Going to order a new Model 3 performance. Should I consider the long range AWD?

[tm1v2]

My understanding is that you’d still have to get a relatively large wheel/tire size because of the larger brake rotors on the P than what’s on the LR. So you’d still have to pay a premium for 19”/20” wheels/tires even if you dump the OEM uberturbine wheels

@phaheem 18" wheels can fit over the M3P PUP brakes. I have 18x8.5" wheels on my 2021 M3P (with PUP), same size as the 18" aero wheels.

It is a snug fit and some 18s don't clear due to barrel or spoke shape, but many are known to fit, there are plenty of known good options. Some, like the wheels I got, are made specifically for the M3P, with the center bore machined for the "stepped lip" and the correct offset to match stock fitment. No centering rings or spacers needed.

 

[Apprunner]

The cost and longevity/durability of 20” tires alone steered me away from ordering the P. Can spend the $6k difference on investing in solar panels on your home to charge your Tesla for “free”

My understanding is that you’d still have to get a relatively large wheel/tire size because of the larger brake rotors on the P than what’s on the LR. So you’d still have to pay a premium for 19”/20” wheels/tires even if you dump the OEM uberturbine wheels

That was 2018. Many many choices for 18 inch wheels right now. I'm rolling on T-sportlines with PS4S tires. Much better ride quality now

 

[DayTrippin]

At least if I am paying a premium, I'll get much lighter/better wheels. The Ubers are super heavy. I do believe there are some 18" that fit from what I've read.

At the end I would spend the money on forged wheels and save a ton of weight and look better at the same time. On my Y I went with Martians and it made a huge difference in how the car felt to drive. It was so much more nimble and responsive. I imagine it would be even better on the 3 with the Ubers as they weigh more than the factory 19's did on my Y.

 

[Blacktes24]

Track mode really helps with aggressive canyon or track driving. The compressors run hard full time cooling the car greatly. Its useful if you plan on treating the car as a toy

The new motor in the Performance that is coming out is supposed to have a faster speed past 60mph. I would love to have a bit more oomph past 60mph.

when is the new motor supposed to come out and how much faster will it be? I'm wanting an accel boost option on my M3P. Someone tweet Elon and ask for it. I'd pay 2k to get 0-60 in 2.7 and 1/4 in the high 10s. lol

 

[Bouba]

I think that if you have to ask the question it means you want the P

 

[Evpowerdan]

I think that if you have to ask the question it means you want the P

Nah. IMO most ask the question to understand and justify the costs difference between the two. What do you gain or loose by choosing the SR+, LR or P?

If you live in snowy and super cold climates, the P will requires new all season or winter tires (which are super hard to find for 20" wheels with low profile tires). Summer tires and snow/ice/freezing temps is a super bad combination.

 

[metroplex]

^^This. I looked at my dad's Model 3 RWD reservation and it's $51k out the door, nothing special (MSM, Aero, no FSD). He was in shock at the price. The LR Aero is a no brainer, but the Track Mode and 980/3D1 rear drive on the Performance intrigues me. Hard decisions... and we're talking $70k-$71k out the door for a Performance.

I've driven in cold freezing weather with summer tires. As long as there's no ice/snow, it's fine as long as you're not trying to set some kind of lap record on the street for whatever reason. The OEM factory Conti summer tires (Sport Contact 2?) on my 2009 Cobalt SS Turbo are still on the car. They're almost 14 years old with 8k miles. I recently took her for a spin to get stuff moving/lubed and someone set up a parking lot with cones so I used it as a mini autocross thing and the tires gripped fine. They've seen years of freezing/thawing cycles but never driven in snow/ice.

 

[Bouba]

Nah. IMO most ask the question to understand and justify the costs difference between the two. What do you gain or loose by choosing the SR+, LR or P?

If you live in snowy and super cold climates, the P will requires new all season or winter tires (which are super hard to find for 20" wheels with low profile tires). Summer tires and snow/ice/freezing temps is a super bad combination.

What it means is...how can I justify the higher price? And the answer is...you can’t....so don’t !!
Just get the P.....sell a kid, sell a kidney