Hey folks, I have a 2016 MX P90DL. Recently, my driver side window has been making a loud rather bothersome grinding noise when trying to lower or raise the window. The window is able to auto lower when opening door and auto lift when closing door to place the window as designed into the molding as long of course the window is fully raised. However, when trying to lower the window I hear what seems to be something grinding inside. Eventually, the window lowers itself and when I try to raise the window I can't get it to raise without it sounding like the glass is being destroyed. Eventually, it fails to raise and eventually lowers itself again. I can't even get to the calibration steps because I can't leave the button pressed to raise it back up without stopping. I literally have to raise it holding to the raise button in half second intervals. Has anyone experience anything like this? I removed the panel thinking that something might be caught inside but to the naked eye I can't see anything that would be obvious and standing out. I believe it may be the regulator assembly or motor that is going bad. Not sure if this is common, I searched but couldn't find much info about it. Most I found was other members just needing to re-learn / calibrate the windows. I made an appointment for later this week at my SC. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Grinding Noise (Driver Side Front Window)
- Thread starter ByByGas
- Start date
Did you find a fix for this?
It's winter here in Minnesota, so I assumed I have some small ice chunks that have built up inside the door around the window track given the quick descent into sub 30F weather.
I mixed some rubbing alcohol and water, and squirted it on both sides of the glass, which did help get it moving better. I also did the same with some silicon spray, and it will generally open and close better, though sometimes I still have to fight to get it all the way up properly. It sounds better...for now.
It's winter here in Minnesota, so I assumed I have some small ice chunks that have built up inside the door around the window track given the quick descent into sub 30F weather.
I mixed some rubbing alcohol and water, and squirted it on both sides of the glass, which did help get it moving better. I also did the same with some silicon spray, and it will generally open and close better, though sometimes I still have to fight to get it all the way up properly. It sounds better...for now.
Video is gone, but I've had my regulator replaced for grinding sounds with slow moving and auto-reversing so many times on my driver window. The only way it is used more than the others is the door opens and closes much more, yet the others haven't needed it. I wonder if maybe those micro movements for opening and closing could be the culprit.
I'm still under ESA, and I've never had only the regulator fixed to find out whether it would fall below the deductible. Last time I had the regulator replaced, I also had a seat repaired, and that would presumably have been $125 based on a subsequent invoice for the other seat, but with ESA, that only implies the regulator replacement is more than $75.
I'm guessing it's one assembly and they just replace the whole thing. Doesn't seem likely to me that the regulator is actually the problem, just that it's the part based on which the assembly is named. I suppose it is also possible they bring multiple potential parts and then only use what's necessary.I'll find out...but not until the 30th because that's when Mobile Service anticipates having the parts. They seem to know (without looking) what's wrong.
