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Frunk LED Light Strip for Model 3 or Y

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I would imagine not, in fact I haven’t had any problems at all with my LED strip as it is, but I haven’t installed my Hansshow power frunk kit yet.
So can you install the Hansshow strip with the Tesla Offer power frunk? It looks like Hansshow is plug and play now between the OEM connectors. Didn't know if the Hansshow draws less amps and less likely to cause the Frunk button to stop working.
 
That’s great!

I assume if I buy the latest v5 powered frunk and led strip direct from hansshow I wont have the issues discussed in this thread?

That is correct as I have the v5 auto frunk from them

I am asking if there is a code they can share so I can post here

Honestly the led strip I bought was around $25usd and then to get all the relay, and necessary bits (t taps / spades / inline fuse etc) would bring up total around $30-$35 usd so wouldn’t mind paying $50-$60 for a plug and play solution that is clean install.

At $70 usd though, I’d skip it and at least I know splicing into their auto frunk harness should work
 
No problem Pete and thanks for that. Nope, i'm neither an electrician but had been tinkering with auto, electrics, electronics, mechanics, etc, since the 80s.. and yet I'm still alive. :) Yes, I do agree on the point about installing a relay on a Tesla seems silly but at the same time, Tesla is software-locking the footwell lights for RWD versions so the playing field is open in my opinion. Will definitely get to test out the relay on the weekend and report back. cheers.
finally, after a week off due to kids and viruses, i'm finally free to do things on the Tesla. :p To report back, couple of interesting finds. Yes, old school relay works like a charm, to an extend. With my TO frunk in place, I added a small replay with pin 30 connecting to the +ve after the 25A in-fuse from the frunk; 86 connecting to the frunk button grey wire (the switched +ve); 87 connecting to LED +ve; and 85 connecting to ground (together with LED -ve). Though it works, it seems to burn out my COB LEDs (I've burnt through 6 already though I have about 20 spares lying around). I've tested out both the following types and both would burn out.



However, if I swap the LED end with the old type of SMD strip, like the following, but only about 20cm long:


No problem at all. Frunk button lights up, button functions as closing of the auto frunk, both the button and LED would light up until times out,


So I thought, hang on, did I need a relay in the first place (as I was observing the same symptom of the LED working for the first two operations before it shuts off). So I went and disconnected the relay, and merely connected the SMD LED strip directly to the frunk button GREY +ve wire and ORANGE -VE wire. Hey presto, works like a charm.

Now looking back, the COB LED bar I was using was running about 7W; the COB eagle eye LED was about 9W; while the SMD strip was rated at 4.8W/m, which is about 0.9W given it was slightly less then 20cm. That would explain why my setup didn't work while a lot of others on the forum said it was easy to connect up LED strip just tapping into the frunk button wires.

Glad I got to the bottom of it. Happy mod-ing!
 
That is correct as I have the v5 auto frunk from them

I am asking if there is a code they can share so I can post here

Honestly the led strip I bought was around $25usd and then to get all the relay, and necessary bits (t taps / spades / inline fuse etc) would bring up total around $30-$35 usd so wouldn’t mind paying $50-$60 for a plug and play solution that is clean install.

At $70 usd though, I’d skip it and at least I know splicing into their auto frunk harness should work

I also asked Hansshow to sell the cheaper non rgb lights with easy connect harness on Amazon with 15% off coupon

So $39usd and additional 15% off

They also included the discount for power frunk and trunk kits if anyone is interested

https://amz.fun/yQrCr
Coupon code if asked: 15techgooch
Expires June 8 2022

Tagging @101dals @Toblerone
 
I also asked Hansshow to sell the cheaper non rgb lights with easy connect harness on Amazon with 15% off coupon

So $39usd and additional 15% off

They also included the discount for power frunk and trunk kits if anyone is interested

https://amz.fun/yQrCr
Coupon code if asked: 15techgooch
Expires June 8 2022

Tagging @101dals @Toblerone
Thanks for the heads up @EVer

Now im wondering this or the EV offer power frunk & led strip?

I think the hansshow is more plug and play for both led strip and power frunk - whereas Ev offer give great support but *may* need a relay to install both.
I messaged ev offer offer on telegram and that’s what they recommended.

Anyone got views on this?
 
I also asked Hansshow to sell the cheaper non rgb lights with easy connect harness on Amazon with 15% off coupon

So $39usd and additional 15% off

They also included the discount for power frunk and trunk kits if anyone is interested

https://amz.fun/yQrCr
Coupon code if asked: 15techgooch
Expires June 8 2022

Tagging @101dals @Toblerone
Thanks for the code! I will probably roll the dice and order. I have the EV Offer frunk so we will see if I need the relay.
 
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You won't need a relay if you know how much power draw your LED would be. It is as simple as a wire tap with a low draw SMD LED strip, or if preferred, the full LED tube right around the entire frunk bin which a lot of people prefer around the world. From what I see both Hansshow and Tesla Offer auto frunk kit would work with just tapping the frunk wire button (now I can say with some certainty), but of course, I'm a very hands-on person so to me cutting original harness and re-soldering 2-3-4-6 prone plugs would be no issues. Please make sure you do know the basics of +ve and -ve and which wires to cut / connect first, and be careful with your M3 as it no longer has physical fuses. :)
 
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I think you're correct Ernest, it's all about the amount of current drawn, but what the critical figure is, I'm not sure. The spec for the Neon LED Strip I used is 9W/m and I think around the frunk is just short of 3m. Lithium battery voltage seems to be about 15V so by calculation (I haven't measured it, but could do!) current would be about 1.7A which would appear to be too much for the EV Offer ECU and causes the malfunctioning Frunk Button and hence the requirement to switch it using a relay. Using a less hungry LED would eliminate this but we don't yet know the critical figure here!
 
I think you're correct Ernest, it's all about the amount of current drawn, but what the critical figure is, I'm not sure. The spec for the Neon LED Strip I used is 9W/m and I think around the frunk is just short of 3m. Lithium battery voltage seems to be about 15V so by calculation (I haven't measured it, but could do!) current would be about 1.7A which would appear to be too much for the EV Offer ECU and causes the malfunctioning Frunk Button and hence the requirement to switch it using a relay. Using a less hungry LED would eliminate this but we don't yet know the critical figure here!
Yes, finding the critical load is crucial, but with these auto frunk ECUs changing all the time (because Tesla is changing all the time), it is a massive rabbit hole to be honest. With or without the auto frunk, at least having the understanding of how different appliance (eg. LEDs, or dash cam, etc) can have towards the entire circuitry would be beneficial, especially true with Tesla's setup as it is all computer-controlled voltage/amperage. Side note would be how accurate the "printed" claim of power draw of each appliance versus what multimeter reads (or what the car reads) - have seen far too many appliance states a particular draw but differs in real-world. Sad but true. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.
 
I’ve decided not to fit the power frunk, I just don’t use the frunk enough for it to be worthwhile for me.

If anyone wants to buy it cheaper than direct from Hansshow in China, and with much quicker delivery:

 
@PeteSanders , I didn't manage to get around to testing my circuit over the weekend but I'm in a similar boat - EVOffer auto frunk on MIC-M3 2022. I previously spliced the two wires (grey to +ve and orange to -ve) on the frunk button connector to some spare LEDs I'd lying around. Initially both the button light and LED would work as expected but shortly after, the LED stops working but the frunk button light and functionality of closing remains. I've disconnected both batteries and reconnected but LED stopped working. So am guessing either e-fuse tripped or there simply not enough power from the auto-frunk and additional LED on the same thin line. So with the relay you've added (assuming the old school 4-pin 40a relay), I'm guessing.. the 30 goes directly to battery (with inline fuse); 86 goes to the frunk button grey wire (+ve); 85 goes to ground (or the orange -ve wire); and 87 goes to the +ve of the LED l

@PeteSanders , I didn't manage to get around to testing my circuit over the weekend but I'm in a similar boat - EVOffer auto frunk on MIC-M3 2022. I previously spliced the two wires (grey to +ve and orange to -ve) on the frunk button connector to some spare LEDs I'd lying around. Initially both the button light and LED would work as expected but shortly after, the LED stops working but the frunk button light and functionality of closing remains. I've disconnected both batteries and reconnected but LED stopped working. So am guessing either e-fuse tripped or there simply not enough power from the auto-frunk and additional LED on the same thin line. So with the relay you've added (assuming the old school 4-pin 40a relay), I'm guessing.. the 30 goes directly to battery (with inline fuse); 86 goes to the frunk button grey wire (+ve); 85 goes to ground (or the orange -ve wire); and 87 goes to the +ve of the LED light?
This happened to me! Also have an ev offer auto frunk. I just bought the new hanshow after this one stopped working . But the hanshow also does not have the button to close work :(
 
Do you have an led strip installed also?
I see that hanshow do a kit with both, but not sure it resolves this issue without a relay?
I had one installed. It worked but the button didn't. But now the light stopped working. But the button does. I bought the hanshow thinking it would be plug and play but it turned on. Button didn't work.
Now though I think I tripped the fuse because neither led strip works or the light for the button. The button works though
Now what ?
 
I had one installed. It worked but the button didn't. But now the light stopped working. But the button does. I bought the hanshow thinking it would be plug and play but it turned on. Button didn't work.
Now though I think I tripped the fuse because neither led strip works or the light for the button. The button works though
Now what ?
If you’ve tripped an E fuse either wait for the car to sleep (make sure sentry mode is off), or follow this guide to reset the fuses:

 
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If you’ve tripped an E fuse either wait for the car to sleep (make sure sentry mode is off), or follow this guide to reset the fuses:

thanks!! on the Y with my 3rd row 7 seater, i can't seem to open up the 2nd row seats.. what am i doing wrong? instructions here are for the 3
 
I had one installed. It worked but the button didn't. But now the light stopped working. But the button does. I bought the hanshow thinking it would be plug and play but it turned on. Button didn't work.
Now though I think I tripped the fuse because neither led strip works or the light for the button. The button works though
Now what ?
I did the same exact thing as you. I have the EV offer auto frunk and installed the plug and play Hansshow frunk lights for model Y (ordered on the slow boat from China over a month ago). The button doesn't work, but the light on the button does. I do light the light, not sure if I will keep it as I use the button in the frunk to close