You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
That's odd, I could have sworn square d made a 90 amp qc breaker. I'm going back to check now to see if I was crazy.
I have a 90 amp breaker sitting on my shelf.
OooooohhhhhhTga was saying that he didn’t believe there was a residential breaker temperature rated for 90 degrees C. Not 90 amps.
Getting the Tesla Wall Connector. I have a NEMA 14-50 plug installed currently. I am only charging 1 model S. What do I tell the electrician I need, a 40 or 60 amp breaker or higher?
Here is the Tesla guide on the HPWC installation ... Home charging installationUploaded pics from the manual of settings that the HPWC is capable of. Get the biggest breaker size you can or whatever fits your charging needs based on the km/hr chart shown.
Note* if your panel can not handle a big breaker due to load restrictions. it is probably favourable to get a load sharing device between your tesla and your oven or clothes dryer that automatically stops car charinging when appliance is in use then restarts charge afterwords. This may get you a bigger breaker size for the charger
That's interesting that 80 amp is listed as 54, but half that amperage is listed at 29. I wonder if there are heat losses somewhere in there.Here is the Tesla guide on the HPWC installation ... Home charging installation
View attachment 268526
That's interesting that 80 amp is listed as 54, but half that amperage is listed at 29. I wonder if there are heat losses somewhere in there.
You shouldn't really do this - better and safer to install a 14-30 outlet and get the matching UMC adapter. That will automatically force the car to 24A - no need to manually dial back the charge current.On a related question I'm having some remodeling done. Maybe not the best way but currently I have a 14-50 on a 30-amp circuit - in my 100d capable of 72 amp charging I have manually rolled that down to 24 amps. Not terribly fast but it works most of the time.
You can't install a 14-50 with a 60A breaker - it's a major NEC violation, fire hazard, a general no-no, and won't pass inspection. No (competent, licensed) electrician would do this. Anyone who does this (and calls themselves an electrician) probably found his licence at the bottom of a Cracker Jack box.Was thinking with the upgrade to just have the electrician make this a 60-amp still with the 14-50.
The only way to charge at 48A is with a HPWC. The UMC can't deliver more than 40A (and the new ones are limited further to 32A). At UMC power levels (<=40A), the HPWC is arguably heavier duty, less likely to overheat, and a bit more robust (being hardwired vs a plug).My question - at 60 amps (48 usable) (or even 30 amps) is there any advantage to having a HPWC? Short of an emergency trip I can't imagine ever needing the time I might gain with a 90-amp circuit. No plans for a 2nd EV.
Yes, sorry for the confusion - 90A breakers exist. But I don't think you'll find a residential, low voltage (<600V) breaker with a 90 degree C rating. I've only seen ones marked 60/75 or 75. That means you can't use the 90 degree column for rating conductors to attach to it.Tga was saying that he didn’t believe there was a residential breaker temperature rated for 90 degrees C. Not 90 amps.
00 (aka 2/0 or "double aught") is never needed for a HPWC install. 2/0 copper is good for 175A max (charging at 80% would be 175*.8 = 140A charging) - that's double what a 100D @ 72A needs.Dual chargers need 200 amp service to house, empty slot for 100 amp breaker, 00 wire.
For 80A operation, use 3AWG 167°F (75°C) rated copper wire or follow local regulations.