Garage Door Suggestions

[Glenn T]

Cleared out the garage in anticipation for the new Y. I previously had a 3 that got eaten up by this Garage Door!

Looking to replace this garage door opener with something more Tesla friendly.

I live in a part of California that hits triple digits during the summer. Any suggestions or resources would be appreciated.

Glenn

 

[Dennisis]

Cleared out the garage in anticipation for the new Y. I previously had a 3 that got eaten up by this Garage Door!

Looking to replace this garage door opener with something more Tesla friendly.

I live in a part of California that hits triple digits during the summer. Any suggestions or resources would be appreciated.

Glenn

First fill that crack and paint that floor! Give you something to do while you wait...

 

[Grandpa Gebis]

*edit* I’m dumb and think I misunderstood you.

 

[labmixz]

I went with a Chamberlain 3/4hp belt drive w/camera, model #B4545. Works flawlessly with the homelink module on the Tesla. I actually replaced my garage door opener months before I bought my Tesla, but I haven't had any issues with it. I enjoy how quiet the garage door opening/closing is now, lol.

 

[Dennisis]

I have a Chamberlain 3/4 too, no camera. Don’t put an LED bulb in though, interferes with the door signal .

 

[garrett5688]

Jackshaft.

 

[vtplm]

Liftmaster 8500w.

 

[Midnightsun]

Another vote for an 8500. Get rid of all that overhead mess. The opening of the door starts slow then ramps up, same on closing. Quietest unit out there not to mention ease of installation especially on a new garage. Once you try one there is no going back.

 

[mrwug]

One nice thing about current Chamberlain openers is that it’s relatively easy to get them working with Siri, Alexa, etc. so if you don’t have HomeLink, you can tell your phone to open/close the door.

 

[mrau]

Liftmaster and Chamberlain are the same company. The Chamberlain is for retail customers and Liftmaster is used more by dealers/installers. Amazon has a nice price on the Chamberlain jackshaft style opener. Easier to install, battery backup and dead bolt lock for less than $400.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WRHPDC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Glenn T]

*edit* I’m dumb and think I misunderstood you.

Thanks for replying. Apologies for the misunderstanding.

I was just trying to be funny about my garage eating my Tesla.

What happened is the garage door sensors didn’t recognize my Tesla and actually closed on top of my Tesla Model 3.

This garage door is over a decade old and before bringing the Y home, I want to update it.

Any suggestions for type of Garage door and opener would be appreciated.

Glenn

 

[Glenn T]

I went with a Chamberlain 3/4hp belt drive w/camera, model #B4545. Works flawlessly with the homelink module on the Tesla. I actually replaced my garage door opener months before I bought my Tesla, but I haven't had any issues with it. I enjoy how quiet the garage door opening/closing is now, lol.

Chamberlain, yea, somebody at Lowe’s mentioned them.

Thank you for the specific model and the added bonus it links with your Tesla.

Question: I noticed there was a 1 1/4 hp. Did you feel that much power was not needed or that 3/4 was sufficient?

 

[Midnightsun]

I use a 3/4hp on a 18' insulated steel door which works fine. Trick is the spring should be adjusted so there is almost no weight to the door. This video is rather long however in the end (jump to the 5:30 mark) it shows how it should react when properly balanced.

 

[Fourdoor]

Thanks for replying. Apologies for the misunderstanding.

I was just trying to be funny about my garage eating my Tesla.

What happened is the garage door sensors didn’t recognize my Tesla and actually closed on top of my Tesla Model 3.

This garage door is over a decade old and before bringing the Y home, I want to update it.

Any suggestions for type of Garage door and opener would be appreciated.

Glenn

Garage door light beam sensors will not prevent a door from closing on a car unless the front or back wheels are interrupting the light beam... and the force sensor may allow damage before reversing direction. I think this is true for all garage door openers though, not sure why you are looking for a replacement.

Keith

 

[jcanoe]

Garage door springs have a finite life, wear out after a certain number of open and close cycles. If the garage door spring(s) is more than 10 or 12 years old it is time for a new spring. (This is not a job for Harry homeowner. Garage door springs, including overhead type springs as in your photo, hold a great deal of energy and you can injure yourself if you don't know what you are doing.

As noted a properly balanced garage door (even a double wide door) with properly adjusted spring mechanism in good condition should be able to be raised and lowered with almost no effort. A 1/2 HP door opener is all you need. A 3/4 HP door opener would operate a bit faster, that is all.

The latest generation of garage door opener mechanisms have very sensitive motors that will stop and reverse if the opener encounters even a few pounds of resistance. This is for safety but it can also help prevent damage to your vehicle (ask me how I know.)

Things you can do yourself:

brush away cobwebs from the light sensor sending and receiving units, make sure the light beam is properly aimed so the light beam hits the receiving sensor.

Lubricate the rollers and hinges with silicone spray every 6 months

Periodically clean the overhead track and re-grease the skid with some white grease where the skid contacts the opener track.

Inspect the bottom gasket of the garage door and replace if old or torn. In most cases a new gasket can be inserted into the track (The old gasket may have been secured with a single screw driven through the gasket and into the bottom edge of the garage door to keep the gasket from sliding in the track.)

Things best left to a professional garage door installer:

Install the garage door, adjust the overhead spring, replace the overhead spring, install the garage door opener unit.

From start to finish an installer removed my 20 year old Sears chain drive garage opener, installed a new overhead spring and a new Liftmaster belt driven 1/2 HP opener in just 2.5 hours. It was well worth paying for their expertise.

 

[avs007]

The Chamberlain one I got has a battery backup, (uses an SLA like a UPS). There were several times where a power outtage would make it a pain in the ass to open the door... But with the battery backup, it has a low-current mode that it will switch to, so it can open the door off the battery. (Will open at 1/2 speed basically, when running of battery). Not sure how useful that is for you, but for us it is quite helpful during the windstorms we often get in winter.

 

[labmixz]

Chamberlain, yea, somebody at Lowe’s mentioned them.

Thank you for the specific model and the added bonus it links with your Tesla.

Question: I noticed there was a 1 1/4 hp. Did you feel that much power was not needed or that 3/4 was sufficient?

3/4hp is far enough power for any 2 normal car garage, even for insulated doors like the one your have. 1 1/4hp is usually over kill, typically you would see these on 10ft+(tall) 2 car garage doors, while your typical residential garage door is only about 7ft tall.

Also, to reply to someone stating that an LED bulb interferes with the signal, that is absolutely incorrect.

Edit: Also, just noticed someone's post about adjusting springs. Just because you have a new garage door opener, does not mean, you need to adjust your springs. This is rarely needed and is more for if the tension one either side is too much or too little (i.e. garage door not properly closing at the bottom). I've installed many garage door openers without the need of adjusting springs.

To add the Chamberlin model I mentioned and most newer openers have memory points you set during the installation. So, you'll "manually" (through buttons on the opener) move the door to the highest point opened, set it, then move it to the point closed, set it, then you're done, very simple installation and operation.

 

[Dennisis]

3/4hp is far enough power for any 2 normal car garage, even for insulated doors like the one your have. 1 1/4hp is usually over kill, typically you would see these on 10ft+(tall) 2 car garage doors, while your typical residential garage door is only about 7ft tall.

Also, to reply to someone stating that an LED bulb interferes with the signal, that is absolutely incorrect.

Edit: Also, just noticed someone's post about adjusting springs. Just because you have a new garage door opener, does not mean, you need to adjust your springs. This is rarely needed and is more for if the tension one either side is too much or too little (i.e. garage door not properly closing at the bottom). I've installed many garage door openers without the need of adjusting springs.

To add the Chamberlin model I mentioned and most newer openers have memory points you set during the installation. So, you'll "manually" (through buttons on the opener) move the door to the highest point opened, set it, then move it to the point closed, set it, then you're done, very simple installation and operation.

Hmmm, re the LED comment the ones I tried definitely interfered with the signal - had to nose right up to the door to get it to open. If I leave my LED lights on in the garage same problem, have to use the keypad to open. Maybe they make special LED ones or something, have to check.ok just checked they advertise ones that minimize interference.

 

[jcanoe]

I use a pair of 100W Daylight Philips LED bulbs and have not had any problems with interference with the garage door remote control. I have no experience with other brands of LED bulbs in my garage.

 

[labmixz]

Hmmm, re the LED comment the ones I tried definitely interfered with the signal - had to nose right up to the door to get it to open. If I leave my LED lights on in the garage same problem, have to use the keypad to open. Maybe they make special LED ones or something, have to check.ok just checked they advertise ones that minimize interference.

Only way I can think of it interfering with the signal is by fairly cheap bulbs with parts that leak interference. There isn't much to an LED bulb, short of some resistors & capacitors, small chip for the stepdown conversion, a small chip for the led driver and well the LED(s). Anything that is leaking interference, probably isn't FCC compliant and it they state they are, they definitely aren't if they have that mean RF leakage going on.

I use a pair of 100W Daylight Philips LED bulbs and have not had any problems with interference with the garage door remote control. I have no experience with other brands of LED bulbs in my garage.

I primarily use Philips, I would recommend Sylvania bulbs, but they've gotten worse of the years, usually go out within a year.