yup it's actually not bad of a price for the upgrade. I was ready to make the payment for it too before they said it was covered under warranty. I believe you can find those cameras on eBay for around $100 but for the peace of mind and knowing it's gonna be covered under warranty $350 is not bad. Plus they come to your house
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Glare from side repeaters in blind spot camera?
- Thread starter Drlev
- Start date
Are you sure? When you ask Tesla to install a different part number than the car came with, what warranty do they have on that? Just until the normal 4 year warranty expires, or longer?
I am doing this right now. So far your instructions worked for me.
Now I am debating what the best way to fill the holes is. I have permatex black silicone and gorillaweld 2part adhesive.
Decided to take a different approach then the drilling. I was going to replace the repeater covers to the ribbed version anyways so I removed them and made a triangle cut with a hot knife like this
After cleaning up the cut and sealing the camera and the LED I epoxied the triangle piece back
Few additional photos
My DIY hot knife for 40W solder iron hehe
After cleaning up the cut and sealing the camera and the LED I epoxied the triangle piece back
Few additional photos
My DIY hot knife for 40W solder iron hehe
@bnone - Thanks so much for this idea! I had tried to do one camera the old way with the drilled holes on the backside with not a lot of success- getting stuff injected in the right places was hard.
Realizing that I could remove the chrome cap, go in that way, and then use the cap to cover it back up? Genius. Did both my cameras and they are perfect now and you can't even tell they have been modified because there's no modifications to any visible parts even if they are out of the car.
To throw in my own improvement: I used a black plastic bag and cut it up and shoved it in-between the light pipe and the camera. This allows you to see that you're actually fixing it in real time, and is much easier and more reliable than trying to get goop in the right places (but not wrong places). Using this I literally got down to zero bleed at all.
Oh, and there's really nothing to hit when you cut in the areas shown in their photos. I used a dremel just fine, and it's OK if it goes into the housing some as you're cutting.
Throw the cameras in an oven at about 175F for half an hour to make peeling the chrome cap off easy.
Realizing that I could remove the chrome cap, go in that way, and then use the cap to cover it back up? Genius. Did both my cameras and they are perfect now and you can't even tell they have been modified because there's no modifications to any visible parts even if they are out of the car.
To throw in my own improvement: I used a black plastic bag and cut it up and shoved it in-between the light pipe and the camera. This allows you to see that you're actually fixing it in real time, and is much easier and more reliable than trying to get goop in the right places (but not wrong places). Using this I literally got down to zero bleed at all.
Oh, and there's really nothing to hit when you cut in the areas shown in their photos. I used a dremel just fine, and it's OK if it goes into the housing some as you're cutting.
Throw the cameras in an oven at about 175F for half an hour to make peeling the chrome cap off easy.
If you have a pre-2021 car with the chrome trim, these newer cameras don't have the chrome cover, which you'd have to buy from Tesla additionally, or be OK with the black camera.
Be very careful buying off ebay- you damage the camera removing it unless you have paid attention on how to remove them, and 95% of the cameras on ebay have damaged mounting tabs. Even Tesla considers these a "one time use" part. Make sure you look at the pictures carefully. It is totally possible to remove them without damage in under 5 minutes.
I actually don't even follow those instructions. Pop open the fender liner as shown, stick your hand in there, undo the two lower clips, and then tilt the assembly out and down. I've never needed to do the initial tape / press down step.
The mobile service tech who replaced mine broke both tabs during my upgrade. I told him ahead of time that I wanted to keep the old ones with intent to repair and resell. He couldn't promise they wouldn't brake and he failed in that attempt. Seems he was trained only to go in from the back if they don't pop out from prying at the front. Lesson learned: Release tabs from the back if you want to remove without breaking them.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
The tabs are super easy to break (I broke one when removing for PPF, superglued it back) and it takes a bit of skill to release them from the back without breaking them, given you do it mostly by feel. Once you figure out how to do it though, you sort of get the hang of it and can repeatedly do it (so the guys for example that do PPF likely can easily do it).
IMO, most people would not want to try this method given ANY other alternative. I suppose it will be a good conversation starter though.
I had 3 alternatives and this by far was the fastest, cheapest, and most effective way for me. I've tried 2 other methods and neither worked as well.
But yeah, let's be honest, 99% of people would rather spend money and throw the old stuff out than DIY, but that's not unique to this situation.
Oh geez, that's genius. I can't believe I didn't think of that. If you've done it once or twice, you could actually do this repair right on car in under 10 minutes.
The previous method had a hole in the top of the camera housing, which you could basically see from outside the car because it was right up against the fender. Plenty of water got on there. If you're not sealing any of these methods well when you're done, you have a problem no matter what.
The genius of this is that you remove a large cover from the area, cut a hole, then seal that hole, then seal over the sealed hole with the cover. You have two layers of protection vs one.
Personally, I silicone'd the whole cover back on. I'm much more confident that this ends up watertight than the previous method.
The cut is epoxied and also covered entirely with a chrome trim piece
My mistake, I didn't realize this would be covered up by the old style chrome piece.
My mistake, I didn't realize this would be covered up by the old style chrome piece.
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