and use it to check the front USB sockets power output.

BTW: my car NEVER sleeps. It is set to keep always awake, and I can confirm it through TeslaFi screen.
 
I just found a small USB powered LED lamp, and used it to test my car.
Results are:
front USBs (2 sockets): always ON (they turn off only when car goes to sleep mode)
rear USBs (2 sockets) + 12V auxiliary: ON only when car is ON and ready to drive. When driver exit the car and close the door they turn off.

So, the problem is with my WiFi hot-spot and not with the car USB.
 
I have checked my WiFi hot-spot and it's working fine! It only depletes battery and turns off when connected to my Tesla front USB and the car is parked.
So I went a little further in the rabbit hole, downloaded the phone app to remotely check the hot-spot status and gave it a go.
Results are the following:
- when car is active (driving, or parked with door open, or parked with someone in the driving seat) hot-spot gets the right amount of power from front USB, and it's internal battery gets recharged.
- when car is NOT active (parked, no-one in the driving seat, door closed) there is still power to the front USB (LED USB lamp is on), but there is not enough power to charge the hot-spot internal battery. Consequently it depletes and goes to zero in a few hours and the wifi gets lost.

Now my working hypothesis is that the power from the front USB has 2 levels: full when car is active, and low (enough for a sentry thumb-drive or a LED lamp, not enough for my hot-spot) when car is not active.
I will try to find a way to test such hypothesis, I will probably need a power meter or a tester connected to the USB.
Will keep you all informed if I can get around to it.
 
Having some spare time on my hands, I set up a small testing rig
testrig.jpg

and went down to the car for another round of experiments.

Results are:
Code:
car ACTIVE                    left USB        right USB
with other port empty        5,12V - 2,26A    5,12V - 2,25A
with other port sentry/cam    5,10V - 2,24A    5,11V - 2,25A

Unfortunately I do not have clamps for my tester, so I couldn't test the USB ports when car was NOT Active.
Will try again next week, in the meantime I'll find a way to clamp the tester probes to the USB cable rig.
 
Having some spare time on my hands, I set up a small testing rig
testrig.jpg

and went down to the car for another round of experiments.

Results are:
Code:
car ACTIVE                    left USB        right USB
with other port empty        5,12V - 2,26A    5,12V - 2,25A
with other port sentry/cam    5,10V - 2,24A    5,11V - 2,25A

Unfortunately I do not have clamps for my tester, so I couldn't test the USB ports when car was NOT Active.
Will try again next week, in the meantime I'll find a way to clamp the tester probes to the USB cable rig.
Question: what was your quote for the "CCS Combo 2 retrofit" ? Did you already charged at a 250 kW Supercharger V3 and at which speed ? Thanks in advance for your reply.
 
CCS II Combo retrofit was 300CHF, performed by ranger.
Due to Covid restriction I'm not travelling around Europe as I used to do in the past, so I had no chance to try it on a V3 supercharger yet.
I just tested it on a V2 near my home, only to be sure that it worked. I got to the SC with 83% and only charged up to 85%, so obviously speed was rather slow.
 
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Reactions: PatrickCH4313
CCS II Combo retrofit was 300CHF, performed by ranger.
Due to Covid restriction I'm not travelling around Europe as I used to do in the past, so I had no chance to try it on a V3 supercharger yet.
I just tested it on a V2 near my home, only to be sure that it worked. I got to the SC with 83% and only charged up to 85%, so obviously speed was rather slow.
We already have 3 V3 superchargers (Affoltern, Bulle and Martigny) in Switzerland :)
 
I posted it over in the Model 3 forum

Well, I literally just found out that the Models 3 & Y don't have OBD-II ports... and here I am posting my OBD-II solution in the Model 3 room. I apologized over there for the tone deafness. Reposting the full bit here, to try to corral it in the right place.

================================================================================================

I've finally found a solution I'm happy with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H38IIY6/

A plug-in for the OBD-II outlet (power only) to a micro-USB connector, with enough cord to wind through into the center console. $10 bucks. There's a slightly more expensive model with a switch on it--I didn't want that one, assuming the switch would be a likely target for my feet to kick off inadvertently, and that the red switch would be very visible. I haven't tested either of those assumptions, since I only ordered the one--and, if I ever need to "turn it off," I'll simply unplug it. The cord exits the head of the plug at a 90° angle just about exactly where the plastic foot shield on the under-dash is, with enough wiggle room that it could run outside or inside the shield.

Of course, I wanted it inside & hidden. I had to remove a single screw (Torx head) at the rear/left of the shield in order to get the plug in the socket and maneuver my hands to run the wire inside (or you can plug it in directly without removing the screw, if you're happy with the wire exposed). From there, it was simple to route it behind the shield, over to the corner above the accelerator pedal & into the center console. I could've used an extra wrist & eyeballs on my fingertips :) for this next part: the hardest part of the whole job was getting it through the holes inside at the front of the center console so it would be inside the storage compartment without interfering with the sliding cover. I used a couple of zip-ties inside the compartment to make sure it stays put (and doesn't get caught up in the mechanism of the sliding door), and reinstalling the single Torx screw was as simple as taking it out had been.

Voila, I now have constant +5V power in my center console, without drilling or cutting. I may yet go that route--or, more likely, hire a professional car audio guy--an install actual USB power outlets... but, for now, I'm in business. The top 1/2" or so of the plug (upside down to fit in the socket) sticks out below the shield--but, it's basically invisible, since it's the same black color as the shield itself. Even if you were to go looking for it, all you'd see is a small "bump" in the shield where there used to be a hole. The entire wire is hidden, unless I go digging for the Pi in the center console.

The power plug is directly in the Pi's power-only USB; and I did the electrical-tape trick to make a data-only cable to plug the Pi's data port into the car. It's been up & running for two weeks now. During that time, I've done multiple local drives, a ~1,500-ish mile road trip, multiple super charging & level 1 / 2 charging, an OTA software update, a few touchscreen resets, used the in-car viewer, archived some "Saved" & "Sentry" files, sideloaded music & listened to same, etc.--in short, everything I could think of to use the Pi's features as well as anything I thought might interrupt power. Bottom line, the Pi ran fine, the TeslaUSB project ran fine, and the power never wavered. As far as I can tell in two weeks' observation, the 12V battery getting disconnected (or dying) is apparently the only way this power source would fail.

Code:
root@MimiPi:~# uptime
 13:18:36 up 14 days, 19:34,  1 user,  load average: 1.20, 1.36, 0.74

I've still got some small potatoes to deal with insofar as final placement of the wires, the Pi itself, etc. inside the center console. But, big picture: success! :D