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Group buy for the 4k Blackvue Dashcam?

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Did you need any additional hardware to connect it to mic panel?

You want to read the Teslatap link provided by Akikiki's post above. Instead of using the "TE part 3-968696-2 along with two crimp pins 1-928918-1" mentioned above, I used the Startech 4-Pin Fan connector FAN4EXT12. Cut off unneeded black and yellow lines (your 12v auxiliary power connector may vary). Also, I don't want to cut the cigarette lighter charging cable that comes with the Blackvue (in case I want to sell the dash cams later). Instead, I bought a 3.5mm plug from Amazon (cost $8.02) and it works just fine. Another important thing that is differ than the Teslatap way is I added a 5A fuse along the 12v hotwire for protection.
 
You want to read the Teslatap link provided by Akikiki's post above. Instead of using the "TE part 3-968696-2 along with two crimp pins 1-928918-1" mentioned above, I used the Startech 4-Pin Fan connector FAN4EXT12. Cut off unneeded black and yellow lines (your 12v auxiliary power connector may vary). Also, I don't want to cut the cigarette lighter charging cable that comes with the Blackvue (in case I want to sell the dash cams later). Instead, I bought a 3.5mm plug from Amazon (cost $8.02) and it works just fine. Another important thing that is differ than the Teslatap way is I added a 5A fuse along the 12v hotwire for protection.
And the factory front-2-rear cam cable is too long. I picked up a 20 foot on Amazon and didn't use the factory one. Later, when I sold my S and bought a new one, I removed the Blackvue, left all the cables and bought new cables. The new owner was delighted that all he had to do was buy a Blackvue and the all the wiring was already there. It was less effort and cleaner to leave the cables in the older S than remove them.
 
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You want to read the Teslatap link provided by Akikiki's post above. Instead of using the "TE part 3-968696-2 along with two crimp pins 1-928918-1" mentioned above, I used the Startech 4-Pin Fan connector FAN4EXT12. Cut off unneeded black and yellow lines (your 12v auxiliary power connector may vary). Also, I don't want to cut the cigarette lighter charging cable that comes with the Blackvue (in case I want to sell the dash cams later). Instead, I bought a 3.5mm plug from Amazon (cost $8.02) and it works just fine. Another important thing that is differ than the Teslatap way is I added a 5A fuse along the 12v hotwire for protection.
bayarea_Joe, I first tried the Startech connectors. Bought several of them. I didn't like their fit into the Tesla connector. It kept pushing itself back out. Even taped it. My OCD keeps me up at night looking for the OEM like stuff so I can make my car look like stuff came from the factory. :)
 
bayarea_Joe, I first tried the Startech connectors. Bought several of them. I didn't like their fit into the Tesla connector. It kept pushing itself back out. Even taped it. My OCD keeps me up at night looking for the OEM like stuff so I can make my car look like stuff came from the factory. :)

You have to make sure those 4 male pins are straightly aligned. It didn't work at first try but once I figured it out, the connection between the two cables is very solid. I even had a bunch of weight dangling down while testing it.

I just found out earlier that the blackvue Wi-Fi will always be on if you enable the cloud service. It consumes quite a bit of power (roughly 2 miles worth of charge over 3 hrs - the car was in park mode in the garage). Unless you are plugging in at home, I wouldn't suggest anyone turning it on.
 
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You have to make sure those 4 male pins are straightly aligned. It didn't work at first try but once I figured it out, the connection between the two cables is very solid. I even had a bunch of weight dangling down while testing it.

I just found out earlier that the blackvue Wi-Fi will always be on if you enable the cloud service. It consumes quite a bit of power (roughly 2 miles worth of charge over 3 hrs - the car was in park mode in the garage). Unless you are plugging in at home, I wouldn't suggest anyone turning it on.
bayeara_Joe, I did. I even trimmed the sides, cut the extra pin off. Had several to play with.

Good point about the wifi/cloud. There's going to be situations where people need to keep an eye on their cars - at home. But the Blackvue cloud feature may not be the best solution for everyone. (My S is in a closed garage, foruntately). Cloud service can get expensive and if its using a hotspot for the step between wifi and cloud, can get expensive there too. Might be practical for some folks to look at a wireless wifi camera that looks out at the car and stores video/pictures in a different cloud. Just my 2 cents. Not trying to start a debate.
 
It consumes quite a bit of power (roughly 2 miles worth of charge over 3 hrs

I have 650s Dual and it runs off of a 12.8 V / 3000 mAh / 38.4 W battery for 11+ hours with WIFI and a Portable hotspot plugged in VIA USB - 2 miles over 3 hours seems very doubtful

(Blackvue B112)

Cloud service can get expensive

I go through about 1gb a month, Even with the world's most expensive data (Australia) it does not cost that much to run.
 
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I have 650s Dual and it runs off of a 12.8 V / 3000 mAh / 38.4 W battery for 11+ hours with WIFI and a Portable hotspot plugged in VIA USB - 2 miles over 3 hours seems very doubtful

(Blackvue B112)
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Not sure it's an apple to apple comparison. Unlike the 650, the DR900S-2CH broadcasts 5GHz and 2.4GHz signals. I might have left my cellphone connected to the blackvue (5GHz wifi) the entire time. I am not using an external battery. The "power" drop was strictly the reading off my Tesla app.
 
Thanks for the helpful information guys. So many people go into these installs intimidated when it’s really a straight forward thing. Take your time and it will come out nice.

Now I am still waiting on 2 more cameras so I can get batches out. Anyone that’s been following interested in placing an order. We will probably take a break for a bit as demand seems to have died down and it’s not fair to hold orders hostage for weeks at a time while waiting to meet the minimum quota.
 
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I have seen other folks that mount theirs like I do - forward and above the rear view mirror. There the front camera disappears from driver view, - niceeee. From that location, rotating the camera will not align it proper to see the driver/passenger (the back of the rear view mirror is in the way). And I believe if you lower it so they are in view, the camera will be in your line of sight across the left to right fender corner. Just my thoughts. You might need to mount it to the right and even with of the rear view mirror mount so it clears the mirror. I guess you could hold it in place and "talk" to it to record where you have it and place those videos back before you permanently mount it to find a suitable location. (The sticky tape really should not be reused.) Rotating will also cause the image to be upside down. But forunately, you can flip the image with the firmware.
 
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I can start another one right away. The issue is we need that minimum of 20. So long as people go into it with the expectations it could be a 2-3 weeks to reach that point then I am find collecting more orders. I just don’t want people thinking I am sitting on their money or something shady.
 
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I can start another one right away. The issue is we need that minimum of 20. So long as people go into it with the expectations it could be a 2-3 weeks to reach that point then I am find collecting more orders. I just don’t want people thinking I am sitting on their money or something shady.
Is there still time to get in on the order that just occurred?
 
Sorry the wire transfer went out a few hours ago. It typically takes 2-3 weeks to get enough orders so you wouldn’t be waiting that long and the pricing is better than anyone else out there. It’s worth the wait as others can attest to.