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Glare from side repeaters in blind spot camera?

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If I’m paying for replacements I damn well want the ones I paid for when I bought the car. If they’re going to do them under warranty then I’d expect them to take them back.
My understanding is in most jurisdictions, if you pay for a repair, you can request the old parts back (other than if there is something like a core charge/credit or if there is a safety/environmental reason not to do so, for example like spent AC refrigerant). The individual technicians working however may not know this however, especially if most of what they do is warranty work (where they always take back the old parts), and it may not apply to all jurisdictions (look up your local laws).
 
Yep I essentially got the same message. My quote is what everyone else is seeing here, labor and parts totaling around $400 or something
My quote from the STL Service Center came to $501.22, $87.50 for each repeater, $150 labor for each, and $22 in tax. So $175 in parts and $300 labor. I accepted the quote and have a mobile tech coming on March 8th to install them.

Now having said all this, buying a new Y seems like a much better proposition with each passing day and new or upgraded features. But I'm holding off for confirmation I can order a new Y with the 4680 batteries.
 
My quote from the STL Service Center came to $501.22, $87.50 for each repeater, $150 labor for each, and $22 in tax. So $175 in parts and $300 labor. I accepted the quote and have a mobile tech coming on March 8th to install them.

Now having said all this, buying a new Y seems like a much better proposition with each passing day and new or upgraded features. But I'm holding off for confirmation I can order a new Y with the 4680 batteries.
Just looked at mine, $470 total. $105 for labor, $130 for the camera and then taxes. Funny how prices are all over the place
 
Odd. As you guys know, the lights on my car were replaced (surprise!) under warranty. But, before that happened, I had an estimate for the R&R:
"The camera/turn signal hardware was $130 apiece and $30 labor each, for a total of $341 with tax."
That was for a mobile tech out of the Springfield, NJ service center.
It sure didn't take the man long to swap the lights. He had a small, plastic mini-crowbar that he slipped under the bottom edge (I think) of each light, both of which promptly popped right out. A bit of struggling with the two connectors (it was cold out), and then he sat in the car for about ten or fifteen minutes trying to get the car to update to.. the software load it already had.
Don't know what the hourly rate is for a mobile tech; $60 for the two sounds right to me, but what do I know?
 
Tesla parts in the UK have told me there are new part numbers which supersede the 1495865-20-D & 1495864-20-D cameras we thought were the latest.
The latest p/n are 1125106-50-J and 1125107-50-J.
I'm ordering a couple in and will report back with any obvious changes.
 
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Googling 1125106-50-J reveals that they appear to be a revision of an earlier part. No idea why both 1125106-50-J/1125107-50-J and 1495864-20-D/1495865-20-D exist in the EPC and appear to be the same part.

I'm supposed to be getting the 1495864-20-D/1495865-20-D parts fitted Friday, and I'm expecting to be paying for them, so would like to make sure I've got the "best" version of this fix.

Also looking through previous posts 1125106-50-J/1125107-50-J has existed since at least the start of February, so don't think it's "new" as in something only very recently added.
 
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I have a feeling 1125106-50-J/1125107-50-J will be the version with black tape over the via holes and camera whereas 1495864-20-D/1495865-20-D will have no via holes and use black glue The PCBs and components are very different between the two, but maybe it's wrong to assume the 112510x-xx-x cameras are an older generation of camera?
It could just be down to Tesla using two different suppliers for these parts. Dual supply is always a good thing, especially in the times we're living in now!
 
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I may have caused some confusion when I posted info on my Service Request to have my side Repeater Cameras Replaced, which was based on a faulty Estimate I received from Tesla. A day later they amended it. This time here's a copy.
rGOS6tM.png
 
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I think he means the general usability of them. I find the glare distracting at night to the point that I’d rather turn the function off completely at night.
Yes, exactly. Especially when the older cameras were a bit dirty, the glare made them very poor at night. It's much better now. The color tone is also better, probably because there is less software filtering now that there is no more light leakage.
 
So how many people paid to get this done vs got it covered under warranty?

Here’s my service for the right replacement with zero glare.

My left has glare. I’m wondering if you can just tell service that your cameras work sometimes and are glitchy and theyll replace it under warranty?
 

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I just finished installing the D rev cameras this past weekend myself. Total came out to $280 for the two cameras plus the two chrome trim pieces which I paid for myself. The new cameras completely fixed the glare issue. The service center originally received one C rev camera by mistake so it took about a month to get all the parts in. They verified while I was there that per the service bulletin they have that the D rev cameras will resolve this issue and not the C rev ones. There was one other p/n listed per side that was listed as being used to resolve this issue; I didn't think much of it but after reading the last few comments it may have been that the 1125106-50-J/1125107-50-J parts that were listed as also resolving the glare issue. I suspect these are cameras from another supplier.

The first camera was a bit tricky to remove but after figuring out a good technique the second one came out much quickier. I would recommend gaining access behind the wheel well liner instead of just trying to get the cameras out from the outside. Get behind the camera and try to push both bottom tabs up so they're no longer engaged. After that, use a plastic pry tool to try to get the top edge of the camera free from the fender while still providing pressure on the inside bottom two clips. Apply masking tape around the camera while doing all of this to avoid any possible paint damage.

The only issue I had was that I found the clips on the bottom two edges of the new cameras to be quite weak; I broke two of these clips off just handling the cameras when I was removing the black trim/installing the chrome trim and another piece broke off at install. The lack of these clips did not appear to have any effect on keeping the cameras installed into my fenders though. A small dab of rtv was going to be my backup option if the camera ended up being loose.
 
Never knew we had this feature from Christmas update? Found it today when I was setting up M3LR I picked up today. Turned it on my wife's M3SRP we got in September and both cars work perfect day and night left and right.

Read most of the 19 pages...was it a software update then for most cars and camera issue with others? Thanks.
 
Never knew we had this feature from Christmas update? Found it today when I was setting up M3LR I picked up today. Turned it on my wife's M3SRP we got in September and both cars work perfect day and night left and right.

Read most of the 19 pages...was it a software update then for most cars and camera issue with others? Thanks.
The hardware (cables, cameras, CPU, display) always supported the view from the side cameras; software enabled it late last year.

The problem, which given the dates when you got your cars you niftly ducked, was that old versions of the camera had internal pinholes in a circuit board that let light from the turn signals get into the guts of the cameras themselves, resulting in this orange glare. Not a problem during daytime, when the light from what the camera was focusing upon was bright, but bad enough in low light situations (i.e., the sun's down) to make the feature worthless. Like I said, your cars have later cameras where the problem was fixed, either with some tape over the pinholes in question or a redesigned circuit board with the pinholes filled in.
Don't worry, be happy.
 
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