Get J1772 adapter to pop charge port door

[lolachampcar]

https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/J1772Basics

One of the lines to the car communicates the button press which initiates termination of charge and subsequent release of the charging cord.

 

[raetser]

The button on the factory cable changes the resistance between the ground and the PP signal pin, which signals the car it should stop charging and unlock the connector...
We don't have the J1772 connectors here, but Menekes type 2. But I guess the J1772 also has a locking system that locks as soon as you plug it in to your car?
That lock is released by pressing the tesla charge cable button. It cannot be done remote...

 

[Gizmotoy]

How cool! Just got a firmware update on Friday (2.0.81) and can pop the charge port door with a 2-3 second hold on the trunk button on the FOB.

So they removed a similar long-press that opened the windows because it was too easy to accidentally trigger (which I miss quite a bit), and then created a new one with the exact same behavior? Did they learn nothing?

 

[paco3791]

So they removed a similar long-press that opened the windows because it was too easy to accidentally trigger (which I miss quite a bit), and then created a new one with the exact same behavior? Did they learn nothing?

If you're not in park this long press has no effect, if you're already plugged in this long press has no effect, so the window (see what I did there) for unintended consequences of this long press is maybe smaller than it was for the window roll down.

 

[Gizmotoy]

If you're not in park this long press has no effect, if you're already plugged in this long press has no effect, so the window for unintended consequences of this long press is maybe smaller than it was for the window roll down.

Same was true for the windows, at least with respect to park. They should probably have made both Click, Click-Hold like other automakers to eliminate the accidental activation. It doesn't make much sense to disable one because it can be accidentally triggered and then go on to make the exact same mistake a few months later.

 

[arijaycomet]

Bill your payment is in the mail. Thanks for putting up with all my emails. Especially thankful for your help w/the c-clip suspension knowledge. I've got an appointment end of the month for the local performance shop to do that work. You're a huge asset to these forums, so again, thank you!
-Ari in Ohio

 

[davewill]

Yes, the button on the J1772 handle signals to the car that it should stop drawing current. Since for AC charging, the Tesla is J1772 (just a different connector) it works for the Tesla, too. Once the button is pushed, some cars then tell the EVSE to open its contactors immediately (my RAV4), others (LEAF) leave them closed and they open when the pilot signal disconnects from the car. Either way, the handle is cold by the time you could conceivable come into contact with anything, and there's no current so no arcing during the unplug.

No problem unplugging the J1772 using it's button. If the car were to let you unplug the adapter, you might THEN end up with arcing.

 

[lolachampcar]

Ari,
Any time. I've learned a lot from members on this forum and enjoy the discussions.

 

[lolachampcar]

Thank you to-
hcsharp
Scotty
arijaycomet
garygid

It is so nice to work with good people!!

 

[smac]

Arijaycomet,

The key fob will not release your connector from the car. Allthough in Europe we use another connector, the functioning is the same.
On the Tesla UMC, the button sends out an RF signal, and also sends a signal through the signal wires (not RF) to stop charging. The signal to unlock is not sent by RF, and that is for a god reason...

The code sent out by RF is the same for al cars (otherwise the superchargers would not be able to open every car), but sending the RF signal does not affect charging. Suppose it would, then every car capturing the RF signal would stop charging (provided the car key would be nearby)
That would not really be what we want to happen

Cheers!

Double pressing the roof of the fob when the car is unlocked stops the charge and releases the charge retaining pin. Holding the trunk of the fob pops the chargeport. So now no need to get in the car to either stop or start a charge.

(It would be more intuitive if it was consistent either way, i.e. a long press on the trunk area of the fob did both, but it's better than it was where you forget one or the other and had to get back in the car!)

This has worked since one of the sub release streams of v6.0, and continues to work on the latest 6.1. (I'm in the UK so it's the Type-2 (Mennekes) cable, which is slightly different)

 

[lolachampcar]

and thank you to
Imafrog

 

[lolachampcar]

cd1034
I received the Fob back. Thank you.
For future reference, if the fob does not work on arrival, please insure you have removed the small piece of white paper that isolates the battery. The USPS requires that I isolate any batteries such that the fob can not transmit in transit.

 

[tezco]

Has anyone had to replace the battery in their Lola FOB? Mine doesn't seem to be unlocking the charge port pin anymore so I'm back to crawling into the car to release my J1772 adapter. A double click on my OEM FOB doesn't lower the locking pin either.

 

[NJ Plugin]

Has anyone had to replace the battery in their Lola FOB? Mine doesn't seem to be unlocking the charge port pin anymore so I'm back to crawling into the car to release my J1772 adapter. A double click on my OEM FOB doesn't lower the locking pin either.

I did have to replace my battery about 6 weeks ago. I don't remember when I got my fob exactly, but I am guessing the battery lasted 9-12 months.

 

[lolachampcar]

I dialed down the transmitter power as much as I could but the board is still a battery hog.

 

[tezco]

Thanks. I'll try a battery swap since I find your fob so much preferable to climbing into the car to unlock the port.

 

[lolachampcar]

The project was reasonably successful. I sent out well over 200 and only one came back as non-functional (shipping paper still under battery ). Some day I'll have to go back and check that I received payment from everyone......

 

[lolachampcar]

many thanks to Cottonwood

You might mention that it is the same battery as the Tesla FOB. Here is a cheap source: Amazon.com: Sony CR2025 3 Volt Lithium Manganese Dioxide Batteries, Genuine Sony Blister Packaging (20 Pieces): Health Personal Care; About $0.41 each.

 

[tezco]

The project was reasonably successful. I sent out well over 200 and only one came back as non-functional (shipping paper still under battery ). Some day I'll have to go back and check that I received payment from everyone......

Don't shut down the presses just yet. I share my J1772 with my Leaf, so I leave the J1772 adapter in the S until I'm ready to drive. Except for the winter (when I'm preheating), the J1772 power cord invariably ends up being attached to the Leaf when I'm ready to take out the S. This means that I can't use the OEM fob to release the adapter (since this requires the J1772 to be attached to the car). Lola fob comes to the rescue.

 

[tezco]

many thanks to Cottonwood

You might mention that it is the same battery as the Tesla FOB. Here is a cheap source: Amazon.com: Sony CR2025 3 Volt Lithium Manganese Dioxide Batteries, Genuine Sony Blister Packaging (20 Pieces): Health Personal Care; About $0.41 each.

Thanks. Actually, miy Lola fob came with a 2032, which is said to last a bit longer since it's slightly thicker. All I had around the house was a 2025 which also fit in the battery holder without problem. The fob is back it's old self. For some reason the 2032's are currently slightly cheaper. http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Lithium-CR2032-Batteries-Blisters/dp/B004AT21R2/ref=pd_bxgy_hpc_text_y