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Thx, it would be greatly appreciated if you can do a video on this because I didnt even do the original install.
There are a few install videos out there that show where the sense harness goes and connects to. You don't need a specific upgrade video. The V3 harness is a direct replacement of the V1 harness, with the exception that you don't correct the harness to the frunk interior button except for programming.

Or just get the new harness and drive over to my house. I'll swap it out for a reasonable price.
 
Update: I love the kick sensor. Here's my usage scenario. I'm headed to the car with stuff in my hands, and with my dog. So I open the front door, and the dog jumps in. I walk to the front of the car - engage the sensor - frunk opens. Put stuff in. Engage sensor again. Then hop in and drive. No longer do I have to either lean into the car to hit the frunk open button, or pull out my phone to use the app to sent frunk open.

The sensor is not initially intuitive. You have to put your foot under the sensor, wait, then kick up. This makes sense to me - it appears to reduce the number of false positives to zero. I just didn't understand what I needed to do to engage it in the beginning. Maybe I should have watched more YouTube videos.
 
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Update: I love the kick sensor. Here's my usage scenario. I'm headed to the car with stuff in my hands, and with my dog. So I open the front door, and the dog jumps in. I walk to the front of the car - engage the sensor - frunk opens. Put stuff in. Engage sensor again. Then hop in and drive. No longer do I have to either lean into the car to hit the frunk open button, or pull out my phone to use the app to sent frunk open.

The sensor is not initially intuitive. You have to put your foot under the sensor, wait, then kick up. This makes sense to me - it appears to reduce the number of false positives to zero. I just didn't understand what I needed to do to engage it in the beginning. Maybe I should have watched more YouTube videos.

Copy that! However you mentioned opening the door first (for your dog). Do you have to do that to ‘wake the car up’ for the foot sensor to be active or can you just walk up to the car and activate the foot sensor to open the Frunk? I.e I’m assuming the phone ‘unlocks/wakes’ the car as usual.

Ski
 
The foot sensor ties into the emergency frunk release. If the car is locked, when the kick sensor sends the signal the car ignores it. If the car is unlocked, it activates the frunk.

It would be cool if the sensor worked anytime the phone/fob was near the car. Unfortunately, I don't think there's any easy way to accomplish that.

BTW - Tesla could make it work the way we all want by reprogramming vcfront to enable frunk emergency release when phones are present, but car hasn't actually been opened, but why would they change vehicle programming to make a 3rd party accessory work better?

I guess well can all just hope a sympathetic Tesla employee reads this thread.....
 
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The foot sensor ties into the emergency frunk release. If the car is locked, when the kick sensor sends the signal the car ignores it. If the car is unlocked, it activates the frunk.

It would be cool if the sensor worked anytime the phone/fob was near the car. Unfortunately, I don't think there's any easy way to accomplish that.

BTW - Tesla could make it work the way we all want by reprogramming vcfront to enable frunk emergency release when phones are present, but car hasn't actually been opened, but why would they change vehicle programming to make a 3rd party accessory work better?

I guess well can all just hope a sympathetic Tesla employee reads this thread.....

Does "phone is nearby" show up on the CAN bus?

If so the foot sensor could simulate a press of the "I'm stuck inside the frunk, let me out" button. Surely that button still works when the car is locked since the whole point is to prevent someone from being locked inside the frunk.

But the foot sensor would need to monitor CAN to verify that the car is in park and that a phone is nearby to prevent unintended and unauthorized opening.
 
Does "phone is nearby" show up on the CAN bus?

If so the foot sensor could simulate a press of the "I'm stuck inside the frunk, let me out" button. Surely that button still works when the car is locked since the whole point is to prevent someone from being locked inside the frunk.

But the foot sensor would need to monitor CAN to verify that the car is in park and that a phone is nearby to prevent unintended and unauthorized opening.
The current foot sensor is not connected to the frunk controller at all. Behind the tow hook cover are two cables - one marked negative, one marked positive. The frunk controller connects to the positive wire. When the frunk sensor has been triggered it applies voltage to that input - which connects with VCFront. VCFront is programmed to pop the trunk when it gets a signal on this wire if a) 12V battery is dead, OR b) car is unlocked.

The signal wire from the frunk controller could probably be hooked to the front controller if it has a free input. The frunk controller has a CAN bus connector, but a lot of owners are understandably hesitant to connect 3rd party devices to the CAN bus. There is most likely a signal on the CAN bus that be intercepted, but it might be a huge effort. The security module might send a "authenticated_user_nearby" signal, which the frunk controller could monitor. Or, it might be setup where when the door sensor is tripped, vcright or vcleft interrogates the security module asking "Is there an authenticated user nearby?" Then the front controller would have to ask that question itself. Depending on the amount of security in the system it might be tricky. And might break from update to update.

I think we're better off finding out where the Tesla programmers go to drink, buy them a couple, and bring up the idea that VCFront should allow the emergency external frunk release when an authenticated phone is nearby instead of waiting for the full unlock sequence.....

Or live with it how it is. It's kinda like how you have to nudge the door handle before you can take the charge cord out in the morning. On the way to the frunk just hit the door handle and let it open slightly.
 
PSA - The new diy version does not route power under the panel shelf or require you to remove the panels near the airbag.

So I have the DIY V3 version of the rear trunk Hansshow kit, and was planning on following the Electrified Garage video on installing this. I'm guessing they had a slightly older version, as they had to run some wiring under the rear shelf and remove the C-pillar trim.

If that's not the case with the DIY version, where would you run/connect those cables that would be run under the rear shelf?

--Cintoman
 
So I have the DIY V3 version of the rear trunk Hansshow kit, and was planning on following the Electrified Garage video on installing this. I'm guessing they had a slightly older version, as they had to run some wiring under the rear shelf and remove the C-pillar trim.

If that's not the case with the DIY version, where would you run/connect those cables that would be run under the rear shelf?

--Cintoman
5503CF2C-F70A-4901-84CD-34804F410BA9.jpeg
 
Are instructions for that DIY version available online somewhere? And is that the version that is sent to everyone these days?

I reached out and just got the PDF version of the installation instructions. I was going to attach it here, but the file size is too large (20Mb). Not sure how to add it to this thread for everyone.

So @BoringMod it looks like we'll now have to run more wires thru the black rubber tube instead of just the wire to the power close button. IIRC, I thought that an earlier version of the kit had us run 3 sets of wires thru the tube. Then I think v3 had you run a set of wires underneath the rear shelf. Now it looks like this new version (v3 DIY) has you running the wires back into the trunk lid instead of underneath the rear shelf.

I'll have to take a look at my kit and take a look at the wiring.

--Cintoman
 
So is there just one kit, the 'V3', but you can install it in two different ways?

1. DIY where you have to run cables into the trunk lid (requiring a tricky fishing up the plastic conduit)
2. "non-DIY" where you run them under the backseat shelf (requiring a lot of internal trim removal)

Also, does anyone have any advice on whether the trunk power is best run all the way through the car to the frunk, versus wiring it underneath the rear seats like I saw one video show?
 
So is there just one kit, the 'V3', but you can install it in two different ways?

1. DIY where you have to run cables into the trunk lid (requiring a tricky fishing up the plastic conduit)
2. "non-DIY" where you run them under the backseat shelf (requiring a lot of internal trim removal)

Also, does anyone have any advice on whether the trunk power is best run all the way through the car to the frunk, versus wiring it underneath the rear seats like I saw one video show?

some people have reported that using the rear seats can cause issues as it goes into sleep mode preventing power to go to the kit. As such Hansshow recommends going All the way to the front for power.
 
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The current foot sensor is not connected to the frunk controller at all. Behind the tow hook cover are two cables - one marked negative, one marked positive. The frunk controller connects to the positive wire. When the frunk sensor has been triggered it applies voltage to that input - which connects with VCFront. VCFront is programmed to pop the trunk when it gets a signal on this wire if a) 12V battery is dead, OR b) car is unlocked.

The signal wire from the frunk controller could probably be hooked to the front controller if it has a free input. The frunk controller has a CAN bus connector, but a lot of owners are understandably hesitant to connect 3rd party devices to the CAN bus. There is most likely a signal on the CAN bus that be intercepted, but it might be a huge effort. The security module might send a "authenticated_user_nearby" signal, which the frunk controller could monitor. Or, it might be setup where when the door sensor is tripped, vcright or vcleft interrogates the security module asking "Is there an authenticated user nearby?" Then the front controller would have to ask that question itself. Depending on the amount of security in the system it might be tricky. And might break from update to update.

I think we're better off finding out where the Tesla programmers go to drink, buy them a couple, and bring up the idea that VCFront should allow the emergency external frunk release when an authenticated phone is nearby instead of waiting for the full unlock sequence.....

Or live with it how it is. It's kinda like how you have to nudge the door handle before you can take the charge cord out in the morning. On the way to the frunk just hit the door handle and let it open slightly.

@smatthew,

So now they have both a V1, V2 to V3 Frunk upgrade which I believe you installed and now a V1, V2, V3 to V4 upgrade. Does anyone know the particulars? I’m assuming that this V4 has the CANBUS plug in. Which is interesting because in the HansShow Trunk thread someone discusses the fact that HanSShow purported not having to patch into the CANBUS as an advantage over their competitors brand method. Which it appears they’ve since ditched due to ‘false signals‘? Anyone talked with HansShow on the reasoning, differences, particulars? I haven’t even pulled the trigger (was about to) on V3 Frunk upgrade and now there’s a V4. You can select which you want/prefer.....but no explanation on the differences/pros/cons.

Ski