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in the trunk package

Which item in the trunk package below is the foot kick sensor? thanks....


hansshow trunk package content.jpg
 
I just completed installing the Hansshow v3 trunk lift gate. It was not an easy install because there are differences from the v2 videos. Like the earlier post, I was worried that I was interpreting the install instructions regarding removing the passenger side interior panels to get to the Trunk Signal cable/adapter. It turned out that the three panels are required to be removed to lift up the rear flat panel to reach the signal wire, which is right next to the rear passenger speaker. The top longer panel (where the side airbag is) was difficult to remove due to its method of attachment. If you look from inside the trunk, you’ll see the white plastic clip next to the speaker that the wire is attached to and it can be unlatched and pushed up so it’s easier to reach from the rear passenger seat. I don’t have time to write up all the differences between v2 and v3 at the moment, but I also ran into so buggy situations with the system, but managed to figure out how it works.

Just quickly tho, you do not remove the two black plastic bumper tabs on the trunk lid like in v2. The interior trunk lights are constantly on when trunk is opened. Even on the lowest power setting, my trunk seems to open with excessive force.
 
I just completed installing the Hansshow v3 trunk lift gate. It was not an easy install because there are differences from the v2 videos. Like the earlier post, I was worried that I was interpreting the install instructions regarding removing the passenger side interior panels to get to the Trunk Signal cable/adapter. It turned out that the three panels are required to be removed to lift up the rear flat panel to reach the signal wire, which is right next to the rear passenger speaker. The top longer panel (where the side airbag is) was difficult to remove due to its method of attachment. If you look from inside the trunk, you’ll see the white plastic clip next to the speaker that the wire is attached to and it can be unlatched and pushed up so it’s easier to reach from the rear passenger seat. I don’t have time to write up all the differences between v2 and v3 at the moment, but I also ran into so buggy situations with the system, but managed to figure out how it works.

Just quickly tho, you do not remove the two black plastic bumper tabs on the trunk lid like in v2. The interior trunk lights are constantly on when trunk is opened. Even on the lowest power setting, my trunk seems to open with excessive force.

Thank you for confirming my concerns. I didn't mess too much with the trim for the side airbag because of how it was attached to the airbag itself. I think I'll wait until there are more detailed instructions online.
 
This might put you guys at ease, it seems that a gentle prying all the way should allow to take the side cover pretty easily; I am going to install mine tomorrow so I can tape it.

This one is the front panel:

and this fellow basically explains that the back panel comes out the same way:


I'll try to record my installation and post it to YouTube tomorrow.

hope this helps.
 
I'm debating on getting the Hansshow version and Tesla offer one.
The Hansshow one doesn't tell you the current status of the Trunk correct, from either the App or the Screen?

Is there a groupbuy on these any time soon?

Are there any current installers in Socal?

Thanks!

I will have another code coming soon. If you want PM me so I will send it to you. No need for group buy
 
I finally finished install of the Hannshow trunk kit. Left the foot sensor for later. The most annoying part of the install is indeed the fishing through the rubber hose. I just snipped wires as needed and soldered together because I didn’t want to slice open the rubber conduit..

Couple of thoughts on operation:

1) Would love for it not to slam at the end of the closing motion but I don’t know if anything can be done about that.

2) The trunk doesn’t quite open to the maximum height of the strut travel (has another inch of travel). Following the height adjustment procedure doesn’t change anything. It would be nice to open as high as possible as the new height with this kit is considerably lower than the stock struts, and its easier to hit one’s head on the lid.

contact Hansshow they gave me a firmware update, really easy to do. It fixed the all the way up problem I had. As for the slamming, did you try adjusting the power adjustments?
 
Thank you for confirming my concerns. I didn't mess too much with the trim for the side airbag because of how it was attached to the airbag itself. I think I'll wait until there are more detailed instructions online.


I have installed today and the install took 3h total. It's pretty simple altogether I'd say that the trickiest part is to find the connector under the rear trim. Removing the side rear top trim (which hides the airbag but is not attached to it whatsoever) is easy - pry starting at the B pillar side and pull away, takes 30 seconds - I actually found much harder to place them back in, there is little visibility and it's tight - overall take your time and it's easy to get it done. The installation explanations are very poor, what helped me the most is the wiring diagram at the end; finally I love that there is only a small wire to fish through to get the button installed, got some electrical lube at home depot and there it was.

Good luck and if you have any questions do ask, mainly I watched a lot of V2 videos which I'd say get you 80% there with the 20% left being the removal of trims at the back of the car to find the power signal...
 
I have installed today and the install took 3h total. It's pretty simple altogether I'd say that the trickiest part is to find the connector under the rear trim. Removing the side rear top trim (which hides the airbag but is not attached to it whatsoever) is easy - pry starting at the B pillar side and pull away, takes 30 seconds - I actually found much harder to place them back in, there is little visibility and it's tight - overall take your time and it's easy to get it done. The installation explanations are very poor, what helped me the most is the wiring diagram at the end; finally I love that there is only a small wire to fish through to get the button installed, got some electrical lube at home depot and there it was.

Good luck and if you have any questions do ask, mainly I watched a lot of V2 videos which I'd say get you 80% there with the 20% left being the removal of trims at the back of the car to find the power signal...

Thanks, perhaps I'll try to give it another try this weekend. I have a few questions which I'll use the installation instructions for reference:

1) on step 10, I don't recall my car having a river gromit. Is this necessary? Is it included in the package?

2) on step 14 and 16, is this the trim that's directly behind the 2nd row seats? How do I remove the trim? I only see the two retainers that are behind the actual seats.

3) on step 21, does the B+ wire still go to the battery that's behind the trunk? The instructions makes it look like I have to mess with the wires in front of the passenger seat.
 
Like the earlier post, I was worried that I was interpreting the install instructions regarding removing the passenger side interior panels to get to the Trunk Signal cable/adapter. It turned out that the three panels are required to be removed to lift up the rear flat panel to reach the signal wire, which is right next to the rear passenger speaker.

Thanks for highlighting this. Anyone know if the trunk signal cable is accessible elsewhere eg near the trunk latch... where we could splice to it without messing with the rear trim panels?
 
Thanks, perhaps I'll try to give it another try this weekend. I have a few questions which I'll use the installation instructions for reference:

1) on step 10, I don't recall my car having a river gromit. Is this necessary? Is it included in the package?

2) on step 14 and 16, is this the trim that's directly behind the 2nd row seats? How do I remove the trim? I only see the two retainers that are behind the actual seats.

3) on step 21, does the B+ wire still go to the battery that's behind the trunk? The instructions makes it look like I have to mess with the wires in front of the passenger seat.


1) I didn't wire this way I went through the taillights because their instructions force you to drop the bumper. Removing the tail lights is very easy and fast. The grommets are there however, at least on mine.

2) yes it is the big flat trim that lays horizontal with the speakers; you need to take out the trims on the sides as highlighted on step 15 on BOTH sides of the car; they there are 2 little plastic clips to remove on the trim itself, then its a matter of pulling towards you with enough force, I didn't take mine out I only loosened it enough to allow my arm to go under and make the connection.

3) the power cable needs to run all the way to the 12V battery in the FRUNK, super easy up to the point where you are on. the passenger foot well, then there is a big grommet close to the center console behind the mats where 2 orange Tesla cables are coming through already, you need to drill a hole in that large grommet (it's 3"~) and fish the power cable through; you'll see it appear on the FRUNK side and the connection to the battery is super simple. Again there is a couple videos on YouTube showing how to do this; you do not mess with any of the existing cables.

Hope this helps.
 
1) I didn't wire this way I went through the taillights because their instructions force you to drop the bumper. Removing the tail lights is very easy and fast. The grommets are there however, at least on mine.

2) yes it is the big flat trim that lays horizontal with the speakers; you need to take out the trims on the sides as highlighted on step 15 on BOTH sides of the car; they there are 2 little plastic clips to remove on the trim itself, then its a matter of pulling towards you with enough force, I didn't take mine out I only loosened it enough to allow my arm to go under and make the connection.

3) the power cable needs to run all the way to the 12V battery in the FRUNK, super easy up to the point where you are on. the passenger foot well, then there is a big grommet close to the center console behind the mats where 2 orange Tesla cables are coming through already, you need to drill a hole in that large grommet (it's 3"~) and fish the power cable through; you'll see it appear on the FRUNK side and the connection to the battery is super simple. Again there is a couple videos on YouTube showing how to do this; you do not mess with any of the existing cables.

Hope this helps.
3) You can also connect the 12V here without having to drill a hole.
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B}4{W6ZCQ`R%VW2EVDSQ(1H.png
 
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Thanks, perhaps I'll try to give it another try this weekend. I have a few questions which I'll use the installation instructions for reference:

1) on step 10, I don't recall my car having a river gromit. Is this necessary? Is it included in the package?

2) on step 14 and 16, is this the trim that's directly behind the 2nd row seats? How do I remove the trim? I only see the two retainers that are behind the actual seats.

3) on step 21, does the B+ wire still go to the battery that's behind the trunk? The instructions makes it look like I have to mess with the wires in front of the passenger seat.


1) I did route both struts through the blue rubber gromits listed in the instructions. I did not remove the entire bumper, but rather just the part underneath the taillights. I fished the strut cables through the gromit holes, which was quite challenging, but I was not satisfied with the wire going through the tail light plug hole because it appeared to be pinching the strut cable. Then I drilled holes through the rubber gromits to pass the wires through. I left a little bit of the excess wire hanging so that if any water drips down the wire, it will not come into the trunk area.

2) Yes, there are 3 pieces of trim to be removed. The two darker colored plastic trim pieces can just be pulled off just like most of the other pieces. The lighter colored cloth trim can also be pulled off, but is also attached by two flexible rubber attachments after you initially pull off the trim. Once removed, I pushed out the black plastic tabs holding the top flat trim to the back car panel so I could lift up the right side just enough to reach the signal plug. I did not remove the 3 trim pieces from the left side, just the right side, and was able to access the plug.

3) Apparently you can use the B+ wire from the photo, but because I’ve seen other videos showing drilling a small hole and routing the power wire through the rubber gromit from the passenger side footwell, I went that route. That and because I had just installed the power frunk, I decided to route the power straight to the battery.
 
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Finished the Frunk install, glad I didn't join the group-buy and got it for $389 instead. It was super easy w/ the Frugal Tesla Guy's video. I HATE pressing the hood down with two hands. A friend used a lighter duty replacement spring to make the hood easier to deal with and then one day in the cold the hood wouldn't raise enough to get a finger in. The Hansshow seems like it will be a bulletproof solution to make my Frunk make me happy.