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Glare from side repeaters in blind spot camera?

Don't let them use the ones with tape over the holes. They'd be ripping you off.

Is there any functional difference? Like a sharper image?

If you touch the blinker arrow on the screen the camera turns off. This help when your sitting at a light waiting to turn.

You can also swipe down on the video feed window.
 
Is there any functional difference? Like a sharper image?
Nope, but the ones with tape over the holes are the same as the defective ones, just that someone has put tape over the holes to stop the light from bleeding through. If all you want is tape over the holes, you can pull off your blind spot cameras and try to do it yourself, and have the service center replace the cameras if you screw up the process.
 
Nope, but the ones with tape over the holes are the same as the defective ones, just that someone has put tape over the holes to stop the light from bleeding through. If all you want is tape over the holes, you can pull off your blind spot cameras and try to do it yourself, and have the service center replace the cameras if you screw up the process.
Not exactly that easy cracking that open without cutting it. Taped model or new same same you’ll Never know the difference.
 
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stopcrazypp

Well-Known Member
Dec 8, 2007
12,151
8,000
Not exactly that easy cracking that open without cutting it. Taped model or new same same you’ll Never know the difference.
There is also a "new model" (1495865-20-C and 1495864-20-C) that does not have the holes but still has light bleed (light is leaking through the translucent glue on the top). I have those. A taped model would be an improvement over that.

More details up thread:
Glare from side repeaters in blind spot camera?
 
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Taped model or new same same you’ll Never know the difference.
That’s why I didn’t understand why it would matter if you got the taped version. I didn’t think the owner would ever notice a difference.

Nope, but the ones with tape over the holes are the same as the defective ones, just that someone has put tape over the holes to stop the light from bleeding through. If all you want is tape over the holes, you can pull off your blind spot cameras and try to do it yourself, and have the service center replace the cameras if you screw up the process.

As described earlier in this thread, the fix isn’t to crack open the entire case and add tape. It’s to drill a couple small holes and add some black sealant using a toothpick or other small tool to get the sealant in there, and then close up those holes. It’s not 100% dummy proof, but not super risky either. And it works well to negate the light bleed / glare.
 

Durzel

Active Member
Jul 17, 2019
4,531
3,368
Bath, UK
In my experience, in Europe, Tesla UK wouldn't sell me the -D parts. I tried, twice, and they supplied the -C parts instead. When pushed I was told that there had been a directive from up high that they were not supplying the -D parts until they had reduced their inventory of -C ones.

In the end, following advice from @Tevo Solutions, I ended up switching the parts request to 1125106-50-J and 1125107-50-J respectively, which I've been led to believe are equivalent to 1495864-20-D and 1495865-20-D. For whatever reason these parts were available to buy from Tesla.

The -C parts, as mentioned, fix the problem with tape over the 3 holes in the PCB. I don't know whether that fixes the problem effectively, I'm sure i saw in a video that it can still have light bleed.

My attitude with this was that if I was paying for replacement cameras (I tried getting them done under warranty, even providing examples where others had done so, with no luck) then I was sure as s**t not going to pay for cameras that didn't fix the problem 100%.
 

stopcrazypp

Well-Known Member
Dec 8, 2007
12,151
8,000
In my experience, in Europe, Tesla UK wouldn't sell me the -D parts. I tried, twice, and they supplied the -C parts instead. When pushed I was told that there had been a directive from up high that they were not supplying the -D parts until they had reduced their inventory of -C ones.

In the end, following advice from @Tevo Solutions, I ended up switching the parts request to 1125106-50-J and 1125107-50-J respectively, which I've been led to believe are equivalent to 1495864-20-D and 1495865-20-D. For whatever reason these parts were available to buy from Tesla.

The -C parts, as mentioned, fix the problem with tape over the 3 holes in the PCB. I don't know whether that fixes the problem effectively, I'm sure i saw in a video that it can still have light bleed.

My attitude with this was that if I was paying for replacement cameras (I tried getting them done under warranty, even providing examples where others had done so, with no luck) then I was sure as s**t not going to pay for cameras that didn't fix the problem 100%.
That's not quite correct. The C part has no holes in the PCB, but still has light bleed due to translucent glue on the top. The ones with the tape applied have no light bleed.
 
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Following up on my earlier post, I just did the glare fix on my left side camera after doing the right camera last week, but this time I drilled the holes in slightly different locations than what @Tevo Solutions originally recommended.

Instead of drilling the two holes 3mm and 23mm from the inner edge of the front tab, I shifted both holes 4mm towards the middle — so 7mm and 19mm from the tab. This made it quite a bit easier for me to get the sealant in the right places.

1653932449601.png


Tools/materials I used:
  • A Dremel with a fine-tipped bit to accurately drill the pilot holes. (A small regular drill bit would've worked too.)
  • A 3/16” drill bit to widen the holes
  • Black “liquid electrical tape” as the sealant
  • A toothpick to apply the sealant
  • J-B Weld KwikWeld epoxy to fill the holes
One other note: I found it difficult to remove the larger of the two connectors from the repeater when removing it from the car. I couldn’t push hard enough on the release tab to get it to budge, and I ended up breaking a bit of plastic off the repeater-side connector on on the right side repeater when trying to pull it off. (Weak thumbs, I guess.) So on the left side repeater I used a pair of pliers to help push in the release tab, and that worked better for me.
 

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