dwahl
Member
I drove the Tesla Model 3 '22 Long Range AWD & '22 Performance yesterday and Performance was very exciting. The 20’’ Überturbine Wheels work very well with Dual Motor Performance Magnets. Definitely worth the additional $8K.
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Going to order a new Model 3 performance. Should I consider the long range AWD?
- Thread starter Blacktes24
- Start date
I think if people could drive a LR with acceleration boost back to back with the P, there would be a lot less P sales. Not a lot of people can tell the difference between a car that runs 3.3 vs. 3.8 0-60 (with rollout). Not saying there isn't a difference but they both are going to feel hellaciously fast to 95% of the population who will be test driving them. The other 5% likely will want a Plaid anyway. 
Unfortunately you don't have the option of trying the LR with boost and a lot of people who are looking at them have no idea it is even an option. I can't even remember how many people I've talked to who had a 3 or Y performance even knew you could get the LR version with boost and how close it would be in acceleration. On paper it may seem to be a lot but in the real world the vast majority of the people won't notice.
My Y with boost will decimate an amazing number of cars on the street and it was about as quick as a stock 3 LR. The perfect launch every time means the other person better be on top of their game when they launch or you are going to beat them likely up into triple digits unless they are driving a really fast car. So when you look at 0-60 times for other cars, its helpful to keep in mind that those times were probably done under perfect circumstances and the average person won't get them on the street.
At this point when our 3 arrives in a few days boost is going on it as soon as we put a few shakedown miles on it to make sure no major issues.
@Ritz - As for better brakes, how often do you actually use the brakes other than regen in normal driving. All the research I did regarding the brake differences was wider rotors and painting the calipers. So rotors might be a benefit if you are actively tracking the car but then you have the supercharger issue at most tracks (where they don't have one) of keeping the power topped off to actually run fast laps. On my Y, even towing a trailer in some pretty hilly areas and going fairly fast, I never had an issue with brake fade which is what the wider rotors would help with. I had to brake down a pretty long hill with a 3k trailer beyond me and I still didn't have any brake fade with the stock brakes on my Y and it is a lot heavier than a 3.
Unfortunately you don't have the option of trying the LR with boost and a lot of people who are looking at them have no idea it is even an option. I can't even remember how many people I've talked to who had a 3 or Y performance even knew you could get the LR version with boost and how close it would be in acceleration. On paper it may seem to be a lot but in the real world the vast majority of the people won't notice.
My Y with boost will decimate an amazing number of cars on the street and it was about as quick as a stock 3 LR. The perfect launch every time means the other person better be on top of their game when they launch or you are going to beat them likely up into triple digits unless they are driving a really fast car. So when you look at 0-60 times for other cars, its helpful to keep in mind that those times were probably done under perfect circumstances and the average person won't get them on the street.
At this point when our 3 arrives in a few days boost is going on it as soon as we put a few shakedown miles on it to make sure no major issues.
@Ritz - As for better brakes, how often do you actually use the brakes other than regen in normal driving. All the research I did regarding the brake differences was wider rotors and painting the calipers. So rotors might be a benefit if you are actively tracking the car but then you have the supercharger issue at most tracks (where they don't have one) of keeping the power topped off to actually run fast laps. On my Y, even towing a trailer in some pretty hilly areas and going fairly fast, I never had an issue with brake fade which is what the wider rotors would help with. I had to brake down a pretty long hill with a 3k trailer beyond me and I still didn't have any brake fade with the stock brakes on my Y and it is a lot heavier than a 3.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Back in the day, when the only test drive cars were S/X, there was a secret menu on the performance cars that let you make it any lesser version of the car.... I had a 24 hour test drive of a P100D once with that menu enabled and it was pretty cool to be able to flip it "down" to all the slower (even single motor!) versions with a button press and compare.
Was disappointed Tesla never did that for the 3/Y.
Was disappointed Tesla never did that for the 3/Y.
metroplex
Gearhead
So I am in this situation as well. I want the Performance but I have seen more than once where the Performance wasn't significantly faster than the Long Range without the Accel Boost. Or stop faster.
Carwow has a YouTube video of the SR vs LR vs Performance. The perf ran the 1/4 in 11.7 while the LR did it in 12.2, but doing 30, 50, and 70 rolls the LR was right there or faster at the 130 mph range. From 70 to 0. The Performance didn't stop thst much sooner at all even with the bigger front brakes. I've seen a wide spread of 1/4 mile ETs for the Perf and LRAB to the point it seems that either the LRAB is dead even or a hair slower.
If Tesla will add Track Mode to the LRAB later on, I'm not sure there is a reason to get the Performance? Did I miss anything? Motors and battery seems to be the same. Maybe inverters are the same?
Carwow has a YouTube video of the SR vs LR vs Performance. The perf ran the 1/4 in 11.7 while the LR did it in 12.2, but doing 30, 50, and 70 rolls the LR was right there or faster at the 130 mph range. From 70 to 0. The Performance didn't stop thst much sooner at all even with the bigger front brakes. I've seen a wide spread of 1/4 mile ETs for the Perf and LRAB to the point it seems that either the LRAB is dead even or a hair slower.
If Tesla will add Track Mode to the LRAB later on, I'm not sure there is a reason to get the Performance? Did I miss anything? Motors and battery seems to be the same. Maybe inverters are the same?
@metroplex Track Mode is the biggest differentiator. If you don't care about that, sure get an LR.
If your plan is to buy an LR thinking it'll get Track Mode...I've got some oceanfront property in Nevada to sell you. It'll happen around the same time.
If your plan is to buy an LR thinking it'll get Track Mode...I've got some oceanfront property in Nevada to sell you. It'll happen around the same time.
metroplex
Gearhead
I remember reading someone in Twitter asked Elon for track mode on the LRAB and he said OK. Haha@metroplex Track Mode is the biggest differentiator. If you don't care about that, sure get an LR.
If your plan is to buy an LR thinking it'll get Track Mode...I've got some oceanfront property in Nevada to sell you. It'll happen around the same time.
What does track mode add? The ability to shift power to the front, rear, or sides?
ODWms
Member
I got the Performance back in 2018, and I haven’t spent a single moment regretting that decision. I’m sure I would have been regretting it had I gone the other way, and probably would have ended up trading for a P at some point anyway.
TBrownTX
Active Member
Truly little benefit to the P or the LR w/boost. This video was one of the key items that pushed me to go with a boosted Y, and then 3, along with some other detailed vids of how well the boosted ones run.
All I can say is I have never once regretted not buying the M3P. The 3 with boost is amazing bang for the buck. If track mode comes some day to the boosted cars, even better. When Tesla builds a proper 3 performance, then I'll revisit this question. For the extra you don't get enough to really differentiate the P from the supposedly more plebeian models.
I've ran a few Ps on the road and from a roll it was dead even. As for running a few other cars from a dig, the only one I lost to, I would have beaten him with a M3P either. So if you want to do as hard as launches as possible (in the 3 platform), then get the M3P, if you just want a really quick, fun car that easy to live and wheels/tires that will take the punishment of city streets, buy the LR and add boost, or maybe don't buy boost. Drive it for a while and then decide. A consistent low 4 second car 0-60 is pretty quick on its own.
metroplex
Gearhead
Thank you..
My current car is a tuned Fusion Sport, 0-60 in 4.3 and the 1/4 in the low 12s about the same as my older 2014 tuned SHO thst ran 12.4 all day long. 60' with both cars are 1.8xx all day on worn out street tires. I am surprised to see Tesla LRAB and Perf running 1.9 60' or 1.8 considering they are producing 450 ftlb or more right off the bat. My Fusion Sport gets to 450 plus ftlb above 3000 RPM and has similar top end horsepower and has similar weight
This is why it's important to me about the acceleration beyond just 0-60. The bigger brakes on the Perf don't seem to translate to better braking and the acceleration beyond 40 to 60 mph seems wonky compared to the LRAB.
I don't regret the M3P. Now with accel boost and no aero wheels and the price difference is only $1500 more for the M3P. And when people say it's "only" the 0-60 and that it's faster and then they are the same that might be true but the 0-60 is the best part....
metroplex
Gearhead
Yea the price difference now is $3000 with Aero Wheels and LRAB, but just last week it was about $5000. The Model 3 SR+/RWD and LR is now about $11k-$13k more than it was last year as well. With the M3P, different tires would be needed with SE MI roads, and that's the major factor but I am more interested in why the M3P's acceleration and braking isn't that consistent like in this video from Carwow
TBrownTX
Active Member
I also appreciate the extra appearance goodies.
Tim
Tim
This is something that’s not terribly well understood.
The larger brakes on the Perf do next to nothing with regard to stopping distance. What they do though is reduce brake fade. This matters greatly at the track; in normal everyday driving, it’s absolutely meaningless.
The tires you choose will make a much, much, much bigger impact on stopping distance than the size difference.
So … yeah. Choosing the Performance model for better street braking is a poor use of funds. Choosing it because you like the red underline, or the pedal covers is a much better reason.
metroplex
Gearhead
That I understand. Back when I was ordering my 09 Cobalt SS Turbo, it had the 4 piston Brembo brakes (very rare at the time for a factory option especially on a car that was so inexpensive at the time) and its stopping performance was comparable to the Mazdaspeed3 with its single? or double sliding caliper pistons. The Brembos were more fade resistant at the track. Tires did make a bigger difference for straight line stopping.
But did you see how the M3P 0-60 was only 0.5 seconds slower than the LR AWD in the CarWow video? Theoretically if that LR had the Accel Boost, it would match the M3P for 0-60 in that video. I know the advertised 0-60 is 3.1 with 1-ft rollout, but its the odd inconsistencies I'll come across from time to time. Like it's a software issue or power delivery issue.
@metroplex The most important thing Track Mode adds is dialing back the nannies, so you can actually put power down exiting turns, use the car's full grip+traction, and slide it if you like.
It also lets you influence front:back power split when giving it power in a turn, to have less or more understeer or oversteer under power. Useful when you want to avoid the car's normal rear-heavy bias.
Lastly you can adjust regen from all the way off to stronger than normal. That can be very useful at times too. E.g. extra strong for best efficiency in twisty back road driving, or turn it way down or off for snow driving or anytime you want to avoid the heavy rear bias of the car's regen.
@ODWms Same no regrets getting the M3P. Never regretted buying a top performing car model. Done that with my last 4 cars, zero regrets, it was always the right choice for me.
Anyone with LR vs P dilemma needs to know their own driving and preferences though. Me, if I got an LR I'd deeply regret getting a car as fun and capable as a Model 3 that's always hamstrung by the nannies. I'm not a typical driver though...
Plus I value the brakes and appearance bits too. The acceleration difference is probably the least important P benefit to me, to be honest, as I'm not focused on 0-60 and almost never floor a car this quick at those speeds. (That's just me, I know it's the main point of the P for many of you and that's okay too!)
metroplex
Gearhead
Appreciate the input! The one concern that seems to be echoed is that the 20" wheel/tires kind of gimp the daily driver aspect of the M3P. I talked to a co-worker that has a 21 Model S about tire sizes and he mentioned he just got some sidewall bubbles and is now looking at smaller wheel options. So if I get the M3P, I'd have to spend almost $3k for 18" wheels/tires or maybe 245/35R20 DWS06s for extra durability. I'm all for performance but don't like the idea of thin sidewall tires.
is there any advantage to the regen adjustment for maximizing efficiency? When I went on a road trip out west to the Rockies, there were a lot of steep grades where an ICE vehicle would coast downhill to 80-90+ mph without engine braking.
I could see the Track Mode being useful/fun on roads like Tail of the Dragon or other twisties like you mentioned.
Buy the LR! I’d rather less people have the Performance so my resale value will continue to climb, lol. Seriously though l, sounds like you want a LR, just buy it already bro. Everyone on here had to make their own decision as to which trim level they wanted, remember that, those are the trim level options. Just sayin
So I’ll just say I don’t watch YouTube stuff, especially so-called “experts”. The old “believe none of what you hear and half of what you see …” — so no, I didn’t see whatever video.
But all that said, that wouldn’t surprise me. The big difference between the LR and P is Track Mode, and a different rear motor. I have a 2019 LR, with the less capable rear motor. It was one of the first with the -990 motor; basically, the rear motor has less MOSFETs in it. Speed isn’t so much the concern as sustained performance without generating too much heat. That’s why Acceleration Boost is available but not Track Mode. Short bursts = OK. Sustained = not so much.
My opinion (worth all of what you paid for it) - if you want to impress your friends and snap your head back off the line occasionally, LR+AB all day.
If price is no object or you intend to take the car to a track, Performance is the no brainer.
If you do end up with the Performance, a set of 18” street wheels is the way to go. The 20s come with soft Performance tires that you’ll whittle down in no time, and would be completely inefficient - if not dangerous - in a Detroit winter.
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