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Got new wheels. Only a credit card width between control arm and rims. Is it safe?

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Hi Danny,

I have considered that as well, but I think the stance would be too aggressive. Since I have 9.5" wheels, it will more be like 8.5 +12, and this makes the front stick out much more than the rear.

I think going with 19" wheels will solve all of this.
 
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Hi Danny,

I have considered that as well, but I think the stance would be too aggressive. Since I have 9.5" wheels, it will more be like 8.5 +12, and this makes the front stick out much more than the rear.

I think going with 19" wheels will solve all of this.
My fault, I mean't 18x9.5 +25 (long day...).
This set up will work, but you may have a bit more poke since you're not lowered.

What do you have in mind for 19"? Sticking with TEs?

Danny
 
I don't mind trading the TE's for something. Nothing in particular tho. Do you have anything in stock or accommodate a trade in?
Won't be able to take a trade in but I'm sure you won't have any issues selling TE37SL's in this climate of shortages haha.

We definitely can look into some 19" options though.

Feel free to send me a message. Will be happy to explore this with you.

Danny
 
Does anyone know what a safe thread engagement actually is? I've heard 7, I've heard its diameter / thread pitch, but interestingly enough the OEM lug nuts only have a maximum of 8 rotations (rough count with my eye), which is below the recommended 14/1.5=9.33.
On the other Forum the wheel and tire Guru is this guy Mad Hungarian who is extremely knowledgeable and a great resource. I'm pretty sure he says eight turns is a functional minimum. What you're shooting for is essentially a square box around which the distance of thread capture is at least equal to the thickness of the stud captured by the thread. Longer is better but I believe that square box ratio is achieved at ~8.5-9 turns. Less than that means high lateral forces have amplified and undesirable force and torque translation through the stud on a fracture plane. You can visualize this by imagining that say in an extreme scenario the lug nut only had one or two turns. That creates a very narrow 'slice plane' within the stud cylinder through which forces are applied versus a much larger cylinder where the forces are spread out so to speak over many turns. I may have that mixed up but that's how this was explained to me years ago and I think that's right AFAIR
 
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On the other Forum the wheel and tire Guru is this guy Mad Hungarian who is extremely knowledgeable and a great resource. I'm pretty sure he says eight turns is a functional minimum. What you're shooting for is essentially a square box around which the distance of thread capture is at least equal to the thickness of the stud captured by the thread. Longer is better but I believe that square box ratio is achieved at ~8.5-9 turns. Less than that means high lateral forces have amplified and undesirable force and torque translation through the stud on a fracture plane. You can visualize this by imagining that say in an extreme scenario the lug nut only had one or two turns. That creates a very narrow 'slice plane' within the stud cylinder through which forces are applied versus a much larger cylinder where the forces are spread out so to speak over many turns. I may have that mixed up but that's how this was explained to me years ago and I think that's right AFAIR

Spoke to him and read some of the posts he made. Said that 80% of the diameter in turns is enough, so 14*.8/1.5 = 7.5.

Also mentioned that a lot of oems dont follow this guideline either. Mercedes for example also uses 14x1.5 bolts and they only have around 6.5-7 turns, so if you can get around 7 turns that should be good enough.
 
Spoke to him and read some of the posts he made. Said that 80% of the diameter in turns is enough, so 14*.8/1.5 = 7.5.

Also mentioned that a lot of oems dont follow this guideline either. Mercedes for example also uses 14x1.5 bolts and they only have around 6.5-7 turns, so if you can get around 7 turns that should be good enough.
He knows his stuff so if that's what he says that sounds reasonable. But I can tell you that I'm glad that I've got 8 and 1/2 turns on mine
 
Not mine but a local guy on 20” signature wheels....inner wheel and tire clearance MM on point. Jamie knows fitment.
9BD590AF-3533-41F8-BDA7-998A56432C1B.jpeg
 
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The general rule of thumb I've always followed for thread engagement is 6 threads for effectively full strength and an absolute minimum of 3 threads for anything non-critical where tapped hole depth is non-existent.

This matches perfectly with the "7 threads" I've seen posted, which is probably to account for things such as the first 1-2 threads in a bolt typically being poorly formed.
 
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