Getting a used Tesla, deciding between years VS budget

[TSTitans]

Hi everyone,
I've been looking into Tesla for a couple months now , finally settled on getting a used Model S and adding the Jump Seats to it (if it doesn't already have it)

I'm stuck between 2 options and I've had a hard time tracking the various options and upgrades that happened during this time frame, the quality of the build and need for an extended warranty, etc.

Basically, I'm looking at the following 2 options:

2014-2015 P85D - no extended warranty available from Tesla, but can find really low miles, like 30-40k, for around $55k

2017-2018 75D - might qualify for their extended service contract, lose out on some battery and performance, and pay a premium for the lower miles options, so in my budget I'd probably have to get something with 90k+ miles.

I don't have a good sense of what these additional miles do to the car (normal wear and tear as well as battery degradation) VS the later production quality and features.

What would you choose and why?

 

[cellphonechris]

Avoid the older models unless you have a spare $20K laying around for a worst case scenario. 2014's have warranties expiring on HV battery this year.

 

[ucmndd]

Simple, I would immediately rule out the 2014 on account of the 8 year battery and drive unit warranty expiring this year, and would be extremely skeptical of buying a 2015 for the same reason. Also, most 85kwh batteries are severely hobbled at this point with very slow supercharging.

“Low miles” is not necessarily the selling point on these cars that you think it might be. Higher mileage 2014-2015 cars have likely had all the weak parts sorted at this point, possibly even several drive unit/battery replacements, while the low mile “pristine” example is a ticking time bomb that’s now out of warranty.

The only option I’d seriously consider is the 2017+. The 75D is plenty fast if it’s been “uncorked” and actual battery capacity/range will be very close to the older 85s.

 

[ucmndd]

2017-2018 75D - might qualify for their extended service contract

Also - you have to buy the ESA within 30 days / 1000 miles of the expiration of the original factory warranty - so you’d need to find a March 2018 or later car with less than 50k miles for that to be a consideration at all.

 

[cellphonechris]

If AP/tech is important, it's another reason to avoid the nosecone models. For reference, I bought a 2017 100D with EAP and HW3 last year for ~$58K. Just picked it up yesterday from the SC after upgrading to MCU2. Suspension aside, it's about as close as you can get to the current-gen LR model at a fraction of the price. It even came with PPF and chrome delete. I was coming out of a 2015 70D that already had a HV battery replacement and just started to leak from both display panels.

 

[father_of_6]

A brand new Model 3 LR. Because it's new and under warranty. And because my opinion is that the 3 is more fun to drive than the S.

 

[cellphonechris]

A brand new Model 3 LR. Because it's new and under warranty. And because my opinion is that the 3 is more fun to drive than the S.

"Fun to drive" is subjective, but I agree that if a 3 suits his/her needs, it should be an option. I need the hatch and space the MS affords.

 

[ucmndd]

A brand new Model 3 LR. Because it's new and under warranty. And because my opinion is that the 3 is more fun to drive than the S.

Dude is talking about adding the toddler jump seats to an S… I’m thinking a 3 isn’t gonna cut the mustard for how this person thinks they’re gonna use the car (neither are the jump seats, but that’s another conversation).

 

[cellphonechris]

Dude is talking about adding the toddler jump seats to an S… I’m thinking a 3 isn’t gonna cut the mustard for how this person thinks they’re gonna use the car (neither are the jump seats, but that’s another conversation).

Good catch lol

 

[father_of_6]

What's a jump seat? How can one jump while sitting?

I'd still go for the 3

 

[TSTitans]

Lol, I love these responses.

Yes, using the jump seat for the occasional drive with the full family. So, no Model 3. I considers the X/Y with 3rd rows but they're a bit beyond our budget and we won't regularly carry all 6 in this car anyway.

Thanks for the info though. Sounds like it's pretty agreed to go with the later year 75Ds.

I need to research the HV battery replacement. I didn't realize people go through several replacements... Do they really go bad that often?!

 

[TSTitans]

Simple, I would immediately rule out the 2014 on account of the 8 year battery and drive unit warranty expiring this year, and would be extremely skeptical of buying a 2015 for the same reason. Also, most 85kwh batteries are severely hobbled at this point with very slow supercharging.

“Low miles” is not necessarily the selling point on these cars that you think it might be. Higher mileage 2014-2015 cars have likely had all the weak parts sorted at this point, possibly even several drive unit/battery replacements, while the low mile “pristine” example is a ticking time bomb that’s now out of warranty.

The only option I’d seriously consider is the 2017+. The 75D is plenty fast if it’s been “uncorked” and actual battery capacity/range will be very close to the older 85s.

Really interesting point... I'm not used to these cars, crazy to think low miles can actually be a bad thing in some cases.

 

[ucmndd]

I need to research the HV battery replacement. I didn't realize people go through several replacements... Do they really go bad that often?!

Not that often, no. But more so with the earlier cars, and numbers are definitely going up as the cars age. It’s a distinct possibility, and is a ~$12-20k problem if it happens out of warranty. So you should be prepared for that and confident you can afford it.

 

[brico84]

I would consider an extended warranty with XCare regardless of which option you go with.

Also, if FSD, AP2.0 is a consideration, remember it is not an option on the older models.

 

[DFWBrad]

Really interesting point... I'm not used to these cars, crazy to think low miles can actually be a bad thing in some cases.

Probably want to try and go with the newest as possible solely for the 8 year battery warranty alone.

 

[Krash]

+1 for 2016 AP2 cars. Free unlimited supercharging will transfer unless Tesla removed it on lease return, trade-in or similar.

 

[whitex]

Avoid the older models unless you have a spare $20K laying around for a worst case scenario. 2014's have warranties expiring on HV battery this year.

If you save $20K buying an older model, your worst case is covered, and best case you saved $20K.

 

[Rqcg]

Hi everyone,
I've been looking into Tesla for a couple months now , finally settled on getting a used Model S and adding the Jump Seats to it (if it doesn't already have it)

I'm stuck between 2 options and I've had a hard time tracking the various options and upgrades that happened during this time frame, the quality of the build and need for an extended warranty, etc.

Basically, I'm looking at the following 2 options:

2014-2015 P85D - no extended warranty available from Tesla, but can find really low miles, like 30-40k, for around $55k

2017-2018 75D - might qualify for their extended service contract, lose out on some battery and performance, and pay a premium for the lower miles options, so in my budget I'd probably have to get something with 90k+ miles.

I don't have a good sense of what these additional miles do to the car (normal wear and tear as well as battery degradation) VS the later production quality and features.

What would you choose and why?

If you see an older Tesla (2012-2014) you’d want it with more miles because they would have more things repaired! Original drive units were bad. Door handles were prone to issues. HV battery could still be due for failure.

 

[Sonofman]

I always tell buyers to get the longest range they can afford and ideally a 2016.5 or newer for FSD capability if they decide in the future. Having dashcam, sentry mode, and the rest of the latest software puts them in a good position to own the car a long time.

If you can get one, I see 100Ds available in the mid 50s which I consider a bargain.

 

[father_of_6]

If you save $20K buying an older model, your worst case is covered, and best case you saved $20K.

A "glass half empty" way of looking at it is... worst case scenario, you paid full new price for a very used vehicle.