Frunk LED Light Strip for Model 3 or Y

[Ernest H]

This happened to me! Also have an ev offer auto frunk. I just bought the new hanshow after this one stopped working . But the hanshow also does not have the button to close work

so your EO auto frunk stopped working and then you installed the hansshow one? and thereafter, your original button doesn't close the frunk? Perhaps best you speak with Hansshow support and go from there.

 

[Ernest H]

I did the same exact thing as you. I have the EV offer auto frunk and installed the plug and play Hansshow frunk lights for model Y (ordered on the slow boat from China over a month ago). The button doesn't work, but the light on the button does. I do light the light, not sure if I will keep it as I use the button in the frunk to close

EO auto frunk plus the Hansshow frunk light. Can't say for certain they were tested together but I'd assume if you have the Hansshow auto frunk and the Hansshow frunk light it should work together. For my set up, EO auto frunk, and a low-draw SMD LED strip about 20cm long, directly connects to the frunk button wires (orange and grey), has been working well over a month now. Frunk button lights up, frunk button closes, and LED strip stays on for as long as the button light does (i've left a camera inside the frunk and lights out after 9ish minutes). Going back to a reply I did a month ago (on this thread), it is a matter of how much the extra LED is drawing (be it an SMD strip, light bar, or COB) and how the Tesla computer detects it being abnormal. Auto frunks typically draw power directly from the 12V terminal - but when you start tapping into existing wires to draw power, eg. the frunk button, the computer would check the draw from that point and may trip a fuse or stop one functionality or another.

 

[101dals]

EO auto frunk plus the Hansshow frunk light. Can't say for certain they were tested together but I'd assume if you have the Hansshow auto frunk and the Hansshow frunk light it should work together. For my set up, EO auto frunk, and a low-draw SMD LED strip about 20cm long, directly connects to the frunk button wires (orange and grey), has been working well over a month now. Frunk button lights up, frunk button closes, and LED strip stays on for as long as the button light does (i've left a camera inside the frunk and lights out after 9ish minutes). Going back to a reply I did a month ago (on this thread), it is a matter of how much the extra LED is drawing (be it an SMD strip, light bar, or COB) and how the Tesla computer detects it being abnormal. Auto frunks typically draw power directly from the 12V terminal - but when you start tapping into existing wires to draw power, eg. the frunk button, the computer would check the draw from that point and may trip a fuse or stop one functionality or another.

I think I came to the same conclusion that you did regarding the power draw. Was hoping that the Hansshow light strip was less draw, but I guess not. I might trim the LED strip and just run it across the bottom. The LED strips are not too expensive so maybe I can find the sweet spot with draw vs illumination. I'll let y'all know!

 

[101dals]

Just shooting from the hip here, but would one of the manual 12v LED dimmers lower the current significantly? The hansshow LED strip is super bright, and if I dialed down the brightness some, do you think that would be significant enough for the frunk switch to not stop working?

 

[Ernest H]

maybe to buy a cheap short LED strip (SMDs) and prove the concept instead of cutting the existing hansshow strip? Separately yes, if you have a LED dimmer ready that should theoretically lower the draw on the line but, need to find the critical load where it triggers the computer.

 

[asian_xl]

LED dimmer doesn't work...tried it on many cars. even at 25% doesn't work well.

 

[gadgetfreaky]

This happened to me! Also have an ev offer auto frunk. I just bought the new hanshow after this one stopped working . But the hanshow also does not have the button to close work

Ok I got it to work. I kept my original LED strip. I bought a relay 1 Pack 40/30 AMP 12 V DC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QV54V1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I then wired white and blue to the power and ground of the trunk light. Yellow to the 12V battery positive. Black to the positive of the LED light. LED negative to the 12V battery negative. Now both the switch button works and the LED light .

 

[101dals]

Ok I got it to work. I kept my original LED strip. I bought a relay 1 Pack 40/30 AMP 12 V DC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QV54V1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I then wired white and blue to the power and ground of the trunk light. Yellow to the 12V battery positive. Black to the positive of the LED light. LED negative to the 12V battery negative. Now both the switch button works and the LED light .

Thanks for the update! I am going to try this once we get back from vacation.

 

[101dals]

Ok I got it to work. I kept my original LED strip. I bought a relay 1 Pack 40/30 AMP 12 V DC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QV54V1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I then wired white and blue to the power and ground of the trunk light. Yellow to the 12V battery positive. Black to the positive of the LED light. LED negative to the 12V battery negative. Now both the switch button works and the LED light .

Looks like everyone else on the thread is using the 4 pin relay. Any reason why you chose the five pin?

 

[101dals]

EO auto frunk plus the Hansshow frunk light. Can't say for certain they were tested together but I'd assume if you have the Hansshow auto frunk and the Hansshow frunk light it should work together. For my set up, EO auto frunk, and a low-draw SMD LED strip about 20cm long, directly connects to the frunk button wires (orange and grey), has been working well over a month now. Frunk button lights up, frunk button closes, and LED strip stays on for as long as the button light does (i've left a camera inside the frunk and lights out after 9ish minutes). Going back to a reply I did a month ago (on this thread), it is a matter of how much the extra LED is drawing (be it an SMD strip, light bar, or COB) and how the Tesla computer detects it being abnormal. Auto frunks typically draw power directly from the 12V terminal - but when you start tapping into existing wires to draw power, eg. the frunk button, the computer would check the draw from that point and may trip a fuse or stop one functionality or another.

So, I am going to use your relay pin suggestions with the Hansshow LED that I purchased. I figure that I will splice in the relay into the Hansshow LED wire loom and won't have to cut the OEM wiring. Is your relay still working or did you take it out? You posted that you had burned out some LEDs.

 

[Ernest H]

LED dimmer doesn't work...tried it on many cars. even at 25% doesn't work well.

wow that's interesting to learn. Perhaps that also depends on whether the LED in use is PWM or CCR.

 

[Ernest H]

So, I am going to use your relay pin suggestions with the Hansshow LED that I purchased. I figure that I will splice in the relay into the Hansshow LED wire loom and won't have to cut the OEM wiring. Is your relay still working or did you take it out? You posted that you had burned out some LEDs.

With and without relay, I've had two types of LEDs burnt out after 5-10 on/offs (both were COB LED). I've been using those same ones in my previous ICE car connecting directly to ciggy 12v without issues for years. after swapping to an old SMD LED strip with and without relay works. So no, I've taken out the relay and both LED and the button functions normally, for the past 5 weeks now.

 

[gadgetfreaky]

Looks like everyone else on the thread is using the 4 pin relay. Any reason why you chose the five pin?

it's what I got on amazon, and what evoffers support told me to get. i'm sure the 4 pin would work since you only use 4 of the wires?

 

[PeteSanders]

In automotive terms, a '4 pin' relay is a simple on/off switch or make/break contact which is all that's required here, whereas a '5 pin' relay is a changeover contact relay. It might also be worth bearing in mind that the later cars using the Lithium battery on the '12V' side will have a slightly higher voltage which might contribute to the burning out of the LEDs which some are experiencing. The '12V' circuit on my own 2022 Model Y was measuring 15.35V when I measured it.

 

[Ernest H]

Funny that the same LED COB light bar I have been using which was burnt out on the frunk button wire (I've some spares lying around), has been working in my boot (trunk) using the the same wires of the original dim LED (left). The right LED wires I've connected an LED SMD strip which is the same as the frunk's. See pictures. 5 weeks in and all working well. I really should get my multimeter meter and see what's going through the wires... Since old ICE 12v normally have 13-14v but with these newer 15v batteries, maybe even more..?

 

[PeteSanders]

Nice bright, well lit Trunk lights there Ernest, and the light in the lower compartment is a great idea. I'm interested to know if yours is the later lithium '12V' (15V) battery.

 

[Ernest H]

Nice bright, well lit Trunk lights there Ernest, and the light in the lower compartment is a great idea. I'm interested to know if yours is the later lithium '12V' (15V) battery.

yes it is, March 2022 delivery MIC M3 RWD in Perth.

 

[Ernest H]

Funny that the same LED COB light bar I have been using which was burnt out on the frunk button wire (I've some spares lying around), has been working in my boot (trunk) using the the same wires of the original dim LED (left). The right LED wires I've connected an LED SMD strip which is the same as the frunk's. See pictures. 5 weeks in and all working well. I really should get my multimeter meter and see what's going through the wires... Since old ICE 12v normally have 13-14v but with these newer 15v batteries, maybe even more..?

should clarify - the LED COB light bar is in the boot; while the lower trunk compartment and the frunk are both using the same 20cm LED SMD strips. The boot / trunk is super bright yet it doesn't shine in my eyes as it is installed under the deck plate (wired with the original left LED). The lower trunk compartment is wired from the right LED harness (both of the original LEDs have been disconnected); wire runs down the right side underneath the trims, and two holes drilled then zip-tied to the side that's closest to your knee. Again, it doesn't shine in my eyes as long as I don't directly hover the area. The frunk - the strip is installed just underneath the removeable cover, chose this location due to the proximity of the wiring and that even if i take the cover off, the strip remains and is easily serviceable. I went against using the long LED strip a lot of people are choosing to install under the rubber seal - though it looks neat, it really doesn't help to see inside the area as it is so bright around it.

 

[Leeroy]

Just adding to this incase someone is searching for answers. Ive just fitted an LED Frunk light from Ali express. I also have a EVoffer power frunk. After wiring the LED strip, I suffered similar problems reported here where the pushbutton stopped powering the frunk, but the screen and app still worked normally. I use the button a lot so wanted this to work. I found this thread via some other good folk and was about to wire up a relay but EVoffer responded to my questions about compatibility and explained its the factory wiring harness -'ve that's the problem. Tapping that wire for the LED load, on top of the frunk light will cause problems. They suggested just running a seperate earth for the LED (I used the same earth point as the power frunk) and can report back that it now all works correctly, no relay is required.

SO if you're reading this, just tap the +'ve from the factory frunk light and run your own -'ve. All will work as expected.

 

[101dals]

Just adding to this incase someone is searching for answers. Ive just fitted an LED Frunk light from Ali express. I also have a EVoffer power frunk. After wiring the LED strip, I suffered similar problems reported here where the pushbutton stopped powering the frunk, but the screen and app still worked normally. I use the button a lot so wanted this to work. I found this thread via some other good folk and was about to wire up a relay but EVoffer responded to my questions about compatibility and explained its the factory wiring harness -'ve that's the problem. Tapping that wire for the LED load, on top of the frunk light will cause problems. They suggested just running a seperate earth for the LED (I used the same earth point as the power frunk) and can report back that it now all works correctly, no relay is required.

SO if you're reading this, just tap the +'ve from the factory frunk light and run your own -'ve. All will work as expected.

So did you tap in to the gray wire from the Tesla OEM harness to the frunk button or on the EV offer harness that is connected in between? Or does it really not matter? Thanks for figuring this out!