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Got Bit By Homelink On My New Car...

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I picked up the car Monday and by Tuesday evening, I already damaged by car thanks to the Homelink auto-close. I had read about this happening, but it still didn't prevent me from enabling both auto-open and auto-close, since it sounded so cool. Not so cool and now I am sick to my stomach. :(

Granted, the damage is not horrendous and limited to a small area of the trunk edges, but it was a new car that now has a blemish. I contacted the service center, but they can't do any paintwork, so I will check out a body shop. Not sure how much they can do. I don't think a new trunk is called for, although I want the new car back.

M3 upper trunk edge damage.jpg

M3 lower trunk edge damage.jpg
 
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I had to reposition my wife’s car so I could access the wall plug. I pulled up to the garage and it auto-opened. Cool.

I pulled out my wife’s car and then when I got back into my car, turned it around so I could reverse into the garage, I did not notice that it send the door close command as if I were leaving.

The door came down just as I was entering garage so the safety switch on the garage didn’t trip. I heard a terrible noise that will exist in my nightmares and stopped pulled forward. I thought it had hit the rear glass and I didn’t see any marks, but on closer inspection I saw that the door was coming down just as I pulling in.

Just got an estimate from a body shop - $1000. They want to pull off the rear camera and lights and just concerned that it may affect the car’s computer in some way. They said they want to ‘clear the codes’ but don’t think this car works that way.

They say that it will be impossible to tell when they are done and the place can also ceramic coat it.
 
Ahhhh, yes. You pulled out and you should have heard the "dong" sound that tells you the door is activated(?) Since you were backing in, you caught it at the moment BEFORE you hit the eye beam. Almost happened to me. My door activates when I'm right at the bottom of the driveway. Sorry that happened to you!
 
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That really suckss!! Same thing happened to me too. They should really program it to send a signal to open the door when you're reversing toward the door.

Some of that may be paint transfer and can be buffed out.
I agree with the “paint” transfer. OP, I would take a clay bar to the areas, maybe a very gentle rubbing compound (only if you’re comfortable) and check it. You may find the fine scratches can be buffed out(?)
 
Just got an estimate from a body shop - $1000. They want to pull off the rear camera and lights and just concerned that it may affect the car’s computer in some way. They said they want to ‘clear the codes’ but don’t think this car works that way.

It's a straightforward repair, but I definitely would not want them to remove the camera if they aren't a Tesla qualified repair shop. I've read multiple stories of folks getting wraps and films and having cameras removed during the process and winding up with non functional cameras and a trip to the service center.

If you aren't getting an error message on the screen and the rear view camera is working there are no "codes to clear". As you surmised the car doesn't work this way. I don't see how you hit things hard enough to change the camera alignment.

Personally I'd chat with them again or given that bit of smoke and mirrors I'd find another shop.
 
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Here's an update...

I was about to go with the local body shop but wanted to check if there were authorized Tesla shops. Sure enough, I found the link from the website that showed one near my home and one near work. The one near work in Rockford, IL (Service King) did the majority of Tesla work. So I drove there for an estimate. They had 5-6 Teslas in various states of repair inside and another 5-6 outside in their lot. He showed me one Model X that has been in three times for major accident work. Apparently, some people have a hard time with the acceleration...

He quoted me about the same for the paint repair as the other shop, but what was different was the code checks. He explained that only Tesla authorized shops could use Tesla's Toolbox software for communicating with and programming the car computer. He said they would want to also remove the rear camera and rear reverse lights to paint and clear coat so I would see any lines. But he said that they would be able to re-program the firmware to recognize the components once they plugged everything back in, something he said the other shop wouldn't be able to do. The only part he had to order was the Tesla emblem and that was in stock. As a side note, they told me the wait for parts for some major repairs was 5-6+ weeks.

What was different was that the pre-scan, programming and post-scan using Toolbox would cost $150 each. Ouch. So around $450 more, but I felt much more confident that my car would work when I got it back. He also offered to touch up the damage with the same color paint from the paint shop on the spot, so it is not as noticeable. I thought that was a nice touch.

Tesla also has its own body shop just West of Chicago in Elk Grove Village. I thought about going there, but it would have been a lot more inconvenient. I also imaged that everyone from Chicago was using that shop.

Hopefully, this will be taken care of in the next two weeks.
 
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My safety sensor is only tripped when the tire/wheel is blocking it. Most of the time it’s shining the light under the car.
If it's the infrared beam style, you can add a second sensor higher up so the bumper trips it. If it's the laser type, you can move one end up and use mirrors to make a z pattern.

I did that after accidentally closing the garage door on my one week old Model S due to not pulling the car in quite far enough.
 
Sorry to the OP. I scuffed one of my wheels last week and almost cried. I've got the auto open and auto close activated on my garage and it works great. My wife's car is parked in another bay. That's on the Homelink also but with no auto open or close. I open the garage door, get in my car, back out and the door closes when I'm 20 feet away. When I come home, the door starts to open when I'm 20 feet away. I pull in and the garage door stays open until I close it using the control by the back door. Seems to me that it is working exactly as it should be. In all honesty, I particularly enjoy that feature.
 
Why people use this is beyond me. It does NOT know if the door is opened or closed.

I suspect most of that could buff out and a touch up kit for the rest. Bring it to a Detailer / Scratch & Dent place to get the buffing done.
Then buy the Tesla Paint patch kit. Several DIY threads on using that kit look really good. Or the Detailer / Scratch Dent place might appy the touch kit for you if you feel they can do it better.

Luckily nothing looks bent.
 
Why people use this is beyond me. It does NOT know if the door is opened or closed.

I suspect most of that could buff out and a touch up kit for the rest. Bring it to a Detailer / Scratch & Dent place to get the buffing done.
Then buy the Tesla Paint patch kit. Several DIY threads on using that kit look really good. Or the Detailer / Scratch Dent place might appy the touch kit for you if you feel they can do it better.

Luckily nothing looks bent.
To be fair, I have had no trouble with Homelink. The one time I almost got bit was my fault for not paying closer attention.