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GPS: No data fault

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I came across a rear antenna that is made from china that is "under and in between" the dual fan in the rear in the 2.5 model; not sure if that has any baring on this situation. Should have taken a picture; when I came across it I was thinking about this post.
 
Progress but not out of the woods. The new Garmin came today and with all this social distancing, I was able to install. I wired it up by splicing into the existing connector. Note: if you do this there are two tiny black wires that are one one pin and a slightly larger black wire on a separate pin. They both measure ground. Anyway with the new unit spliced in and the GPS resting on the ground, the error immediately went away. I was ecstatic. It took about 5 minutes to find the direction and elevation so I thought I was home free. I then installed the unit and the error returned.

Bad wire/joint??? Possibly so I took it out and the wires seemed to check out.

Could I have damaged the GPS by screwing in the nut/post too far? Not sure, no visible damage but it is very hard to see inside that 2mm hole.

Does orientation count? There are 4 magnets on the bottom the GPS unit but connecting into a carbon fiber shelf not sure the orientation matters, and if it did would that just be the wrong direction?

I also tried to update firmware but could not connect. Again it looks like a bad wire, connector, or GPS.

So my plan now is to get some pins, and a plug from TE Connectivity and redo the end properly, no splicing into the existing plug. The plug is 794895-1 and the pins are 1-770985-0 or 1-770988-1. I had gotten the plug but not the pins.

I am just flustered that it worked outside the car but then I installed and it stopped working. I have not given up yet so will report back.
 
Feel free to open the box of my test cable if you would like to use a DVM or 'scope to look at the RX and TX wires while the sensor is in place and connected to the VMS. That might answer the questions about connection breaking. There is a pin header inside where you can connect the measurement tool.
 
Feel free to open the box of my test cable if you would like to use a DVM or 'scope to look at the RX and TX wires while the sensor is in place and connected to the VMS. That might answer the questions about connection breaking. There is a pin header inside where you can connect the measurement tool.
Thank you, unfortunately I now have much bigger problems. I think I messed things up bad. I tried to update the firmware and forgot to Inhibit the APS (auxiliary power system), and I was charging. I disconnected the VMS to update the firmware with no success. I then plugged in the VMS and I am getting a no communication error. The VDS will not allow me to go into technician mode, the doors and trunk will not operate and even after a 30 second VMS disconnect I am still hosed. The VDS and dash icon think I am charging, but I am not. I can't even get into my screens to enable tow mode. With some work I think I can get into the trunk and try to pull the disconnect plug. Any other thoughts?
 
Progress but not out of the woods. The new Garmin came today and with all this social distancing, I was able to install. I wired it up by splicing into the existing connector. Note: if you do this there are two tiny black wires that are one one pin and a slightly larger black wire on a separate pin. They both measure ground. Anyway with the new unit spliced in and the GPS resting on the ground, the error immediately went away. I was ecstatic. It took about 5 minutes to find the direction and elevation so I thought I was home free. I then installed the unit and the error returned.

Bad wire/joint??? Possibly so I took it out and the wires seemed to check out.

Could I have damaged the GPS by screwing in the nut/post too far? Not sure, no visible damage but it is very hard to see inside that 2mm hole.

Does orientation count? There are 4 magnets on the bottom the GPS unit but connecting into a carbon fiber shelf not sure the orientation matters, and if it did would that just be the wrong direction?

I also tried to update firmware but could not connect. Again it looks like a bad wire, connector, or GPS.

So my plan now is to get some pins, and a plug from TE Connectivity and redo the end properly, no splicing into the existing plug. The plug is 794895-1 and the pins are 1-770985-0 or 1-770988-1. I had gotten the plug but not the pins.

I am just flustered that it worked outside the car but then I installed and it stopped working. I have not given up yet so will report back.
Thank you, unfortunately I now have much bigger problems. I think I messed things up bad. I tried to update the firmware and forgot to Inhibit the APS (auxiliary power system), and I was charging. I disconnected the VMS to update the firmware with no success. I then plugged in the VMS and I am getting a no communication error. The VDS will not allow me to go into technician mode, the doors and trunk will not operate and even after a 30 second VMS disconnect I am still hosed. The VDS and dash icon think I am charging, but I am not. I can't even get into my screens to enable tow mode. With some work I think I can get into the trunk and try to pull the disconnect plug. Any other thoughts?

Call Gruberpower.com - They would have diagnosed this issue from your first post. I would see if they are still avail Jay Meagher can answer questions. See if you can talk to Peter or the son. 800 658-5883 X423
 
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Thank you, unfortunately I now have much bigger problems. I think I messed things up bad. I tried to update the firmware and forgot to Inhibit the APS (auxiliary power system), and I was charging. I disconnected the VMS to update the firmware with no success. I then plugged in the VMS and I am getting a no communication error. The VDS will not allow me to go into technician mode, the doors and trunk will not operate and even after a 30 second VMS disconnect I am still hosed. The VDS and dash icon think I am charging, but I am not. I can't even get into my screens to enable tow mode. With some work I think I can get into the trunk and try to pull the disconnect plug. Any other thoughts?
Yes, I have a few thoughts:
  • I unplugged the cables from the VMS, sometimes both and sometimes only one, several times as I was developing and testing the update cable. It was only near the end of that process that I learned to inhibit the APS first. So unplugging without inhibiting the APS is not fatal.
  • I also made a tactical error in unplugging the VMS while the charge port door was still open and showing a fault. That caused the VDS to say "Communication problem" (1900) and show no information in the other icons. On the dash the red plug icon was lit and in the charge port the white light was on even though the door is closed. I tried to enter diagnostic mode, but the VDS reported back that it couldn't complete that operation. I tried opening and closing the charge port door 10 times but that did not help. I had pulled the VMS connectors twice to try to correct this problem, but I had reconnected blue then black both times. Based on a comment from gregd about successfully having cleared a similar problem by resetting the VMS (he was unsure about the order), I decided to try reconnecting black first then blue. This did not immediately clear the problem, so I opened the trunk to see if I could see the battery disconnect, which I have not had need to see before. While looking (and not seeing it yet), I heard a couple of VDS beeps and saw that the communication problem had cleared so the icons were showing information again. So it was 2-3 minutes after the VMS reset before communication resumed.
  • It should be possible to open the trunk mechanically with the key in the lock even with no power.
 
Yes, I have a few thoughts:
  • I unplugged the cables from the VMS, sometimes both and sometimes only one, several times as I was developing and testing the update cable. It was only near the end of that process that I learned to inhibit the APS first. So unplugging without inhibiting the APS is not fatal.
  • I also made a tactical error in unplugging the VMS while the charge port door was still open and showing a fault. That caused the VDS to say "Communication problem" (1900) and show no information in the other icons. On the dash the red plug icon was lit and in the charge port the white light was on even though the door is closed. I tried to enter diagnostic mode, but the VDS reported back that it couldn't complete that operation. I tried opening and closing the charge port door 10 times but that did not help. I had pulled the VMS connectors twice to try to correct this problem, but I had reconnected blue then black both times. Based on a comment from gregd about successfully having cleared a similar problem by resetting the VMS (he was unsure about the order), I decided to try reconnecting black first then blue. This did not immediately clear the problem, so I opened the trunk to see if I could see the battery disconnect, which I have not had need to see before. While looking (and not seeing it yet), I heard a couple of VDS beeps and saw that the communication problem had cleared so the icons were showing information again. So it was 2-3 minutes after the VMS reset before communication resumed.
  • It should be possible to open the trunk mechanically with the key in the lock even with no power.
Steve you are a genius!! It worked. Yes my problem was just like your with the charge port light on and the red charging icon. I had the VMS unplugged overnight with no luck. But about a minute after plugging in the black plug the car came to life and I then plugged in the blue connector. So THANK YOU! And you are right about the trunk. I was flustered and was remembering the time I had been gone for several weeks to find my trunk latches frozen and I had to go through the wheel wells.
 
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Success!! It turned out to be a bad Garmin GPS unit I was able to buy from Garmin for $80. My secondary problem appeared to be a bent pin in the connector. I do not know how it was able to mate together and click if a pin was not mated. But after close inspection and a straightening of the pin I now have full GPS functionality. Again thanks to all the help and suggestions
 
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I guess its my turn. ID:53 GPS: No data fault

Roadster #241 reported this error today after sitting in my garage parked for the past 4 days. I suspect that the GPS unit has gone bad and not a cable wear or connector problem. The car was just sitting in my garage not moving or anything when I got the error. No error driving the car this past weekend and running errands on Monday. Now I turn on the car and see the GPS error.

I'm going to order the GPS 18X LVC from amazon and work on this car tomorrow morning. If it turns out its actually a connector or wiring problem, then I can always return the unopened GPS unit. Hopefully I'll have good news to report before the end of this long weekend.
 
I guess its my turn. ID:53 GPS: No data fault
Since there have been several reports of this symptom, it would be really interesting to know if the sensors are just dropping dead for some reason or if the sensor is still active to some degree but the car no longer likes the output for some reason. I agree that it seems unlikely to go from working to not-working while the car is stilling in the garage, but creeping corrosion and heat cycles might make such a scenario possible.
 
Since there have been several reports of this symptom, it would be really interesting to know if the sensors are just dropping dead for some reason or if the sensor is still active to some degree but the car no longer likes the output for some reason. I agree that it seems unlikely to go from working to not-working while the car is stilling in the garage, but creeping corrosion and heat cycles might make such a scenario possible.

my error cleared and hasn't returned so i'm sticking my head in the sand for the time being . . . :oops: