I'm thinking of gluing the J1772 locking ring onto the adapter. One less thing to deal with. Anyone do that? Can you think of any reasons not to?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Glue J1772 Lock onto Adapter?
- Thread starter PianoAl
- Start date
You'd be gluing the J1772 handle onto the adapter as well. If the ring cannot be moved off of the adapter, you can't remove the handle. That's the whole point of having the locking ring in the first place (the side of the vehicle prevents the ring from being moved off of the adapter because the adapter is locked to the vehicle).
RayK
Active Member
I don't think gluing is necessary from the standpoint of the locking ring accidentally falling off the J1772 adapter. Both of mine fit tightly around the barrels of the adapters (have non-flange and flange type J1772 adapters) that it's very hard to remove them once in place. I believe that both are/were 3D printed and the materials/design used prevent loss of the locking ring.
In fact, if you glue the locking ring in place, you're never going to be able to attach the J1772 handle to the Tesla adapter. The latch of the handle needs to go under the locking ring for it to work.
In fact, if you glue the locking ring in place, you're never going to be able to attach the J1772 handle to the Tesla adapter. The latch of the handle needs to go under the locking ring for it to work.
RayK
Active Member
If you do a lot of J1772 charging, especially in public places with limited charging stations in the area, I'd say "yes" to the recommendation. While I've never been personally affected by somebody coming along and unplugging my car, it can and does happen.
The two types of Tesla J1772 adapter is covered here: Using Existing Nema 14-50 Power Outlet to charge Model 3 Performance
What recommendations are you looking for: old (non-lip/non-flange) vs. new (lip/flange) J1772 adapter design? If so, I don't think it really functionally matters. Both will adapt the J1772 handle to your Tesla. If you are more concerned about the locking ring designs and want a recommendation for which one to select, then I believe that the non-lip/non-flange designs are simpler and should probably cost less. The locking ring design for the lip/flange adapters are much more complex and thus could cost more.
ref: J1772 Adapter Part Number Confirmation (it looks like the eBay listing for the non-lip design is dead but you can still see what it looks like in the photo)
The two types of Tesla J1772 adapter is covered here: Using Existing Nema 14-50 Power Outlet to charge Model 3 Performance
What recommendations are you looking for: old (non-lip/non-flange) vs. new (lip/flange) J1772 adapter design? If so, I don't think it really functionally matters. Both will adapt the J1772 handle to your Tesla. If you are more concerned about the locking ring designs and want a recommendation for which one to select, then I believe that the non-lip/non-flange designs are simpler and should probably cost less. The locking ring design for the lip/flange adapters are much more complex and thus could cost more.
ref: J1772 Adapter Part Number Confirmation (it looks like the eBay listing for the non-lip design is dead but you can still see what it looks like in the photo)
Yes--all of the reasons. That can't work the way it seems you are picturing it.
You seem to be picturing gluing the locking ring only onto the adapter. If you do that, you can NEVER get a J1772 plug into it, because that's the point of what the locking ring does, is to prevent the latch on the 1772 plug from being raised or lowered. So you would then have a ring glued onto an adapter that could never be used.
You have to be able to put the J1772 plug into the adapter first, and then slip the ring over it. That prevents the latch from moving. So then in reverse, you have to slip the locking ring off first, before you can remove the J1772 plug.
Or, option 2:
Are you talking about putting a J1772 plug into the adapter, and then slipping the locking ring on it, and gluing that in place on them? If so, then that prevents the J1772 latch from ever coming up, and you will never be able to separate the two. So if someone with another kind of EV comes over that needs a J1772 plug, they can't use yours. You now have a plug that always and forever has the Tesla adapter glued onto the end of it, and it's no different than a Tesla-proprietary wall connector or UMC plug. Why would you do that? The point of having a J1772 is the flexibility to use it directly on non-Tesla cars or put the adapter on it to use it with Tesla cars.
Folks, you just need a small combo or pad lock that goes through the J1772 handle holes while you're using a L2 charger. It keeps the L2 handle from being depressed, ensuring it stays locked to your adapter.
It can be used in tandem with the locking ring, or without it - it serves a different purpose, but the one the OP wants to solve.
It can be used in tandem with the locking ring, or without it - it serves a different purpose, but the one the OP wants to solve.
Public EVSEs generally do not have a hole for a padlock. Those holes are so you can lock your own EVSE to the car if the car doesn't have a locking mechanism. This is not to prevent someone from unplugging it but to prevent someone from walking off with your EVSE.
Gauss Guzzler
Safety Score = 42
What kinda hellscape are you charging in? Hard to imagine some methhead being so desperate to get some charge into his $120K Mercedes that he'd savagely yank the cord right out of your car and proudly sit there for 5 hours waiting for you to return and try to defend your honor in a knife fight.
I could imagine Bezos coming up with a better design. The locking ring spring loaded in the forward position and when you insert into the car, it is pushed back. And, of course, when charging is complete and the Tesla releases the adapter, the ring slides forward again and you can remove the J-1772 plug. Use your imagination. LOL
I know I'm commenting on an old post, but at least the public ChargePoint ones used to, here's where it is, and it was to prevent someone unplugging you, because most EV's (aside from Tesla) you could otherwise unplug them even if the car was locked. That was even how the etiquette worked for the Chargepoints at my office, you notified the next person they could unplug you without you being present (the etiquette didn't work mainly for Tesla's)
Maybe people were getting themselves into trouble not being to unlock themselves, and ChargePoint removed the hole? I think this may be a photo of a newer ChargePoint, there is certainly no hole under the button, but I wonder if the middle of the three divots above the "n" in "chargepoint" does the same thing (though you'd need some longer sort of cable lock) to loop through that)?
It makes less intuitive sense to me that the padlock hole would be for personal EVSE's, because most of those are in people's garages, where no one could steal your EVSE...
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