Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Group Buy for Power Trunk/Frunk Liftgate!

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I tried to install the frunk myself and turned out to be nightmare with the uneven hood a week ago. Today, the installers came out to fix my frunk and install my trunk + foot sensor. Took them 10-15 mins to fix the frunk problem (had to adjust to almost every bolts attached to the hood due to the poor design of the car) and 2.50 hrs to install the trunk & foot sensor. At the end, it was worth to pay the installers to do the job.

What is your vehicle production month/year for reference? And did the installers note any pattern they see when it comes to vehicles that needed those adjustments?
 
Thanks. How much did you pay?

I paid $349 (trunk $299 and foot sensor $50).
Since I installed the frunk myself and took them less than 15 mins to resolve my hood problem, they didn't charge for the frunk support. (I thought they would whack me with $ on the frunk too).

Here are the quotes from the certified installers (again, these are Bay Area prices)
Frunk Installation: $269
Trunk Installation: $299
Frunk & Trunk Installation: $499
Foot sensor: $50
 
What is your vehicle production month/year for reference? And did the installers note any pattern they see when it comes to vehicles that needed those adjustments?

My build was June 2019. My frunk required a lot of loosen and tighten the bolts of the hinge to a certain angle. My trunk did not have problems at all since the gap between the strut and rear window have enough room for the strut to shift up & down on both side.

I asked the installers if the later build has problems with the Hansshow products. They said the production date isn't the problem. It's the quality of the assembly at the factory - they have seen issues with the older and newer builds. For example, they have seen misalignment of the trunk lean toward one side which give little or space for the Hansshow struts to move; they have seen trunk (when open) blocking the charge port door from opening; many others.

Of course, I don't think the installers track the build date of each M3 they serviced to draw an accurate conclusion. In my overall conclusion, Tesla has no quality control.
 
Has anyone got a Frunk installer recommendation in Chicago ? I installed but had the same taco/closing issues. I’m
Leary of opening up the mounting holes myself given the permanency of the solution. I bought this because it was plug and play, and file and grind.
7/19 build date
 
I paid $349 (trunk $299 and foot sensor $50).
Since I installed the frunk myself and took them less than 15 mins to resolve my hood problem, they didn't charge for the frunk support. (I thought they would whack me with $ on the frunk too).

Hmm, I should install everything myself and finish it right before they arrive, then let them know please review my work and just do adjustments. :D
 
  • Funny
Reactions: OmegaZ
MAJOR ISSUE WITH FRUNK KIT

For those of you whose frunk doesn't close all the way--I filed the screw holes on the strut brackets so I could move the bracket forward so the frunk could close all the way. All started out good until I had to calibrate the hood. First it would close and latch all the way, but wouldn't open. I could hear the latch unlock, but the hood didn't go up. So I lifted the hood to help it, but it wouldn't open. So I manually opened the hood and then tried to close it. I'm not exactly sure how/when it happened, but during the process of trying to get the hood to open and close and synced properly, there was a point where the hood was closed and didn't open and when i used the app to try and open it, it seems as if it was trying to close. Apparently, it pulled so hard to close that it pulled my hood into my windshield cracking my windshield! I was so pissed! Contacted Hansshow and requested a refund and cost to replace my windshield as I thought it doesn't pull hard enough to damage anything (like a hand caught in the frunk). I am totally sick about this as my car is only a month old. So be extra careful as it could result in major damage to your car!

Edit: So in thinking how my windshield could have cracked, I think when it was trying to close when the hood was already closed somehow moved or bent the hood hinges, because when the hood did open, it was closer to the windshield and broke the windshield when it opened fully. I've attached the factory struts again and the hood at the windshield is now below the level of the side fenders and the front gap at the front of the car to the bumper is twice as big as it was before.View attachment 472665View attachment 472666View attachment 472667View attachment 472668View attachment 472669View attachment 472670

There is absolutely no way that my powered struts have anywhere near that amount of closing force.

Lastly...The powered struts WON'T change the travel path of the frunk.

If your frunk mounts are bent...etc....it certainty wasn't the struts.
 
Has anyone got a Frunk installer recommendation in Chicago ? I installed but had the same taco/closing issues. I’m
Leary of opening up the mounting holes myself given the permanency of the solution. I bought this because it was plug and play, and file and grind.
7/19 build date


I can help/assist you.

I have installed about 4 sets of the trunk/frunk combinations ( 5 including my own ). , however I'm only in the "help you install" mode right now.

 
  • Like
Reactions: William_Chan
Finally got around to installing the frunk kit today. The trunk kit with the foot sensor will be installed another day. The model 3 is a January 2018 build, delivered in February 2018.

The install went fine, although I had to use my head to keep the frunk open when removing the original struts because the frunk was too heavy to stay open with only one original strut in place.

I wrapped the speaker with some of the white styrofoam from the kit box to muffle the speaker and mounted it on top of the controller. This way the speaker is very quiet yet accessible by removing only the rear shroud cover.

I have a problem with the operation. The frunk goes up fine. But closing is a problem. The frunk will lower but it stops about 1 inch from the full closed position. It is as if the latch does not pull the frunk down. If I assist it by hand, the frunk closes without resistance and is flush with the fenders, just as it was before doing the install.

I don’t hear any sound from the latch motor pulling down the frunk. Should I hear something or is it a very quiet motor? I’m asking so I know whether or not I need to remove the tub to check that the motor connector is completely plugged in.

Or is my problem related to needing to adjust the pull cable or raise/lower the whole latch mechanism?

Thanks.
 
Finally got around to installing the frunk kit today. The trunk kit with the foot sensor will be installed another day. The model 3 is a January 2018 build, delivered in February 2018.

The install went fine, although I had to use my head to keep the frunk open when removing the original struts because the frunk was too heavy to stay open with only one original strut in place.

I wrapped the speaker with some of the white styrofoam from the kit box to muffle the speaker and mounted it on top of the controller. This way the speaker is very quiet yet accessible by removing only the rear shroud cover.

I have a problem with the operation. The frunk goes up fine. But closing is a problem. The frunk will lower but it stops about 1 inch from the full closed position. It is as if the latch does not pull the frunk down. If I assist it by hand, the frunk closes without resistance and is flush with the fenders, just as it was before doing the install.

I don’t hear any sound from the latch motor pulling down the frunk. Should I hear something or is it a very quiet motor? I’m asking so I know whether or not I need to remove the tub to check that the motor connector is completely plugged in.

Or is my problem related to needing to adjust the pull cable or raise/lower the whole latch mechanism?

Thanks.

When I installed the frunk myself, I have a similar problem - the latch doesn't seem to pull the hook down. Here is my post on Youtube.

If the closing of the frunk is similar to mine, you'll need to adjust the two nuts in the photo circled in yellow. That's what the installers did when they came out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1497.jpg
    IMG_1497.jpg
    295.6 KB · Views: 118
I tried adjusting the nuts (adjustment 1 in the Hansshow install video) and also moving the whole mechanism up and down (adjustment 2 in the Hansshow install video). No effect.

I also took a screwdriver and pushed it in the latch to simulate the closing of the frunk. I noticed that the pull cable from the Hansshow installed motor does not move.

I noticed from your video that a distinctive noise is produced toward the end of the travel of the closing of the frunk (as if the latch is trying to pull down the frunk). I don’t get that sound on mine. I guess I’ll pull out the tub tomorrow and double check that the connectors are fully inserted. Any other suggestions?

I’ll also text Hansshow and see what they say.

Thanks.
 
I tried adjusting the nuts (adjustment 1 in the Hansshow install video) and also moving the whole mechanism up and down (adjustment 2 in the Hansshow install video). No effect.

I also took a screwdriver and pushed it in the latch to simulate the closing of the frunk. I noticed that the pull cable from the Hansshow installed motor does not move.

I noticed from your video that a distinctive noise is produced toward the end of the travel of the closing of the frunk (as if the latch is trying to pull down the frunk). I don’t get that sound on mine. I guess I’ll pull out the tub tomorrow and double check that the connectors are fully inserted. Any other suggestions?

I’ll also text Hansshow and see what they say.

Thanks.


All your questions are on this post, look at the post and you shall find your answers.
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: silentcorp
Further update.

I removed the tub and noticed that the wire harness from the soft close motor was not plugged into the control module. My mistake.

However, my wire harness from the soft close motor only has one gray connector. The Hansshow install video shows 2 gray connectors (a large connector and a small connector) that plug into the 2 gray ports on the controller module. I have the larger gray connector only. It seems to work fine now, but I have texted Hansshow to determine if this is a design change or if I am missing the second connector on my wire cable from the soft close motor.

I’ll reinstall the tub tomorrow after hearing back from Hansshow and confirm that the frunk is still flush with the fenders.
 
All your questions are on this post, look at the post and you shall find your answers.

I had read all the posts in this thread but my issue (soft close motor not working because connector(s) not plugged in) is not in there. Further, I don’t recall there being any discussion of the soft close motor wiring harness having just 1 gray connector while the control module has 2 gray ports and the Hansshow install video shows 2 gray connectors. But thank you for the suggestion.
 
Has anyone got a Frunk installer recommendation in Chicago ? I installed but had the same taco/closing issues. I’m
Leary of opening up the mounting holes myself given the permanency of the solution. I bought this because it was plug and play, and file and grind.
7/19 build date
I had to mod the hood brackets on mine when I installed it. Only needed to give it about 1mm of extra movement upwards, took 30 seconds with a dremel. You can’t see the holes once you refit the brackets to the hood, but I touched them up with black paint anyway.

The trick to getting the fitment right is to remove the hook from the hood so that you can open and close it fully without the latch engaging while testing.
 
There is absolutely no way that my powered struts have anywhere near that amount of closing force.

Lastly...The powered struts WON'T change the travel path of the frunk.

If your frunk mounts are bent...etc....it certainty wasn't the struts.

It's not from the closing force.. the opening force while the hood is still latched is likely to be the cause. If the hood hinges were not sufficiently tightened, or got bent from the force of attempting to open multiple times with the hood still latched it might explain it. Remember those hinges were engineered to resist the compressive force of the gas struts with the hood closed, not a high torque linear actuator between them and an immovable hood.
 
It’s very difficult to get any assistance from Hansshow. I have asked them 4 times why my soft close motor for the frunk kit has only 1 gray connector to plug into the controller module, when the Hansshow installation video shows the frunk soft close motor having 2 gray connectors, and the frunk controller module has 2 gray ports for plugging in 2 connectors. I can’t get an answer from them. I just sent them a video showing I only have 1 gray connector. Hopefully they will now understand.