Can you say based on your experience that these are 100% fixed? I want to be as sure as I can be given that I’m paying for them. Did you disassemble the -J parts, or just fit them and observe their effectiveness?
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Glare from side repeaters in blind spot camera?
- Thread starter Drlev
- Start date
Tevo Solutions
Former Vendor
Yes, I thought I posted that earlier.
There are two types of camera which have the glare fixed. The ones with tape applied to the camera PCB and the ones using black glue on the camera PCB.
The -D cameras have the black glue. I can't say 100% about the -J ones as I haven't opened one up but they are a very similar p/n to the ones with black tape inside so at the moment I'm guessing they are taped.
Hmm ok. I thought the consensus was that the -C cameras (black tape) weren’t completely fixed and that therefore one had to make sure one got the -D cameras to be absolutely sure that it is resolved. I thought I’d read of people getting the -C part and not being happy with the result.
Following your earlier post saying that the -J was the “alternate part with no glare” I assumed it would be equivalent to -D.
I don’t want any glare at all.
Following your earlier post saying that the -J was the “alternate part with no glare” I assumed it would be equivalent to -D.
I don’t want any glare at all.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
Not true. I haven't been follow closely but I remember only one or two lucked out and got cameras replaced under warranty à with both having the problem. Other than that almost all of them were replaced either from it only happening to one camera or they paid for it.It seems a bit silly for them to update the cameras for free if I actually have a warranty issue with them. Looks like I'll have to find a way to "break" the other one
Update. Service told me they had a recent internal notice telling them that they should not be doing these replacements under warranty, and that I would have to pay to get it replaced.
Not sure what to think. She tried to tell me people are only getting them repaired for free because their repeaters have separate issues, but this thread seems to say otherwise.
People have posted pretty much the same message of Tesla rejecting warranty claims, so obviously that is official policy from above, although people obviously are free to try to slip through. Just don't expect however that having one slip through means it sets a precedent that every SC is obligated to follow.
Tevo Solutions
Former Vendor
The cameras with black tape fix show no glare at all. Initially, it looked like the -D cameras were the only ones guaranteed to fix the issue, but Tesla then told me this -J camera is the only one they are now selling (at least in the UK).Hmm ok. I thought the consensus was that the -C cameras (black tape) weren’t completely fixed and that therefore one had to make sure one got the -D cameras to be absolutely sure that it is resolved. I thought I’d read of people getting the -C part and not being happy with the result.
Following your earlier post saying that the -J was the “alternate part with no glare” I assumed it would be equivalent to -D.
I don’t want any glare at all.
The performance of the -J and -D camera is identical. No glare. If you can get either you'll be OK.
I had my replaced at my own cost with Ds. I have no more glare at night.
Now, because I had them replaced, I notice that when I go into Reverse-->I takes too long for all 3 of my cameras to come up (I have to wait for them/heard this is a recall item maybe?) AND both my side repeaters start PINK before turning on normally.
Anybody else seeing this? Please DM or share. Thanks all.
Now, because I had them replaced, I notice that when I go into Reverse-->I takes too long for all 3 of my cameras to come up (I have to wait for them/heard this is a recall item maybe?) AND both my side repeaters start PINK before turning on normally.
Anybody else seeing this? Please DM or share. Thanks all.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
According to federal law, the rear view must come up in less than 2 seconds (the recall was related to this). The side views are optional so they don't matter in terms of the law.
Well I had both of my repeater camera assemblies replaced by a ranger the Friday just gone. The good news is that it looks like it’s fixed the problem.
The bad news is that my car is just a mess now. I went to drive it today and I have no AP or TACC. I expected that, I was told it would need to do a bit of a recalibration. The problem is there’s no evidence of that recalibration taking place - no alert or notice message, no blue progress wheel, etc. Attempting to engage TACC is met with an error that says “Cruise control unavailable”.
On top of that, when I go into Drive or Reverse, the car visualisation that normally changes to a side profile to behind the car doesn’t change at all, even when I’m driving. Additionally, the map marker doesn’t move - I did a 10 mile drive today and my car didn’t move according to the map. TeslaMate equally confirms a 10 mile drive where I didn’t leave the drive.
I spoke to the ranger on the phone and he tried pushing 2022.12.1 to my car. Both times when I tried to install it, it hung. The first time was on 30%, the second time 10%. I left it for 2 hours, stuck on 10%, before accepting that it wasn’t going to finish.
I’ve rebooted the car twice to no avail.
The current working theory is that because I incidentally updated the car from 2022.8.3 to 2022.12.1 even offered, after having had the cameras replaced, but before driving the car anywhere, that somehow this update has left the cameras messed up somehow (they work on the display).
So yeah, pretty disappointing, especially with the Easter break. The car is drivable but with no driver assistance stuff, and a map that doesn’t work (so no navigation).
The bad news is that my car is just a mess now. I went to drive it today and I have no AP or TACC. I expected that, I was told it would need to do a bit of a recalibration. The problem is there’s no evidence of that recalibration taking place - no alert or notice message, no blue progress wheel, etc. Attempting to engage TACC is met with an error that says “Cruise control unavailable”.
On top of that, when I go into Drive or Reverse, the car visualisation that normally changes to a side profile to behind the car doesn’t change at all, even when I’m driving. Additionally, the map marker doesn’t move - I did a 10 mile drive today and my car didn’t move according to the map. TeslaMate equally confirms a 10 mile drive where I didn’t leave the drive.
I spoke to the ranger on the phone and he tried pushing 2022.12.1 to my car. Both times when I tried to install it, it hung. The first time was on 30%, the second time 10%. I left it for 2 hours, stuck on 10%, before accepting that it wasn’t going to finish.
I’ve rebooted the car twice to no avail.
The current working theory is that because I incidentally updated the car from 2022.8.3 to 2022.12.1 even offered, after having had the cameras replaced, but before driving the car anywhere, that somehow this update has left the cameras messed up somehow (they work on the display).
So yeah, pretty disappointing, especially with the Easter break. The car is drivable but with no driver assistance stuff, and a map that doesn’t work (so no navigation).
Have you used the "recalibrate cameras" menu in Service menu?
Yes. I’m turning the feature off. It’s ok during the day. But at night their is a glare from the car lights. Also it pops up on the screen and hides some of the screen monitors image of cars behind you and coming up on your left or right side. Tesla should have also incorporated the yellow caution “car approaching ” light in the side view mirrors like any decent newer car has today.
@Tevo Solutions
First, I just wanted to thank you for posted such a professional, detailed, and thorough video to help out other owners. Absolutely top notch.
But after going through the process on one of my cameras, I was wondering how you came up with the precise locations for drilling the holes?
I ask because it seemed like it might've been easier to get the sealant in the right spots if the holes were moved a few mm's closer together. I had to go through both holes at a sharper angle than otherwise seemed necessary if the holes were closer, and that made it harder to see and reach the spots where the sealant needed to go.
Also, there was some kind of protrusion inside the housing straight beneath the rear-side hole (i.e., the hole on the left in the image below), whereas if that hole was shifted just a few mm's towards the other hole, that protrusion would have been more out of the way.
And here are some looks at the "protrusion" I was referring to:
Here's what I had to do. Drilled and dremeled a slit. Now I can see what to cover. I used black rtv because that's what I had. Also used to seal it back up. Not only a camera calibration is needed but the car has to power off and back on to recognize the camera again. BIG THANKS to Tevo Solutions for figuring this out! No more glare!
Relatedly, I saw in this post where @Demented_Y cut a slot all the way between the two holes to make it easier to get to the right spots, and removing this extra material in between the holes didn't seem to have any negative effects. So this makes me wonder if the holes could be closer together without causing any collateral damage while making it easier to apply the sealant and without But I wonder if the holes were just closer together if it would have negated the need to remove as much extra material as Demented_Y did.
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Don't let them use the ones with tape over the holes. They'd be ripping you off.
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