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Frunk Security Issue - can be opened without a key - Feature not a bug

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Sorry, but that's simply not correct.
The fact that the high voltage wire is insulated from the ground by the tires is precisely why it would preferentially use your barefooted body to arc to earth.

You're pushing against two electrical engineers here. There is zero reason any of the electricity in a Tesla (or any other car) wants to make its way to earth. The idea of "ground" in an electrical circuit is a human construct to make thinking about circuits easier, it does not mean that all electricity in the universe is somehow trying to make its way to the literal Earth.

Tell me why the Tesla maintenance manuals want you to wear 500V rated rubber gloves but make no mention of insulating yourself from the ground?

Trying to use alternative facts to scare people that a Tesla battery is constantly trying to arc to ground is not helping people adopt electric vehicles.
 
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You're pushing against two electrical engineers here. There is zero reason any of the electricity in a Tesla (or any other car) wants to make its way to earth. The idea of "ground" in an electrical circuit is a human construct to make thinking about circuits easier, it does not mean that all electricity in the universe is somehow trying to make its way to the literal Earth.

Tell me why the Tesla maintenance manuals want you to wear 500V rated rubber gloves but make no mention of insulating yourself from the ground?

Trying to use alternative facts to scare people that a Tesla battery is constantly trying to arc to ground is not helping people adopt electric vehicles.
You cannot be an electrical engineer if you don't know that a high voltage cable can arc to the ground.
Please, for my sake, kick off those loafers, grab yourself a nice long metal ladder, and touch your nearest high voltage transmission line with it.
 
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You cannot be an electrical engineer if you don't know that a high voltage cable can arc to the ground.
Please, for my sake, kick off those loafers, grab yourself a nice long metal ladder, and touch your nearest high voltage transmission line with it.
Again, like @gearchruncher already stated, you can choose to learn something here, or continue to argue for arguments sake. You don't have a clear understanding of electrical engineering; we do. We are trying to help educate the community, which includes you. We could choose to just sit here and snarl, but instead we choose to contribute to help expand the communities knowledge.

First and foremost, as has been stated multiple times, you are not cutting the high voltage line when you sever the orange loop.
Secondly, the reason you will complete a circuit through your body from the above ground transmission lines to Earth, is because the neutral line of that circuit is physically connected to Earth ground at the generation facility. I won't go into the reasoning behind this, but I do encourage you to google how power generation / distribution circuits work, with respect to Earth ground, differential voltage, floating ground, etc.
 
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may be I Am being over cautious in even thinking about this but has anyone hardwired two wires to the 12V Battery and tucked them in an accessible place, in case you ever need to jump the car.
part of me wants to do this, attach 2 wires to the 12V and attach a standard SAE connector on the other end, this would serve 2 uses, for me to put this 12V on a trickle charger and in case the 12V dies, splice the SAE away and jump the car without having to worry about opening the hood, taking the plastic panels away and then accessing the 12V in tight spot in the middle of the car.
Anyone ?
 
may be I Am being over cautious in even thinking about this but has anyone hardwired two wires to the 12V Battery and tucked them in an accessible place, in case you ever need to jump the car.
part of me wants to do this, attach 2 wires to the 12V and attach a standard SAE connector on the other end, this would serve 2 uses, for me to put this 12V on a trickle charger and in case the 12V dies, splice the SAE away and jump the car without having to worry about opening the hood, taking the plastic panels away and then accessing the 12V in tight spot in the middle of the car.
Anyone ?
Yes! My 2014 had a battery terminal mounted on the steel cross beam behind the nose cone. My 2016 did not have the battery terminal behind the nose cone but the threaded holes for it were still in the cross beam. Tesla would not sell me the needed battery cable. I installed a power connector at that point. The positive pin was connected to the 12 volt battery through a 20 amp fuse using 12 gauge wire inside a wire loom. The negative pin was connected to the bolt that was sticking up out of the cross beam. This was the original negative connection for the 2014 car. All that is required to access this connector is to pop the nose cone off.
 
Yes! My 2014 had a battery terminal mounted on the steel cross beam behind the nose cone. My 2016 did not have the battery terminal behind the nose cone but the threaded holes for it were still in the cross beam. Tesla would not sell me the needed battery cable. I installed a power connector at that point. The positive pin was connected to the 12 volt battery through a 20 amp fuse using 12 gauge wire inside a wire loom. The negative pin was connected to the bolt that was sticking up out of the cross beam. This was the original negative connection for the 2014 car. All that is required to access this connector is to pop the nose cone off.
 
Yes! My 2014 had a battery terminal mounted on the steel cross beam behind the nose cone. My 2016 did not have the battery terminal behind the nose cone but the threaded holes for it were still in the cross beam. Tesla would not sell me the needed battery cable. I installed a power connector at that point. The positive pin was connected to the 12 volt battery through a 20 amp fuse using 12 gauge wire inside a wire loom. The negative pin was connected to the bolt that was sticking up out of the cross beam. This was the original negative connection for the 2014 car. All that is required to access this connector is to pop the nose cone off.
Can you kindly share some pictures please ? on how you wired this
 
Can you kindly share some pictures please ? on how you wired this
That would require taking the frunk liner and the frunk tub out of the car again. Here is a picture I took at the time.

20160331_140925.jpg

On the right side look for the two white plastic tie wraps. The shiny black plastic on the left is the loom I added. It goes from the cross beam to an always hot point of the fuse panel through a blade type fuse holder. The fuse is 20 amps. The main reason for adding the connection is my electric jack maxes out at 18 amps which is too much for the power port in the car. The connector that I used is called an Anderson Powerpole.
 
Don't know if this was already addressed. Please see below

Do It Yourself - Model 3


If the car has power you can't open the frunk using the two wires in the bumper. It will only open if the 12v power supply isn't present.
This is not true. The site says: In the unlikely event that Model 3 has no 12V power, ..., you can open the frunk using the method mentioned in the thread. It does not you can't open the frunk this way when the V12 does have power. In fact, you can. People tried, and it does open. E.g.,
 
This is not true. The site says: In the unlikely event that Model 3 has no 12V power, ..., you can open the frunk using the method mentioned in the thread. It does not you can't open the frunk this way when the V12 does have power. In fact, you can. People tried, and it does open. E.g.,
I am not clear on this (because it has been hard to find a definitive answer via web searches) but I read somewhere that Tesla corrected this security flaw by specifically updating the frunk manual open method to only work now if the 12V battery has no charge left. Also, the video you linked is a confusing reply since it doesn't reference the manual frunk opening method at all and seems to be a completely unrelated topic.
 
I am not clear on this (because it has been hard to find a definitive answer via web searches) but I read somewhere that Tesla corrected this security flaw by specifically updating the frunk manual open method to only work now if the 12V battery has no charge left.
First place to start is always the actual Tesla Model 3 Manual:

Which specifically says:
Note
The following steps do not open the front trunk if Model 3 is locked and has low voltage power.
It also has a video of how to do the whole process.
 
First place to start is always the actual Tesla Model 3 Manual:

Which specifically says:

It also has a video of how to do the whole process.
Okay, but @jeffoag did already reference the manual section you cited above and claimed otherwise. I have yet to find a definitive test of, "The following steps do not open the front trunk if Model 3 is locked and has low voltage power" and it wouldn't be the first time Tesla has fudged their manual and guides via a design oversight.